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Been poking around the Cota 247C (1978) and it would appear that this bike may originally of come with a red frame.... although the top coat is currently black.
Now I do know that some manufacturers used some odd primers. Take SWM, they used blue primer for black frames (and maybe black for Pernod frames being Italian) so maybe Montesa could of used a red primer?
Also, I sell cars for a living and sometimes the factory 'undercoats' are really quite strange compared to the top finish coat....bright whites under reds, yellows unders greens and blacks etc.
Any ideas from the forum 'Montesti'...I read that in an early 70's test of an old 247
cheers
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Venhill do a DIY cable kit for a tenner or so...maybe helpful for someone
https://www.venhill.co.uk/Cables_-_Components_Kits/Universal_Cable_Kits/U01-1-100_UNIVERSAL_CLUTCH_CABLE_KIT_(1.35M).html
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I don't were the £116 came from?
I just spoke with Venhill and have been quoted £42 inc VAT for a custom cable.
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Brass thrust bearing worn?
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222498770539
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Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222508737248
In Motion do the swinging arm bushes. Not cheap though.
Wash the sludge out with petrol
Drain and change oil in clutch before going deeper for clutch judder.
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Great news.
Thank you so much for taking the time out to check that
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that is lovely sir
Just noticed those Jumbo Rotax lump look like they don't run a primary gear flywheel...there is no bulge for it?
PS did they run Domino levers and perches when new? If so dump the present ones or you are in for some possible 'cable pain'
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Ahh my saviour once more to the brink sir
...that would be fantastic
A very grateful Montesa owner
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If you aren't running Domino levers and perches and throttle assembly the cables will not fit. Domino were standard fit back in the day.
...been there, got the T short and cap
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Just a quick update on the Speedy clutch...its been a while..ohh and reading that back again I forgot to mention I filed the slight wear slots off my clutch basket.
I've been done a few trials and a fair bit of practicing, though lately more observing...good for the soul, a bit of observing.
At last weeks trial I indulged in the 'try the clutch on ya neighbours bike in the queue' routine and I gota say my Speedy is super slick, two finger light and progressive compared to most twinshocks I tried, Beamish, TY175, Bultaco, Ossa.
Now this is odd as the one thing people whinge about on Speedies is the clutch, but I gota say mine is great. I did chat to someone at a 'well known cable company' before christmas and was told a cable is past it's best after 3 months of off road work if used every weekend. It also needs to be cleaned using WD-40 internally after every event or jet washing...surprised me, I thought like most that a cable is a 'fit 'n forget fa years or breaks' which is why there are so many "my clutch...." issues I guess? I've been using a cable oiler and 3 in 1 and been doing in situ' being thte lazy type
"After a race meeting or as often as possible after power washing, remove the cables from the bike and flush through with with a light lubricant spray such as "WD40". Keep flushing them through until the fluid runs clear. You do not need to lubricate Venhill cables with oil as this will increase friction between the inner wire and the Teflon tubing. Check cable routing when re-fitting and ensure the cables do not snag when steering lock to lock."
One thing to note is that Speedy is starting to be reluctant to find neutral again even with new ATF, so I'll be stripping the steels out again soon and roughing them up again, this time I'll be using 80 grit as I think it may last longer with the rough grade surface finish.
I just wish 'they' did dimpled steels like MX bikes. I cured my Montesa 315R's dreadful clutch drag instantly by fitting CR125 steels. If I had a mill with a dividing head and a few days spare I'd be drilling small countersink type holes in the steels to see how that goes?
I've been changing the oil every few 3 months and still using ATF.
NB:- When I had my Beta REV3 even after doing the forum 'clutch fix' I never did cure the dragging....but I'd never 'roughed up' my steels.
NBB:- I've a Montesa 247C too now....and you think the SWM clutch mechanism is 'creative'? Well them Spanish engineers bless them....try a brass bush for a thrust bearing that came in various thickness's, a clutch basket/pack that needs to be removed to remove plates, with pins restraining the springs and no other easy adjustment bar the cable. Saying that it does the job though a its very on and off, no drag, easy gear slection but with a heavy pull that should be easier when the new cable is fitted?
hope this helps someone.
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Just wondering if my brass clutch thrust bearing is worn without pulling the cover off?
....with cable removed I have around just under 2" slack before the arm depresses on anything internal, from 'out to in' one might say...see pictures
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Well it never stops with old bikes does it.
My front brake cable is now too short by about an inch...been cut back in the past I guess?
....new shoes on the back plate
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http://www.charlesjohnson.co.uk/relining-services/3451931
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Picked the religned shoes today from Charles Johnson's...great service, usual turnaround is 3 days but I dropped them off yesterday afternoon and they were ready this morning as they knew I was needing the bike for a trial this Sunday. They as tight as on the drum too, not a lot of wiggle room. When I bought new shoes for my Speedy they had loads of slack from new.
Mark, the guy I dealt with is as keen as mustard too and a just really nice guy to deal with. He was very patient with my rookie questions on religning shoes.
Top Class service
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My clutch is working just dandy at the moment, no dragging, no slipping in top and neutral is a piece of p*ss to find. If I had to find fault it's a little bit on or off.
I believe the 'book' says 10/30 motor oil, but also see that some use ATF, as I do in my Speedy.
Any recommendations gentlemen?
thanks in advance
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Cheers
....thought that would be the case....opposite to what is current
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Where are you?.....post gets to most places....I've even sent a letter to the North Pole
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Yes shoes are available but far better to get the shoes 'matched' to the drums.
Also the off the peg shoes are usually road material that just happen to cross reference to to trials bikes.
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£30 per wheel...not bad as EBC road work compatible shoes are £25 and not made to fit.
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Well I've seen it all now.
Stripped the shoes off the back plate and found a metal packing piece under each shoe on the brake cam....not sitting very well and not sitting flat.
Without the packing piece there was not enough adjustment left on the brake cable.
Just delivered the wheel and brake to Charles Johnson in Norwich to get the shoes religned with decent trials compatible material with minimal clearance....I think its a Ferodo greenish high metal content material..... 571?
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