cdn280

Good stuff ! I can follow along as I do mine and feel free to ask for any photos etc. Mine is also a M21 but with left side shift. And speaking of photos, things have changed here since I was last here, and I can't find where this rich text editor option is so I can attach photos. Didn't see it in any settings page like the help says it is.

I've got a 2008 with the vent built into the cap. Pretty sure the family jewels broke off the plastic nub the vent line goes on during a sudden stop. JB welded the piece back on but knocked it off again a couple rides later and lost the hose with nub this time. Guess I'll try to JB a little piece of tube or something on it in the meantime. Anyone know of an aftermarket replacement ? I checked before I fixed it and it was about $50US shipped so I don't really want to pay that for another easily breakable part. Looks like the part I need is the only piece of the cap you can't buy separately, and the only part that looks like its breakable. (marketing genius) Part #16 in the fiche. BT280420010 Another piece I'd like to get a couple spares for is the rubber grommet for the clutch master cyl. Both bikes I've had popped it out and won't stay back in. You can't buy just the grommet. It comes with the adjuster pieces too. BT27722208 and BT280422209 (called pump sets) Is there an AJP parts supplier ?

Now theres an idea. Thanks !

Thanks for that. But that would be 4.76mm. I thought I saved some of the grotty originals but the only ones I have measure 6.3mm. Can anyone else verify a metric size or is the only standard sized part in an otherwise metric bike ?

Hi. I'm rebuilding an M21 Cota 247. Anyone know what size the balls are in the steering head ?

Can you post a pic of your setup and tell me what was needed to get it to work ? I'm restoring one now but the front brake was seized solid and the backing plate broke during removal.

My vintage project needs front axle seals. The ones found in it are 24x35x4 mm. Are these the right size for OEM ? Its hard finding anything narrower than 5.

Thanks for the link! Looks like they have what I need.

Does anyone have any contacts for some 1974ish Montesa Cota parts ? I'll probably need some clutch plates and would like to buy some engine gaskets rather than have to make them. I may be needing a fibreglass or replica seat/tank as well depending on how my attempt to repair it goes.

I've had a 2002 280 and now have a 2007 250. The newer one does have easier hot starting (but its smaller and the jetting is a bit different too) and will start in any gear with the clutch in. (when using ATF for gear lube) I've shown a couple others who had starting probs with theirs a technique that works great, and thats to engage the kicker gear at TDC as someone else said and then use a quick push on that stubby kickstart lever instead of a big jump up and follow though like you would on a big 4T. The short length of the lever and low turnover speed of the kicker gears seems to be the culprit. If you do it right the kicker may not even hit the footpeg. If you are whacking it the peg real hard it wouldn't be doing the kicker mechanism any good. Make sure you have the lever in the proper position on the spine to get the most rotation. If it doesn't work, then your pilot jetting may need some tweaking. All my buddies Sherco's have a much longer lever with a higher kickover speed and start super easy without any special 'methods'.

See the poll in >> http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=17883 Nothing richer than 50:1 listed... For a few yrs now, I've been using 70-80:1 for straight trials work and 50-60:1 for trail riding where I can actually use 5th or 6th gear

A good blow on a pointy object would be like hitting a brick with a chisel to a cast piece. Not quite the same effect on aluminum or steel tubing. I can see using cast pieces where there isn't much chance of flex, but quality of todays cast pieces seem to be going downhill don't you think? Some KTM950's are breaking the case around the kickstand mount too, and I've seen some horrible castings on some Huskie parts.

Thanks, don't know how I missed that... I must be new with computers or something. Oddly it looks like the same spot in the swingarm that broke on Billy Burns ISDE 300EC. Maybe cast alloy isn't such a great idea for a swingarm, or frame members period, like the Suzuki GSXR frame thats known for breaking.

What video ??

I've lost the slide on tank bolt nut before as well. Lost in the frame/wiring somewhere... The good thing is the clip is cheap, or you can get a body panel clip from somewhere that will also work.

Just curious, what oil mixture are you using to get enough oil in there to start a fire ?

Are you sure its a t25 Jon? I used one and thought it was a tad loose, but tried a t30 and it was obviously too big so I gave it a go.... doh, it started to strip. (it was pretty tight from the factory) Looking thru my stash of torqz bits for another t25 I happened to find a t27 (which i didn't know i had) and was able to tap it in but the soft brass was too far gone to even use it. Next thing was tapping in an allen key while cleaning out the bits of brass. Now I'm back to an allen fitting that works ! What the hell is the point of 1 silly torks fitting on the bike anyway when the allen worked before ?

Guess the next step is to make sure the float level is ok, it should pee out fuel if leaned over on its left side. Maybe a new needle/seat would help too. I adjusted the float height on mine as it didn't seem like it was closing the needle/seat even when the float was fully raised. I changed it about 1mm so it would close sooner and it was better. No problem with fuel starvation. For the spark plug, only ones that are gas or oil fouled will will spark up the side where its finding a path of lesser resistance. Is it smokey after it warms up? I had to lean mine out by opening the air screw to about 3 - 3.5 turns and then ended up raising the clip 1 notch (leaner) and set the air screw in a bit to about 2.5 before starting wasn't a real issue. I don't think you said what oil mixture you were using, but 50:1 should be the richest needed with a synthetic oil. I've always used 70-80:1 for normal trials stuff and up to 50:1 only when trailing it at higher speeds.

My 2008 came with a factory black plastic version of the same type of adapter. Much easier to get on.

My previous 2002 280 was also sometimes hard to start. Check the plug wire as mentioned and also check the gap on the ignition pickup which should be .4mm. Before I finally got a starting ritual down I also found leaning the bike over til it peed out some gas helped when it was very cold. Maybe it needed a slightly richer pilot, but I found it was better after turning in the air screw a half turn or so. On that bike the ritual was an easy kick through to clear things out, then choke on and 1 or 2 quick stabs on the kicker. By quick stabs, I mean a short fast kick, not a jump up and slam down with all your weight until the kicker SLAMS on the footpeg. The kicker doesn't have a lot of leverage, nor does it spin the engine very fast. The same kicking method applies to my 2008 250, but on it when its warm I don't need the choke when the engine is cold and the air temps are warmer. Once it fires I play with the choke for a couple seconds until it accepts throttle. Using this method is a lot easier on my foot without the slamming, and the lever rarely hits the peg any more.

Ok, I'll bite. Moto Merlin 08 TXT 250 Pro

Has extreme ever peaked in anything? Seems like everything these days goes from innocent fun with the bar getting pushed ever higher until it becomes death defying. Once it kills a couple people then it gets banned. I'm surprised nothing happened on the indoor scene after that video of the guy falling off the 30' waterfall came out.

White smoke = antifreeze burning Blue smoke = oil burning Clouds of either = rebuilding to see whats going on

Thanks Jon. As it says you are a site supporter, I was assuming you are Jon Stoodley ?? I would have tried lowering the clip a notch, but it came with it 1 notch lower than the middle already.

I've just gone from a 2002 280 to a 2008 250 and the softer bottom power is just what I needed for better traction. I had a 10tooth countershaft and slow throttle on the 280, but the 250 with an 11tooth and fast throttle is sweet. Its easier to control the lowend power and even my wheelie balance distance instantly doubled. Jon, I've only got a few hrs on it, but with premium pump gas (91 octane in my area) and the ignition in rain mode, when pulling higher rpm it sounds like its pings a bit. In sunny mode, it doesn't sound near as bad. It looks like its got a thinner base gasket. Have you noticed this ? Should I try a thicker base basket or a head spacer ? btw - I changed to the 120 mainjet that also came with it and the plug looks good. It was shipped with a 118 in it and looked a bit light. I'm also using 50:1 Ipone at the moment and would go back to 80:1 like I was using on the 280 but the manual is now suggesting 2% (50:1) Whats your view as this would also richen the fuel mixture ?