maggar

I rode a 303 for a season last year in classic trials and found it to be an excellent bike. The blue and red series 1 bikes do not have the remote rear shock gas reservoir and adjusting preload is a bit of a chew on. Overall a very nice bike but as with all of theses older machines make sure you ride it first and that you're happy with the power delivery etc.

Phone Bill Pye on 01642 722378 He'll know.

NAU, Airoh and Wulf. All good, NAU is best for me.

if you go for a 240 it will need mods whereas the 200 is good to go in std form.

It's going to cost about half the price of new boots to buy and attach a replacement sole, which will then be attached to 3 month old boots and may not be attached as well as a factory sole is. I'd rather spend the money on a legal letter to Gaerne mentioning whatever the French equivalent to the Sale of Goods Act (product should be suitable for purpose and last a reasonable amount of time basically). You'll probably end up with free replacements. Find out where their HQ is in France and write to them yourself in the first place. If you don't get any joy get a solicitor to write to them.

My Fantic 200's My Hardy Cub

Another vote for the Fantic 200. Don't be put off by the 156cc engine they produce more power than a 200 TLR and will pull a lard ar$e like me through sections with no problem whatsoever. You should be looking at around £1750 to £2000 for a decent one and three hundred or so more for a minter. No need to change anything although I've lowered and moved back the pegs (1 inch down and 1 inch back) on both mine for personal preference.

IRC for me.

3D printing!! Wow, a genuine application for something I previously thought of as science fiction. I have e-mailed Richard to see if he has any of the alloy ones too. Twistandgo, as I said I don't really understand 3D printing but would it include the mounting lugs and, if not the whole tool box section, another mounting point to connect to that mount (left side) also?

The air box on my (regular ride) rear kick 200 is self-destructing - particulalrly at the mounting points, due to age and use. I have plastic welded it a few times now but could really do with a replacement. I've been looking for an original one on eBay for a while and have looked at Bob's website but they seem to be like hen's teeth. I was thinking of either getting one made out of aluminium (costly I imagine) or going with a cone filter (re-jetting?) Any thoughts? BTW - what has happened to Bill Pye's website?

Looking good!

You didn't bung the silencer when you washed it and have left it in?

Blast with the pressure washer and then I work some warmed up Dubbin into all of the leather parts, especially around the seams. (Gaerne Oiled Balance)

Tried that but there was no slack. Looks like new plates.

No, went up to Teesside.

I'm going to change to Silkolene Lite Gear Oil for the Fantics. Fastbelly - a bit confused about the actuator arm adjustment. Removing the plug exposes a bolt / nut (from memory) what adjustment can be made? Is it a case of tightening or slackening that nut, and for what effect each way? Thanks

My 301 suffered no clutch slip at all (except for the high gear slip that seems to be standard on all Fantics) and I rode it for an hour or so last weekend on a practice ground. Two days later I started it up and went to have a little practice only to find that the clutch is slipping now in all gears. So much so that you can't lift the front wheel at all as it just revs without much forward motion. So, is it time for a new set of clutch plates? If so, any special tools required? In case it's relevant I have recently changed gearbox oil from 10w40 to 5w30 synthetic.

Thanks Andy, that has cleared it up. Thanks everyone for your replies. Andy, the bike is for sale currently, do you want to buy it back? I have really enjoyed the 303 but wanted to get back to riding "pure" twinshocks again. Wife says I have too many bikes as well (a woman with about 200 pairs of shoes!) NOW SOLD.

Thanks. Confirms what I thought about the seller.

Okay, this is crackers because I've ridden this bike for a season and I should know the answer! I was told by the bloke I bought the 303 off that (unlike my other Fantics) the choke is "On" when the lever is pressed down. After a recent clean up to solve a fuelling issue I'm having doubts as to whether he was right or not. Altering the timing screw can make the bike run well with the lever up or down. Any 303 owners out there with the definitive answer?

The position of the mudguard is dictated by the "cut out" shaping around the exhaust / silencer connection to a large extent. You'll want to stick some heat protection onto the mudguard around that point to stop it melting as it will touch the exhaust otherwise. It's a two man job to fit as you need someone checking that the mudguard is 'square on' looking from the back of the bike then mark through the holes and drill - nothing worse than looking at a twisted mudguard forever! If your's doesn't have the lugs on the frame loop I would go with round profile or countersunk type allen bolts to stop you catching the bolt heads all the time - I need to change my one like that. There should be a small metal plate which fixes across the two mounting holes underneath the mudguard, if you haven't got that make sure you have a couple of washers on to stop the nuts being pulled through the plastic when you tighten it up.

Yes, the mudguard brackets I have on mine fit the same holes as the original ones. You're spot on about the toolbox cover, you've more chance of finding hen's teeth in a pile of unicorn sh!t. If you want it I have a rear mudguard in one piece from one of the 200's. You can have it. Message me with your address if you want it and I'll post it down to you.

It isn't a previously done helicoil that's come out is it?

Another really good Peak Classic trial. This is the third one I've done now and they are really well organised with plenty of scope for different abilities. I'm always really impressed with the sections layout, the friendliness and the amount of work that has obviously been put in. Brilliant, well done Paul. We've ridden this year as "guests" but my riding buddy and I will be joining your club next year and aiming to do all the trials, I would encourage anyone to make the effort to get to the Peak Classic trials.

Thanks mate, I like the white frame too but with yours being as good as it is I'd be inclined to agree that it should be kept original. The seats which are on Ebay at £125 are Fantic 240 seats I think and they are a different fit make sure before you order. There are Fantic 200 seats on Ebay at "£150 - Make Offer", you might save a tenner or so by making an offer. The other option is Bob Wright (Google search him), he had some 200 seats in as well. I have replaced my side panels with the metal ones bought from Ad-tek Products which came powder coated red and complete with the sticker kit are much more robust and a bit cheaper than the plastic ones without stickers. I don't know whether they have any more or are going to make some more but their Ebay shop is empty at the moment. If you Google them there's a "Contact Us" option on their website, you could ask them on there. If you want the original style plastic ones I'd contact Bill Pye at Frankfield Garage in Great Ayton. There is nothing that Bill doesn't know about Fantics and he's a cracking bloke who will be happy to talk through any problems you have. You can get good replacement mudguards from InMotion Trials for about £49 (rear) £32 (front) but it might be worth checking to see if Bill or Bob has them any cheaper. If you do replace them it's worth putting some adhesive heat shield padding on the part where the rear guard goes around the exhaust / silencer join. If you are going to repaint the frame or panels and you need rattle cans I have loads that you can have (I painted the first bike's panels but then opted to powder coat the frames). I have a few odds and sods left over from doing my two bikes so before you part with your hard-earned for that annoying little part give me a shout (because it might be one of the bits I have spare. Good luck.