iconic558

Martin, I think you nailed it, I just fitted another lever assembly, one of those 3 position jobs and the cable was now the correct length....could not use it though as the nipple is for 8mm and buggered it drilling it out to suit the larger cable nippled of your clutch cable I believe the perchs are those cheap £15 a pair jobs, been fine to be honest, but not suitable for my needs. A year ago I thought about Domino perchs, may take the plunge now. Cheers as always guys, for the help and assistance. PS I thought you were in Italy today Martin, soaking up Spritz's, Bellini's and Lemon Cello's?

Just been comparing cables and the Venhill has a 7mm nipple and Martin's has a 9.5mm nipple...both are which are correct depending on what lever are used I guess? Martins inner looks the beefier of the two cables I will add and I think I will modify my lever's to suit.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Solderless-Nipples-6mm-Motorcycle-Scooter-Quad-Car-Throttle-Choke-Decompressor-/190931066950?hash=item2c7460e046:g:E48AAOxyg7xSW9tG solderless nipple....nice design but a touch pricey I thought?

Depth of clutch cover cable entry hole is 14mm....so that can't the problem if I'm looking for 20mm

I'm just getting my head in a fizz here.... ....would an incorrect cable route cause this problem?...it can't do can it?...no matter what the route the cables relationship to the inner and outer is the same and wouldn't effect the cable inners length...?

thanks for the reply. The clutch cable that came with the bike is a Venhill, the new replacement that I have had for over a year, now as a spare, is from Martin @ SWM Moto...which makes me think that something somewhere isn't right with my bike....but what I don't know? When I rebuilt Speedy a couple of years ago, I had to raise the 'outer cable' out of the 'clutch-cover-cable-entry-hole' by some 10mm by inserting a fitting I made up. This meant I now had some spare adjustment left at the clutch lever perch.....if that makes sense? So thinking about things my cable out is around 20mm too long on both cables. The clutch actuating arm is fine (not breaking/broken) as are the rest of the mechanicals in there....it's as if the cable entry hole in the clutch cover is simply too deep.......

Maybe I need this sort of thing? I remember a trial on Speedy when the front brake cable broke a nipple at the perch end after only 10 hours use.....caused an expensive & frustrating DNF http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Throttle-Clutch-Cable-Repair-Kit-Motorcycle-MX-Off-Road-Motorbike-/331632590360?hash=item4d36d7be18:g:EFUAAOSwgQ9V1Glj

I've never made or altered cable, something I should be doing I think. ....solderless cable nipple or solder type which is best? ...will a normal electrical soldering iron be OK or is something more heavyweight needed? Is it simply a case of cutting the cable at the perch end, then fitting the new cable and hey presto? as always, many thanks guys

The actuator adjustment is not a problem....is this slack in the cable.two cables same issue....strange.

cheers guys, I've given up for today, the new cable is still too long...not overall length but too much free inner cable. I don't have enough adjustment at the clutch perch to take out the slack....I'm wondering if I have something missing at the clutch cover end? My cable sits deep in the cover with no other fittings....should the be another adjuster at the clutch cover end?

Hi guys, just a quick hi, not been around for a while....my fleet of Gixers, other roadbikes, new to me Firestorm, track day car & my love of track days at Snetterton has kept me busy from realising my dream as a World Trials 'Chump'. OK, I dug Speedy out of her hibernation and couldn't free off the clutch, no matter what I did. Next weekend tried again and finally got her to free off but with terrible clutch drag. So yesterday (these things take time!) I stripped the clutch down and my gearbox oil was contaminated with water (again) looking for all purposes like she had done a head gasket - as if watercooled - she was that bad. Seems to be a recurring theme with the old girl I can only assume water is getting in past the clutch cable entry point. I have been using 10/40 engine with good results....gave me less drag than ATF....which seems counter intuitive? I have always had a problem with too much slack in the clutch cable, to the point that I had run out of adjustment at the clutch perch. I have a cable from Martin ready to fit so hopefully this will be OK now? Her last owner has done the clutch actuating arm mod...extending it....she also runs all the springs and has never had a heavy clutch. I have roughed up the steel plates on a machine mounted rotary wire brush then further roughed them up with 80 grit. It has occured to me why trials bikes don't use MX style steels whereby the surface has oodles of indents to stop the 'sticking' action. I seem to remember changing out the steels on my Montesa 315R to MX CR 125 ones and this cured the sticky clutch on that old barge. Maybe I should spend an afternoon in front on the TV with my 'Snide Stick' watching old Minder's with a centre punch stamping hundreds of little holes in the steels, but then I suppose they would dressing by a surface grinder to take the high spots off...? I've rough up (gently) the friction plates and cleaned up the oil drain slots. I'm just about to dive into the actuator assembly itself, any tips on what to do or look for here...I hear and read of owners exchanging views about the size their balls & don't wish to feel erm....undersized

many thanks for the link

My TY175 owning friend needs a side stand bracket....the one that is welded to the swinging arm. He tells someone was making them new a while back but I can't find any on the web....can anyone help? man thanks

.....I should add my own Speedy has powder coated engine parts and so does my friends TY-175.

Powder coat is ya answer, that new PJ engine paint has all the fuel resistant properties of a kids water based paint. My local powder coaters have done lots of mag' parts...also they do a super shiney finish like polished ali if thats ya bag.

Saw my first italjet today in the flesh today....damn those bikes are good looking, she was a recent resto'. Black engine model white tank 1984 ish....great to finally see one in captivity

Spooky, just been thinking i may strip the left side down tomorrow to see what i have as regards flywheel weight and clutch guts.....scales on their way!

Fixed.....source coil had broken down under load, rewound by West Country Windings in Essex £48 with post, sent Wednesday, back Tuesday, great service.

this is odd... ignition coil OK capacitor OK 30 volts AC output from source coil when kicking her over when checked from source coil wire to ground, but this voltage disappears when 'loaded'...as in when the source coil feed is connected to the ignition coil? I had a similar problem on a non running Nissan Primera last year, turned out to be a corroded wire, similar symptoms, I had volts (DC) 'unloaded' but the wire wasn't carrying a decent enough current and when 'loaded' the volts dropped right off...could be a similar issue I guess... ....puller is here so may have to pull the flywheel afterall

Good news... my bike came with a receipt for a new Dellorto, I was surprised how very reasonable the price was compared to, for example one new carb for a 1992 Suzuki GSXR750 of which they made hundreds of thousands Mikuni BST's

Not light by todays featherlight standards, but lightest in class in its day.....or so I thought

Just bought a puller kit, will come in handy for other things! not my ignition week....wifes Beemer's done 2 coil packs today! They are ganging up on me!

Well that's just my luck, fitted my new coil after testing its resistances and all was well, the old coil had a very high resistance on the primary side and a little high on the secondary. So full of joy I looked for a spark, no joy So I checked the AC output from the magneto (alternator) and nothing at all now. Condenser as well....? Checked for broken wires and bad engine to frame earth all is well. Checked the condenser using two methods: 1/ resistance, checking on ohms for a around 20 seconds using the meter to inject volts (current), then checked for a DC voltage...nothing... 2/ 12 volt battery on the condenser terminals for 20 seconds, then connected condenser earth to positive to check for a spark, nothing... I tried to run without the condenser fitted and still nothing....I've run car engines with 12 volt DC without a condenser, big sparks across the points but get you home, but my understanding is that the AC alternator magneto will not run at all without a condenser in the circuit. So, VW condenser ordered. more to follow....if nothing else I've learnt that I thought I understood 'magneto ignitions' but didn't after all cheers guys

ya so right....fixed that

Cheers for that