Cookiemonster

Yes 5 steel & 6 friction (paper/cork) plates the apico kit with dimpled plates might be the way to go if you want a more progressive feel to your clutch

Yes fitted the full apico kit but had it done by inch perfect with some other jobs Clutch now starts to disengages about mid way on the lever range rather than at the end

Someone more technically gifted than me may be able to help all I know is it works for me

Resets the ECU when mines been running a few hours & is difficult to restart you follow the above procedure & bingo

There’s a 2008 model on there own quoting all parts available

If you search under Scorpa on a well known internet site there’s a lad on there whose always breaking Scorpas so worth a look

Simply because some testers are ignorant to the process one local lad told me the bike has to have wing mirrors to pass walked away

As the title says anyone know any trials bike friendly MoT garages in Greater Manchester? mines due next month thanks

Thanks all for the advice, don’t have a rattle gun or torque spanner for the amount of torque required to nip the bolt back up so might just be as easy to get a bike shop to change them for me

Thanks, I’ll let you know how I get on

Thanks jonnyc21

Hi all took the plunge & bought the apico dimpled clutch plates which I plan to fit next week sometime looking through the manual & at some previous topics & it looks as simple as remove the cover then the 6 bolts & springs remove existing plates oil up new plates & replace in correct order put bolts back in at 12 Nm cover on bleed if necessary I don’t need the clutch holding tool shown in the manual do I? Or is there a nut holding the clutch centre on? did this mod on a 315 about 15 years ago & don’t recall needing this tool, different bike obviously though & a long time ago! thanks in advance

So did some digging on line about the lanyard issue & some advice suggested taking apart the part on the bars & giving the spring a stretch well it worked today around 5 times so maybe I’ve got lucky 😄

Thanks lineaway & jonnyc21 traditional button kill switch is the way to go I think though I will have a look to see if there is anything obvious where I ride you see loads of people stalling their bikes to shut them down...... Will also check the idle as suggested, if I could only get that hour/tachometer to work....

So managed to put around 6 hours on the bike (had to have my appendix out 🤒) and we’re getting along nicely one gripe I have though is the magnetic lanyard kill switch doesn’t work, I’m having to stall it to stop it tried a new lanyard with no improvement some information on TC about tracing the wires to the ECU to see if corroded and also to check a connection under the tank anyone else have any suggestions? Beginning to pi$$ me off also had one instance of not starting when hot Generally I ride for say 30 minutes then stop for a drink and a chat for 10 minutes then start again, no problem this one time I tried to start again after a minute or 2 without any luck despite doing the ECU reset drove home and 20 minutes later starts no problem... any thoughts? thanks

As pauls320 Says check the clutch actuator arm, there is a mod you can do to give it more stroke, might be covered on here somewhere from memory you move the nut from the inside to the outside so that no thread is exposed also use motul 4t oil again from memory speak to Nigel Birkett

Read the instructions? I’m a bloke!

Thanks jonnyc21 I’ll re oil the air filter as suggested ELF oil gets delivered tomorrow so I’ll change that over the weekend & see how I get on fitted a wireless aprico hour/tachometer today at the bolt that holds down the fuel tank near handle bars when I switched from hours to RPM it maxed at ~ 500 RPM & not the ~ 1800 RPM I was expecting could this be due to the distance it is from the spark plug? cheers

Thanks everyone ill change the oil first as suggested before taking the plunge on the plates regarding the air filter are you oiling it after cleaning it or just cleaning it & putting it back?

hi jonnyc21 good to know ive a slow action throttle thought about altering the adjustment screws but thought it might still feel the same (on/off) but nearer the bars so guess it’s the elf oil & dimpled plates as a minimum from memory friction plates were more expensive than the steel ones but there are more of them the clutch will need bleeding won’t it once I’ve changed the plates? thanks

Bought a 2018 4RT recently & have a couple of questions I hope someone can help with after my first ride at the weekend firstly is the throttle with Montesa written on it a fast or slow action throttle? It does have a black body but seems a little fast secondly regarding the clutch it only bites when the lever is almost fully out, not a big problem but I’d prefer the bite point to be around half way I’ve had a 2T before & used the elf oil, changed to dimpled plates & also Haven (think that’s what they where) friction plates so I’ll be doing the same with the 4RT question is is it worth doing the Friction plates on the 4RT? Or just the dimpled plates? thanks

For the fuel mix it’s 80 ml for 5 litres of fuel from memory, strawberry putoline always worked for me

Here you go, was back in May 2016, good luck! Take pictures as you go to help with the rebuild You can get the carb out if you need to at a meet, without doing these steps, but here's the easiest way get the carb out and in if you're working in a garage. 1. Put the bike on a stand so the rear wheel is off the ground. 2. Remove the rear fender. 3. Turn off the gas. Disconnect the fuel hose at the pet cock. Remove the fuel tank (two screws in the front). Leave the fuel hose connected to the carb. 4. Remove the aluminum sub frame. You'll need to disconnect the coil from the aluminum sub frame. Watch how it's connected in the rubber holder so you can get it back that way. Be careful with the airfilter spring connectors as it's easy to break them. 5. Put a block under the rear wheel to support it cause you're going to remove the top shock bolt and don't want the wheel to hang on the brake hose. 6. Remove the air box. Disconnect the rubber boot at the air box and leave it connected to the carb. Makes it easier to put back together. 7. Unbolt the top shock bolt and pivot the shock back (REMEMBER to put a support block under the rear wheel so it's not pulling on the rear brake hose!!!) 8. Unscrew the carb throttle top and work it out. A flathead screw driver tapped on lightly with a hammer will loosen it. Careful not to bend the needle jet. 9. Loosen the hose clamp on the front of the carb on the rubber reed block. 10. Now you can work the carb loose. It should still have the fuel hose and rubber airbox hose connected to it. 11. Loosen the four screws on the bottom of the carb and separate the float bowl from the carb. Careful with the gasket. 12. There's two jets in there, the main jet and the pilot jet. main jet removed with a 6mm (?) wrench. Pilot is recessed in a tube and can be removed with a small flathead screw driver. Unless you absolutely need to, don't mess with taking the needle out of the carb throttle top. The TK's have a weird needle/ cable holder arrangement. Just clean it good with carb cleaner. 13. After you've got the jets and float out, clean it good with arrisol carb cleaner and blow out all of the orrifices with with compressed air. Make sure the holes in the jets are clear and not simply scaled over with varnish from the gas. Good reason to not use gas with alcohol in it. 14. Put it back together in reverse order. There is a vent overflow nipple the bottom of the carb. It causes a lot of muck in the space under the exhaust. If you run a small rubber tube from that nipple down behind and under the engine, it will keep the carb from venting onto the top of the engine and will keep things a lot cleaner. Clean the air filter while you've got it apart. Hot water and dish soap works great. Let it dry and oil it up lightly with motoroil. Squeeze out the excess. 15. It's a good idea to put on one of those small inline fuel filters while you've got the thing apart. Keeping crap out of the carb will help ensure you don't have to get back in there very often. I hope I've remembered everything. If not, you should be able to figure it out. Good luck.

Years ago a kind member wrote down the steps to tear down the bike & carb, how to clean it using carb cleaner & electrical wire rather than compressed air then how to reassemble everything, have a search under Scorpa & I’ll see if I can also find it takes a little time & once done leave fuel tap on for 10 minutes before kicking over in my experience with the Scorpa will need doing on a regular basis so you will become quite proficient at it good luck, great bikes once set up & running properly

Splash it all over social media Gazza73 & hopefully someone with a sense of honesty will recognise the $cum & you can tell GMP who they are