wheeliebealie

Just done the very same repair to the stanchions on my lads bike, fortunately not caused by the same reasons/scrotes - that unfortunately happened to us 3 years ago so I feel your pain, they managed both our trials bikes, my KTM 690SMC and 3 push bikes - nothing like filling your boots is it! Anyway, rubbed the burrs down with 600 grit wet and dry then worked my way through till I finished on 1500 grit (always using something to wet the area, I used engine oil), then I filled the 'dips' with nail varnish (for those of you wondering it was Maybelline Fuchsianista!) and let that go off overnight. Next job was to rub the varnish back with 1000 grit working my way up to 1500 grit using water as a lube medium. I wasn't completely happy with the finish (could still feel my finger nail dragging over the repaired area) so reapplied the nail varnish and went through the process again. He's only ridden the bike for one outing since but there were no leaks. The important thing to have with this process is lots of patience and keep working it get a smooth burr free finish.

I have found exactly the same with my son, he is 17 and went from his Beta Evo 125, 3 months on an Evo 250 (2t) and after a couple of rides on my 300 4t he decided that was the way to go for him, so I got him one, long story short... he absolutely loves the bike and everything about it

My lad and I both have Beta Evo's and within a couple of hours of each other we both broke the front mudguards in exactly the same way a couple of months ago, they both cracked through from one of the mounting holes, have now replaced both with Bosi aftermarket ones (via BVM), they're pretty similar in price to the Beta OEM mudguards too. For the rear I use bolts to fix the mudguard at the two forward fixing points and the rearwards two I zip tie on with the thinnest zip ties I can get, the mudguards are plenty secure enough when riding (my lad does all the hoppy skippy stuff as well) but the zip-ties become the weak link should things go belly up - which they will Neither of us have broken a rear mudguard since this I've used the zip tie method, but we have broken lots of zip ties

Why don't' you use Oilite bushings instead? I've put them in my lads Beta and they last just as well as needle bearings, much cheaper too! A set of dogbone and linkage bearings and seals for his Beta was £70, a set of Oilite bushings (no seals required) was £13 (including postage).

6004 2RS is correct ☺

Ok so the formatting didn't come out properly but if you PM me I'll email you the list back in word format.

Tav 13 - SWINGING ARM KIT Pos Number Quantity Description Notes 8 007330100-000 4 Inner Dust Cover 22 x 28 x 4 12 & 16 007331120-000 4 Inside Bush Only ever found these thru Beta 15 1122980-000 4 Roller Cage 22 x 28 x 16 (HK22116) Tav 13 - LINKAGE KIT Pos Number Quantity Description Notes 38 007330350-000 4 Bearing (Dog Bones) 15 x 21 x 14 (HK1514-RS) 46 007330390-000 2 Roller Cage Bearing (Rocker Arm) 15 x 21 x 12 (HK1512) 52 007330450-000 10 Seal (Rocker Arm & Dog Bones) 15 x 21 x 3 Tav 31 - STEERER KIT Pos Number Quantity Description Notes 4/5 1298300-000 2 Conical Bearing 20 x 42 x 15 (32004) Tav 33 - SHOCK ABSORBER KIT Pos Number Quantity Description Notes 74 007330410-000 2 Shock Absorber 12 x 22 x 10 Tav 41 - FRONT WHEEL KIT Pos Number Quantity Description Notes 18 1297900-000 2 Bearing 20 x 37 x 9 (6904 2RS) Tav 42 - REAR WHEEL KIT Pos Number Quantity Description Notes 17 1296771-000 2 Bearing 20 x 42 x 12 (6004 2RS)

I've also filled the side mesh bits with clear silicone to help stop water getting in that way, did it when I got my Evo 250 from Steve Saunders, on his recommendation(suggest he knows his stuff!), I don't run those plastic filter covers and don't get any water in the air-box, also did it on my lads Evo 125 when I got that a couple of years ago and again no water. We've since changed our bikes and now both running 300 Evo 4t's, again the mesh is packed/filled with clear silicone sealant and again no water in either airbox.

Mine tends to hot start better if you leave the hot start alone i.e. in, I just give the throttle a tiny amount of twist, enough to take the slack out of the cable and it fires up first kick every time,

Try holding the throttle open just enough to take the slack out of the cable when you kick it over. I don't use hot start at all.

Yeh I thought that (I have similar a riding history as you) but what I have learned over the last couple of years of trials riding is that there is throttle control and then there is trials throttle control! My first bike was a GG280 on the basis that I'm 6'1" and just slightly south of 20 stone, did the usual 'road bike thing' more power is never a bad thing... well it darned near tried to kill me! Bailed off the back of it time after time trying to go up stuff, chopped it in and got a 250 and never looked back. The only reason I don't have my 250 now is because my son has stolen it off me and rides it, so I had to get another bike (thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it!), I currently have a Beta 300 4t. Absolutly love it, only got the 300 because it came up in the local trials shop and I couldn't resist, would have had the 250 if there had been one there instead though as even with my fat a*** on it a 250 easily did everything I asked of it including getting me up an over 4-5 foot obstacles. You will soon learn that trials is all about technique and not the bikes power, just wait till you do your first trial on your shiny new 300 and the old boy who can hardly walk let alone ride on the twinshock rides rings round you - I'm speaking from experience!

Don't have a problem hot starting mine now I've got the knack. I never use the hot start, I open the throttle enough just take up the slack on the cable and a nice gentle kick over and away I go again

I try my best to entertain... bit of a footballer type flouncy roll after though eh

I had a Gas Gas TxT Pro 250 and my son had a 125, I say had because some scrote decided they'd look better with their pikey a*** on them than them being in my garage a while back, anyway digressions aside, my 250 worked best with Putolene light gear oil and my lads with ATF (Dexron 3). We now both have Beta Evo's (250 & 125) and they both work well with the light gear oil but then again that bit doesn't really matter as you want the Gasser info! The other thing is Gasser's only need 330ml of oil when doing an oil change, despite the manual saying 550ml.

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