cdn280

Looks like a pretty slim tank and doesn't look like there is a gas cap here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/washburnsurfer/2383195396/ Its still some nice piece of hardware though.

Only after I screwed my right foot up and was starting the bike with my left leg did I discover that the engine actually fires faster and without the WHACK on the footpeg if you get the kicker engaging at the very top of the stroke and kick the bike with a real quick jab instead of the usual jump and followthru method. Try it and see.

The price spread is not as bad here in Canada, but I believe one turnoff will be the 1+ litre fuel tank and the fact you have to take 2 screws out to get the cover off to get at it.

Why thanks I guess ... oh, you said my bike.

Moved down to a 250 from a 280, for a softer power, but mostly for some handling improvements, and the main reason was the wife was ok with the update... hehe http://www.flickr.com/photos/washburnsurfer/2358219750/ The bike was a bit of a shock at first. It was thought that it would be the non-homologated one with the led headlight, but it turned out to be a homologated version with the hi/low beam headlight and all the other street bits except no lean jetting or catalytic head pipe. Some immediate things I've noticed from my old 2002 model. - the front end definately holds a line better and it not so easily washed out or deflected - the kick starter ratchet is different and makes for a little better kick over - slightly more weight on the front makes lifting the back wheel during hopping or a stoppie easier (or maybe its just the fresh suspension) but the back end does seem lighter picking it up and the one piece silencer/muffler feels solid when picking the bike up with it. - the carb has a plastic extender on it that makes the new seat/airbox connection much easier to re&re and line up. - the softer power seems to work better for the low traction places I ride, and I haven't tried the 10tooth sprocket that also came with the bike or a slow throttle tube yet. I've got a couple questions though... 1 - not that I'll leave it on the bike, but, as it was on my 300EC, the speedo works and lights up, but the tach doesn't. What wire needs to be connected ? Silly item on a trials bike I know, but I'll leave it on to see what the thing actually idles at and revs to. 2 - it came with a gold IRIS chain. I've read a few bad things about the IRIS brand, is this one any better ?

Confusing only to a Beta rider ?? Seriously, what do you need to know ? Theres a picture floating around (GG US maybe?) showing the gearbox and how the 4 gears produce a 6 sd. Same shift pattern as any other bike, 4 less gears than all the other 6sp gearboxes to do the same job, and a lot less weight. Ride it like a trials bike and not an mx'er, change the oil, and it'll be fine. ps - my 2002 Pro was the first version of this new gearbox and is just fine Thanks. So good that a friend bought it and I ordered a 2008. He commented he liked it better than another friends 2007 Sherco he rode just before it.

One circlip with washer. Should come straight off unless the shifter return spring is really out of whack and making it stick. Search this site for the service dvd files and download the parts fice for your bike from GG. They are free.

Sounds to me like its the tophat thing under the the return spring. You really need to take it off and examine if the keyway piece in it is actually broken or not. I was sure my transmission was buggered once, as it still shifted sometimes but the shifter would also slip around a few degrees when it didn't shift, but it turned out the keyway didn't fall completely out so it kind of shifted like you describe. Pop the tophat off and try some needle nose pliers on the keyway piece. It just might fall out like mine did. $20 (or equivalent) for the part I think.

Just to rule out a few things... can you shift gears normally with the engine turned off and rocking the bike forward/backward a little to help engage the gears? Does the shifter feel normal when you do this? ie: does it have the spring back to the neutral position, or does it feel like there is something preventing it from springing back ?

A 250, 280 and 300.

Maybe I should change my nickname now, but the older 280 is gone and the new non-homolgated 250 should be here in a week or so. I'm just curious what the euro homologated version runs like.... I see the bulge on the head pipe (cat converter?), and I'm assuming its got ultra lean jetting like what my 300EC came with in its spares package (with an extra cat pipe too)

Same little dilema I was facing. First real trials bike I've owned was a 280Pro (sold last week) which took a bit of time, a little jetting tweak, and a 10T front sprocket and slow throttle for me to feel more comfortable on it in slippery technical spots. Its always felt better in the more open or speedier sections. I've decided on a 2008 250(not Raga) after reading a couple reviews of the 2008 models. Where I ride there are rarely clean, dry grippy rocks, and this is where the 280 really felt best. If theres any moisture around its mossy rocks, slick roots, rocky streams or loose forest loam. I had to be very gentle on the throttle on the 280 to avoid wheelspin, and it appears that where the 280 spins to quickly (for me) with zippy hp, the 300 is verging on too much torque right off idle resulting in the same result, wheelspin. I'm thinking the softer power and the chassis changes they've made for better turning and front grip will help me improve the skills even faster. I'm hoping there is also the usual side effects of slightly less vibes and even easier starting with the smaller engine. Its hard to make the decision to not go with the bigger engines when the prices are all so close.

The name is something that seems to have not translated well. It covers all aspects of offroad/motard sport and is almost always the first out with the latest industry news, and interviews with the worlds best.

Yep, been reading it from the beginning. News is always incredibly recent with great interviews. The latest has a good one with the main GG guy (american) behind their EFI and the side valve engine(s). They do have oil pumps apparently and one may come out in an enduro version. Downloadable factory efi maps too.

I've been using Ipone Samarai for 2 yrs and is strawberry scented too. (supposedly Motul with the scent added) Its synthetic and good to 100:1. I use 80:1 in the trials bike and 50:1 in the enduro's. Both engines look great inside so I'm sticking with it. Best smelling bike in our indoor riding area !

I would be the last to advise an R1 as a first bike too, but assuming you have some bike experience (as you say you already test rode and liked the GG) there is a good chance that you will come to grips with the 300 .... eventually. I had lots of offroad bike experience before I got my 280Pro as a first trials bike, and I also had to change the sprocket & throttle tube to help me slow things down a bit. I'm sure starting on a 200 or a more planted clubman like 250 would have helped the learning curve, but after 2yrs! now I'm finally ready to put the stock 11tooth sprocket back on. I see now that leaving the 11 on would have been a better idea to smooth the power, but that was before I learned trials clutch technique. Besides the $900 savings, you also have the dualmap ignition which I'm sure will be left in the rainy setting. Ride it and let me know if you want to trade for a 280 !

I had to look seeing it was from the GG UK site. They (Shirt) are going to import it, plus its got a 2yr warranty !! http://www.gasgasuk.com/new/page1.htm

So they do exist? I thought I'd invented it in a drunken stupor two and a half years ago :-) If you search for Centrifugal Flywheel on google the first link is this one on TC, so I guess they're not the most common thing in the world. Centrifugal Flywheel What application would this be good for ? Improved torque at higher rpm? If at all, it seems like for any engine you would want the opposite effect.... more torque at less rpm, zippier throttle response at higher rpm. But the more I think about it, whats wrong with the same flywheel (torque) at all rpm ?

Look in your airbox and see if your filter is sitting in a pool of water. I have a working drain now after the same thing happened to me.

You can remove the pedal as mentioned, or you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the master cyl and pull it out of the way so the push rod from the pedal comes out. You can then put 1 bolt back in and use a philips scewdriver or small rod to push the piston much farther than you can with the pedal. I always have to do it this way or as you said you can pump forever and not get any pressure.

Not to mention the titanium header....

I'd go with 1 cap full. I used 2 caps in a 640 KTM and 3 caps in a VFR and it dropped the temp in the VFR by 8-9 degrees C. Now where did you get that tank/seat ! I think I recall it was France, but where and how much ? btw - the capacity is less than 1 litre

Before going any further read my post. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....8&hl=return The first time I looked at the return spring under the clutch, it looked fine, until I watched what it was doing while pushing on the shift lever. Take it completely off and make sure the key part of the hat the spring sits on is not broken.

Thats a first ! Now why would it work great on a trials bike, yet not a Honda or KTM ??