iconic558

wow, thanks guys, I'll give that a go... ...in 40 years of working around engines I've never had one go down so I'll be pleased if it is, I can join the 'bad condenser' club after all these years I always used to change the condenser when I changed points on my old cars, it was always the rule of thumb. next question....I need a puller for the flywheel...any recommendations, I see different sizes listed for Rotax lumps?

1980 320TL std: Typical having a great trial yesterday dropping but 4 on two rounds and on the 1st section of the last lap, just entering the section bike stops dead, as if I'd pulled the lanyard off....she had lost her spark After the lunchbreak when I started her she was running a bit rough, almost 4 stroking, turned her off, restarted and she was fine. Also the last few times I've jet washed her down she ran a little rough until I WD-40'd the ht lead...hmmm that was going thru my head as I started sweated cobs kicking her over. Did a few checks on the section before pushing her back in embarrassment... plug OK, points opening, took lead off cap and earthed, still no joy. Been out this morning to have a look. Just popped a new HT lead on her, disconnected kill system still no joy, no obvious broken wires, check the coil resistances and found the following: coil terminal + to HT lead 4.7k ohms coil terminal - to HT lead 4.7k ohms coil terminals + to - continuity ....not being up on magneto points ignition with AC external secondary coil, using AC voltage to generate a spark any thoughts on those readings? If I set my Fluke to AC I'm getting a voltage of some sort from the live feed from the source coil (primary) to the secondary (ignition) coil, hard to measure being AC but something is there...points not burnt either. What sort of coil do I buy?...any suggestions. any help welcome

I think you meant .2mm to .5mm

Thanks guys

Snow falling outside and my hands always feel the cold no matter how much enthusiastic I'm feeling. ....always fancied some neoprene trials gloves. I understand they won't keep my hands dry but will keep the wind and cold out. I'll probably go for a pair of Wulfsports as I've always their gear to be great value, well made and durable. would welcome some advice....ohh some help on sizing.....I usually have a large size. PS I've got some X-acting waterproof trials gloves but they are sooooo thick and chunky I cant even use them for enduros.

I'm guessing that the metal tank option may of been UK only. Back then plastic fuel tanks weren't type approved for road use.....couldn't even fill a spare fuel can up if it was plastic....had use an old GTX or Duckhams can!

Could be wrong but I thought supplying dealer to end user mark up was only 200/350 quid? Such sad, sad news, I've owned , enjoyed and loved 5 gasser enduro's over the years, never, ever had a problem with any of them...they just sort of fitted me and my riding style if that makes sense? If manufacturers struggled back in the 70's with the huge sales of bikes then, it must be so much harder now.

I painted a plastic Bultaco tank some 20 years ago and shortly after sold the bike to a friend, who then parked it in a corner never to be used again. The finish was excellent and speaking with my friend recently the tank is still in good nick. He never drained the fuel out so there has been fuel in the tank....hasn't peeled or pickled. I used proper bodyshop matirials and I believe part of the sucess maybe down to the super hi-build bumper primer (allows for flexing) and the topcoat also had an additive to aid flexing. This was a long time ago and things should have improved, maybe worth popping into a bodyship and asking for advice?

Meant to pass this on earlier. Did a classic trial last weekend and one of the guys who stopped for a chat about Speedy, had two SWM TL320's from new, bought from kershaws in Essex. He told me that back the in day he used clutch springs from a Honda MT50 moped....was a common mod' back then? Just thought I'd throw that into the SWM melting pot of 'clutch fixes'.

Just fancy one...Rotax theme going on...always liked them. .....and I love those old school tonka toy colours.....technical facets like that are important to someone as shallow as myself. ....arent Jumbo's too much bike for a rookie like myself?

Sorry forgot to add....yup SWM for next project is a great choice sir....they burned so bright for too short a time.....the yellow would complement the blue! ...round these parts there are aren't too many about, but mine always attracts a lot of attention.....I found my resto' very easy.

Wow....thanks for that post dan, I'm actually a little under the weather myself carting around a duff pancreas....I forget this (my wife doesn't!) because being a guy we ignore this type of thing. ....I still think I'm 18 though! Great tips on the technique, practice and the basic stuff too.

"Whole brain" bad day at the office? regulated exhaust emissions are measured in grams/kw/hr and/or grams/km not on time that would be silly wouldn't it then we need to consider and.....ohh pooo I can't be bothered....yup trials bike actually clean the environment and promote loving awareness....well mine does, enjoy

Very nice indeed, love the look of those blue/white models ..had a 1980 one 20 years ago, well done.

Commercial jet engines are actually very , very clean....modern cars are very clean....keep it quiet but trials bikes are very filthy things with regards regulated exhaust emissions....

As the title...do the earlier rear brake plates fit the later non-cush drive hub? I'm after a rear brake plate and cam to refurb' and have found one off an early Gori cush drive model. cheers as always

Hi guys can anyone let me know the model year changes of Climber's and what to look for? I have a SWM so I know the Rotex lump should be bombproof so more worried over chassis. How is the parts situation? Thanks for your help

Would it help if we all ran strawberry scented 2 stroke oil....could be one of your 5 a day... PS: Does that stuff actually smell of strawberries...I've always wondered?

Cheers guys some good ideas there. tyre pressure today was 5psi to start 3 at end after bleeding a tad more out, tyre condition seems fine....not that old either. Thinking it thru some more, its more a case of off camber grip....you know running along a muddy gully and having to climb out at 45' off camber....between sections. there were some steep climbs over roots and she gripped real well.....I experimented in 1, 2 and 3rd just off idle and didnt make too much difference, she pulls like steamtrain but softly as a feather duster if needed and could wish for. .....as I'm writing this its just dawned on me that I haven't any mud in my practice area, its all loose soft leafy loam which although having its own problems isnt mud...could just be a case of more riding in the soft stuff and beating myself up a little less after dropping points? The observing idea sounds very interesting, last week I followed a erm more mature winny Bultaco rider around and was amazed at how smooooooooth he was, clutch rarely engaged, looking way ahead....next muddy trial I'll follow Richard around again! Bloody frustrating sport at times....but super sweet when it all comes together.

I'm never gonna be great on a bike, I can live with that but the last 2 trials (a week apart) I've been failing to live up to my own low standards. Bit of background, been an occasional rider for the last 3 years, but now I'm competing every week since December now I'm riding my twinshock SWM.....I've been getting much better, can track stand whilst waiting my turn to my surprise stop mid-section etc but if its a little slippy I'm all over the shop struggling for grip, sort of flopping around like a bag of dirty washing....so 1 step forward 2 steps back. I'm lucky in that I have my own small practice area with small obsticles and my riding was awful last week when practicing. Ive a bad habit of running the clutch a lot but have been trying to ween myself off this bad habit letting the bike chuggle along....my SWM is nigh impossible to stall. ....in otherwords my riding is getting worse not better in the section but better out of it...if that makes sense...cos I cant make any sense of it!?!

My Grimeca rear brake plate cam bushing is very worn....the cam is also bent (go figure!) it works fine still but obviously needs repairing. Can anyone recommend an enginnering shop to do this...I can post, but based in Norfolk if anyone knows somewhere local. .. need to source a rear cam first though!

Thanks B40 yup got that the radar too.....the CRF has those big chunky plastic adjusters I like though...choices...choices...

Well I'd heard it was possible but saw it with my own eyes yesterday.....I wish I'd had a camera to take a snap of the guys face when he let the clutch out! Always thought this was a Villiers party trick, is it common on Fantics....can't tell you which model it was?

I want to modify my rear pedal to suit my relocated footrests....needs to be 2" down, 2" further back and for my own comfort 1"further out. Anyone care to share their experiences mod'y rear pedals? Cheers

I want to fit a Honda CRF clutch perch with the quick adjuster (hot start may double as my decompressor?) they also have a good action too....saw one on a Beamish at a trial and thought good idea but... My clutch cable has the smaller end nipple, is it possible to get 'convertor' to go to the more normal larger size? Many thanks