henrik

Ok so its the same as for the 2018, thanks! I will assume base line settings are the same for 2017 and 2018 for both fork and shock. I already have the suspension dialed in to suit me, but my suspension log book isnt complete without that information, i like to know how far from base line i am. Just for fun

I can find the standard 2017 (not same as Factory, the factory have separate compression and rebound adjusters) I can find Factory 2018 (maybe not same as 2017 since they have specified changes to the suspension) I can not find 2017 Factory I think you both are referring to the standard 2017 which is not what im looking for. I have been scrolling that page up and down many times the past year and cant find it, if its really there or somewhere else to be found, please post the link

I would if it was there to be found.

Hi Im looking for the manual for the 300 Factory 2T 2017 model. I want to know the baseline settings for the suspension clickers and I cant find anything for the 2017. For the 2018 they have a supplementary sheet with those settings but im not sure if they are the same since they have made some changes for the 2018 model.

Fitted the new regulator and now its working.

Have/had a problem with the fan on a Beta evo 300 2017. Tested the fan, it was ok. Tested the thermo switch, it was ok. Tested a lot of wires, all ok. Then i tested the 12v regulator and it was putting out AC current and not DC. So it must have been the converter (not sure if this is the correct word in english) in the regulator that is broken. A new regulator is ordered, i hope it will be fine.

Maybe this PDF of the engine can help you. http://www.americanbeta.com/sites/default/files/pdf/2012Support/Service%20Manuals/Mototrial/2009-2012%20Evo%202%20stroke%20Engine.pdf

vgstef: If you get one, let us know what you think of it. I know that reiger manufactures a shock for the Gas Gas racing and I suppose it has been specially made to fit that bike. What about Beta then, have they made a specific shock for Beta as well or does it just happen to fit? I have seen companies on the internet selling Öhlins shock for Beta, but when I talked to a Öhlins delar, he said they haven´t and that it is probalby just a shock that fits. And his thought about this was that if its not specially made for a specific bike, then its probably not the best choice. He even called the head office to ask since I was sure I had seen it markeded. Im thinking the mechanics would be out of range quite fast due to different linkages and so on, but I might be wrong. Anyways, the reiger shock made specificly for gas gas racing with the separate adjustments for damping and rebound makes me think about getting one. I tried a TXT pro 280 2012 (no reiger) the other day and I must say it felt pretty good, a racing 2013 must be pretty sweet.

This is how it went, I concluded the shock was shot and bought a TRP-shock directly from the manufacturer in Belgium. The person responding to my e-mails was the owner of the company and I took the opportunity to ask some questions. This is it: It has adjustable preload and a needle valve for the oil which is called rebound adjuster, but since it works both ways it also affects the compression. They have 5 different spring rates available depending on weight and riding style, I got the 70Nm. I asked about recomended setting of the sag and suggested 1/3 of the travel. He said that they dont have a golden rule, some riders have 1/3 other 1/2 and so on, its up the rider whatever feels right. It was about 490 euros if i remember correct, the rebound clicker has 29 steps. From factory it has a pre setting depending on my weight, after run-in about 5h changes can be made to whatever suits you. It is rebuildable, and they can do it for you. Gas pressure is 10 bar and there is a screw with a refill valve. I was really happy with the service and info I got. How often can you ask technical questions directly to the people producing the stuff you use. My only wish is separate adjusters for compression and rebound but i suppose that would be too expensive. I have now had it for a while and had the time to run it in, adjust it a bit and so on. I am very pleased with it, definetly a good buy!

Fixed this a long time ago now, but wanted to let you know how it went. I bought a kit with heli-coil and tried it out, the remaining brass after drilling was very thin but it worked out really good.

Betamotor doesn´t link to this info, but if you type it in yourself you can find it, here are the links explaining the updates from year to year: http://www.betamotor.com/en/trial/bikes/evo-250-290-2t-my10 http://www.betamotor.com/en/trial/bikes/evo-250-290-2t-my11 http://www.betamotor.com/en/trial/bikes/evo-250-300-2t-my12 http://www.betamotor.com/en/trial/bikes/evo-250-300-2t-my13 Henrik

Surfted, I started out with trials last year and so did some other guys that I ride with, 5 in total. All of us had experience with bikes but not trials and we got 270-290cc bikes, none of us had any problems with too much power. I have read about it here before but I dont understand why it should be a problem. I think what happens is the standing up and giving throttle moves the bike forward and the body goes back and the throttle turns more and then a crasch. But if you are used to bikes and always keep one finger on the clutch its no problem, and if it is you will get used to it and learn to handle it. What kind of riding are you planning to do? You say you live north of gothenburg, but how far. There are trials clubs is Ale, Uddevalla and Sotenäs that i know of, there might be more. If you are planning on riding at a club i believe you will do trials, but if you live on the countryside and are going to ride by yourself on your own land my guess is it will be more like trail riding. In the last case I would definetly get a 250-300cc bike. Also, here in Sweden I have never seen a 200cc bike, there are almost only 125 and 250-300 and rebuilding one to 200 seems like a gamble for the aftermarket price. If you are 20+ years of age, I would get a big bike. These are just my personal thoughts. One way to go might be trying a big bike and se how it feels before you make up your mind. At my club in Partille we have try-outs on wednesdays but I think tomorrow is the last one this season. Im also not sure if there is a big bike or only 80 and 125cc. One more thing, riding at a club is way more fun than riding by yourself, I started out with the latter and that was fun, but riding with others and learn the technique is awesome. On november 3rd there is kåsjötrial in partille, a beginners competition. And on the 11th a similar one called farsdagstrial in Kinna. There is also a series with 7 competitions called väst-trial, last event was last saturday but starts again in april. All the events are surrounding the Gothenburg area, google partille trial for more information. Okej okej, end of my novel. Get a bike and the fun begins no matter what you get or how you ride!

Hi My friends Ossa TR280i started to smoke real bad and was running poor when trying to accelerate. It was perfekt on idle, but as soon as the engine got some resistance it started to smoke and was misfiring. The smoke was white/greyish. New sparkplug did not make a difference. The cylinder head gasquet is ok, and the radiator coolant level is also ok. When i say smoke real bad, i mean enough to get waterbombed by a fire department helicopter. I can only think of two things, something electric, maybe with the fuel injection or perhaps the gearbox oil is entering the cylinder somehow. But the oil level seems to be ok as well. Its a 2 month old year 2012 bike. Any thoughts?

Hi Anyone know the front and rear suspension travel on the TR280i 2012, need to know it when setting sag and I cant find it in the manual.

Today I was helping i friend with his rear brake on his 2012 OSSA. The hose had started leaking from a hole in it, probably melted from touching the exhaust. There was also this rivet in the pedal that was broken and he had ordered a new one pedal and all that, the aluminum in the rivet-hole in the pedal was also deformed. Questions: 1) When you are replacing the rivet with a bolt, what kind of bolt are you using, there is no space for the head? 2) The replacement hose ordered from the importer had a larger diameter than the original and was to big to fit in the "fastening seat" on the swingarm, has anyone experienced the same? 3) The lid for the fluid reservoar is opened vertically, so we took it out holding it horisontally when bleeding from the disc-end, this worked fine. There is a small screw that i guess can be used for draining the reservoar, but when only removing that one i could not push in any more fluid the the disc-end, how is that one suppost to be used? 4) Maybe not a question, but the hose sits in a very bent position at the master cylinder in order not to hit the rear shock, doesn´t seem all that good. Other than that, his rear brake workes fine now.. However I think its only a matter of time until the rivet brakes again so we need to find some kind of bolt that fit.

Some of the brass threads on the air filter box are shreaded. I guess I´m not the first one to experience this. What solutions could be done regarding this? The brass material is so thin I dont think i can either thread it a larger dimension or insert heli-coil. Only way with heli-coil would be to drill the brass away and put it in the plastic which i doubt will last long. Could try to do it in another piece of plastic and test the strength. It would be nice if one could buy something made for this, some sort of insert with better threads but I don´t know if that exists. Any ideas, what has been done before that works except buying a new air filter box? Does anyone know what type of brass thing is used when they manufacture it and how it is inserted?

Pindie: What country does this Andy live in, Wales? If so, what might the nation telephone code be? I will try to se if i can get someone here in Sweden fix it, but i doubt it, trials isn´t a big sport here and I guess it needs to be an expert since they are not made to be opened, and who knows what oil and gas pressure is needed.

Thanks fo the replys. After reading what you guys said I figured it was either the spring or the shock itself (Einstein thinking). I have two EVO 2010s so I took the good one apart as well and was going to switch springs and see what happens. I didn´t get that far, because when I had both shocks without spring they behaved like this: Bad one: With no rebound damping: Can compress it with say 50% hand force of my max and the rod returns out medium fast. With max rebound damping: 75% force, rod returns real slow. Good one: With no rebound damping: 95% force, returns fast With max rebound damping: 110% force, returns medium fast (my hands and arms hurt). Comparing the springs visually and applying som pressure with my hands they move just a litte bit, feels the same, although this is a poor test. I´m getting quite confident the problem is with the shock. I will contact the importer and see what he says. The bike is a couple of years old now so my hopes are not that high. Does someone have some more detailed info about the TRP shock? Are they made for Beta EVO? Are they better than the original or cheaper? Do they have a compression adjustment screw? Where can I get hem and so on? Since I already have all the parts off I might as well do the spring change test just to be sure. Henrik

Hi Dont know if you need info for Rev 80, EVO 80, what year and so on. You can find manuals here, http://www.betamotor.com/en/support/manuals Hopefully this will help.

According to Betas website the front fork is updated and the rear shock also with "new hydraulics", I wonder if this means there is a screw for compression damping on the rear, I hope so. Looks real cool, and maybe the air filter doesn´t collect as much dirt and crap since they have changed the fender, from a maintenance point of view this would be real nice. Can´t wait to see it!

Hi I´m a new member and i have som issues with the rear shock of a Beta EVO 2010. It bottoms out real easy, just small hopps in the garage makes the rear shock hit the rubberthing for bottom out damping. I believe the spring is the original (but not sure) and I have preloaded it to the max. I weigh only about 65kg and it still bottoms out from just small hopps. If I understand it correctly the setting screw on the rear shock controls the rebound damping so the setting of this should not affect the bottoming out. Either way, I have tried this at both max and min, it doesn´t matter, I bottom it out real easy anyways. Today I took the shock out and the spring off. I can´t determine if oil has been leaking out or if it still has gas pressure inside. However I noticed a small black rubber seal that should be sitting around the rod and in a seat in the shock, this one had come off its seat and maybe allowed dirt to damage the seals in the shock, when i push it back and compress the shock it comes out again. At this point the only thing i can come to think of to do is to manually with the shock in my hands compress the shock which i can quite easily do, but it does give some resistance. Once compressed, it slowly pushes out the rod again. The problem is I have no idea how this should feel or if it even should be possible to do with my hands. It is harder to move it if I turn the setting screw for rebound max in. My own diagnosis is that something is wrong with the oil and/or gas. But there is still some pressure in it since it pushes out the rod after compressed. Any thoughts about this or ideas of how to be sure about whats wrong or what to do? Regards Henrik