maggar

You won't go far wrong with the Fantic 200. I have just completed a rebuild on my second one and am now going back to riding that instead of my 303 Mono. A few people tried to put me off the little Fantic saying it would be underpowered for me but the 200 (156cc) actually produced more power than the Bultaco 250 Sherpa T of the time and is more than enough for any type of trial you might want to ride in. It has about 25% more power than the TY175 and is lighter and steers better than just about any other bike you'll see in twinshock trials, including the larger capacity Fantics. It is possibly only bettered by the 200 Professional but they are like rocking horse sh!t (if you find one - buy it!) and the tricked up TLR's and Majesty's. I hope you enjoy your bike and if you want to ask any questions when it comes to restoring I'd be happy to help you out where I can; I've made most of the mistakes you can and fixed them on the two bikes we've done.

I spend half my life cutting bloody grass! Any thoughts on the bikes / white frame / values etc?

Can't water get under scratched paint as easily as it can under scratched powder coat though? Given that powder coat is harder to scratch it still seems the better option to me. Anyway time will tell and, as they're Rock Shocks, I can always save up for new springs next time.

Wouldn't think so. 400 degrees (F) isn't that hot and most springs come powder coated new now.

Thanks. Went for powder coating in the end. Time will tell whether that was the right choice.

Me and a mate had previously restored one Fantic 200 which I bought as a bit of a basket case; we finished that one earlier this year. Well, I have now completed a "tidy up" of my original 200 which was much better than the other to start with but had suffered a few seasons of abuse and looked ready for some tlc. I've gone for the white frame look which I know divides opinion but I like it and, in any case, it can always go back to red later. My original 200 (now with the all silver head and barrel) was mechanically sound and the only changes were to lower the pegs an inch and move them back an inch.I also had to do a bit of plastic welding on the airbox lugs and case. The other one needed a new carb (Oko) and a swing arm spindle fabricating as well as the same alteration to the peg hangers, this also necessitated moved the side stand mount a bit further back on both bikes. I sourced all the bushes, rubbers etc. on the bikes from Bill Pye (thanks Bill). I kept the Rock Shocks on my "good" bike but cleaned them up and powder coated the springs, whilst the other bike was treated to some NJB's. I think one of them will hibernate now under a dust sheet until the values go mad and the other will be my main twinshock ride.

I have a feeling I'm going to regret asking this but can I just paint the springs on my rear (Rock Shocks) suspension?

Thanks. I had an idea that it should be nitrogen filled. I will remove it again and send it off for a refurb and re-gas. Any thoughts on best people?

Can someone point me at the correct way to "pump up" the air reservoir on the Marzocchi rear mono suspension on the Series 2 303's. Also what is the correct pressure for a 15 stone rider? Thanks

No, it's a Series 2. It was yellow and blue but was changed to the Series 1 colours when it was rebuilt.

Thanks Glenn. The pre-load is just about at the maximum and I don't think the damping screw is working. I have managed to source a really good condition replacement shock from a Series 2 (mine is actually a Series 2 but repainted in the imo nicer Series 1 colours). The next question is where the hell does the reservoir fit? There is nowhere obvious but I'm assuming it must be under the seat as it doesn't seem to be visible in photo's of these bikes from either side.

My 303 sits low with the mudguard not far off the rear tyre. Now this is admittedly in part to my bulk but at 15 stone I'm surely not the biggest bloke to have piloted a 303. The shock on mine has no separate reservoir / adjuster but has a screw adjuster (presumably damping?) at the top and the two pre-load adjuster rings for c-spanner adjustment at the bottom. I have seen a few Marzocchi shockers for 303's on eBay and they have all had the connecting hose and separate reservoir. Is it worth fitting one of these to try to stiffen up and raise the ar$e end of my (otherwise) lovely 303?

Well it's sort of fixed..... Having restarted it about 20 times only to have it stall and then have the kick start go rigid after the next kick she finally ran out of fuel altogether. Put some fuel in, choke and a few twists of the throttle and she fired up again but this time without stalling. She runs as sweets as a nut. The strange thing is that if I turn off the fuel and allow it to run out and stall the kick start will again go rigid! Removing the spark plug will still free the kick start and the engine will turnover, pulling in the clutch will also free up the kick start but obviously the engine doesn't turn over, just as before. It's odd but at least I now have a Cub that works again, I'll keep an eye on her for any more mysterious "glitches" and make sure she always has plenty of fuel. Perhaps this is an elaborate early warning system for low fuel!! Thanks to everyone for all the help.

I am extremely careful when cleaning my bikes and have never used a pressure washer on the Cub as this bike has only been ridden around my drive and has not been dirty yet under my ownership. My other bikes are washed off with garden hose, soapy water and elbow grease! The kick start is engaging properly I'm sure but I agree about "stabbing at kick starts" on any bike. Thanks.

No, if left for a few minutes or even hours the kickstart is still rigid. Only removal of the plug releases it. Tried a new plug straight away on Saturday, didn't make any difference. Going to check ignition with the help of a suitably clued up mate on Wednesday night. I think (but need to check) that the kickstart gears do mesh because it will occasionally start with the single kick you can give it before the kickstart seizes up, also the kick "feels right" and is exactly as it has been when it started and ran fine before Saturday. I will check all the other things you mention too. Thanks.

I have a copy of the original workshop manual as well as the Haynes one. I also have Fred Hardy's original hand written notes on what he did do the internals when he built it.The engine on my Cub has not ist been rebuilt and it has been running and starting perfectly (admittedly probably for only an hour or so in total) up to now. If I remove the spark plug and turn the engine over and then replace the spark plug I can kick it over once and it may or may not start. If it does start it stalls after a few seconds, if it doesn't start the second kick will produce a rigid kickstart. Bizarre!

Thanks Japes. The kickstart does turn easily with the plug out by hand and all feels "right" with the mechanism if you know what I mean. Also if it was just an issue with the kickstart gear this wouldn't explain the pop - fart - die, which is more likely to be timing / ignition related. I will check this prior to pulling it apart; a mate who is a very experienced bike mechanic is going to give me a hand on Wednesday. Thank you. OTF - no offence taken at all. I may be (slightly) underplaying my abilities but not by much! I have 5 trials bikes including the Cub, two 1980 Fantic 200's one of which I am in the process of restoring (its little two stroke engine is in pieces on my work bench at the moment) a 1986 Fantic 201 and a Fantic 303 which I bought already restored but which has since needed a lot of sorting out. I have no interest whatsoever in modern trials or modern trials bikes and have no intention of training as an engineer; I seriously doubt that every owner of Pre 65 trials bikes is so qualified although I accept that many will be. I do understand that Pre 65 bikes will require more in depth maintenance than an oil and filter change every now and then and I will, as I have done with my other bikes gradually learn what I need to. Where I run out of talent I will try to get advice from this excellent forum, the many friendly and helpful trials riders I've met and my excellent friends nearby. You shouldn't get depressed about how little people know nowadays but be cheered by how much some of us want to learn, and be downright chuffed to bits that we actually want to ride and compete on these lovely old machines. I'm genuinely grateful for ALL responses especially to those like yourself who take the time to explain procedures and possible solutions to those of us with less knowledge, it is appreciated.

I'd still rather have been there than fretting about the cub at home! Alan, thanks for that. I have just tried to kick it with the clutch in and the kickstart does go loose. It doesn't feel the same as the normal kickstart stroke but it is loose. It sounds as though you are right although there doesn't appear to be much if any play in the drive sprocket from a cursory look. What scale of job am I looking at bearing in mind that it sounds beyond my rudimentary skills so I'll be paying for it to be done. I paid good money for the bike only two months ago so I'm a bit hacked off to say the least but I suppose this could have happened at any time?