cdn280

I've been trying to find a happy rpm to shift into 5th, I think it may be best at lower rpm. The huge gap in gear ratio doesn't help the situation, for both the clunk or for trail riding. I think the standard model's gearbox makes it a better choice for trail work. The price we pay for having 4 low gears to choose from, and to save some weight I guess.

A magnesium swingarm? Has that been on the Raga for a while? Cases & hubs I know, but never seen that before. I thought my Pro was light...

Something I haven't done yet, but plan to, is to try brazing/welding the 4 spring clips in place with just a little bead to keep them from moving around or dropping off when you are putting the seat back on.

NOOO ! Torqued bolts on engine parts should be dry, no lube of any kind.

After meticulously cleaning everything and putting it back together with the old seals and Mobil1 ATF, I've done 2 1hr rides and no leaks... for now. I had some Mobil1 left over from a KTM fork oil change and thought I'd try it as it worked well there.

Hey Uhoh, how is the Idaho winter holding up? I'm looking for more too for both my 280 and my new 300EC which I will pick up this weekend. I'll be getting the larger Clark tank too, but I'll probably be looking for some kind of vessle to hold a couple more litres, which i can use for the 280 as well. Have you seen the 1.1 litre tanks that mount where the numberplate goes? I want a little more than that, but its one method to get another litre you wanted. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/pages/2003/for-bike.html

I just did mine on my 02 Pro using the same technique. Pulling the fork tube from the slider took a few good yanks (clank, clank) for the seal to release and for them to separate. And I used a 2' or so length of 1.5" and 2" pvc pipe to drive in the original seals and wipers back in. The one previously leaky seal has stopped for now, and it was the easiest disassembly I've ever done since everything went to upside down forks. Check a manual for the quantity. Mine was 300cc.

Use the window as the guide. 350cc is for the PRO models only i believe. Thats what my 2002 takes. If it only took 500ml then you must have had 50ml still in the case in the nooks and crannies.

Thanks guys, I'll have to give it a try as mine only fully disengages when the lever is all the way in and it drags a bit when cold. My forefinger is getting over developed from all the exercise. Mike

Thanks Heath, and what are the symptoms that they need to be replaced ? Mike

I got my 2002 used with an 04 clutch already on it. Whats the story with the o'rings ?

Noisy as in clunky? or gear whine? Dexron ATF is what I use, and is recommended by GG and I only get a bit of whine in 4th-6th, but bottom gears are quiet. Maybe its just front sprocket whine... never paid much attention as I figured it was normal sounds. Remember the PRO uses the gearbox oil to lube the crank main bearings so change it often. That design and synthetic lets you get away with 80:1. I'm using Ipone at that mix. Nice strawberry smell too !

Thanks, I'm going to try the wet sanding if it causes any leaking. I just changed my fork oil and haven't seen it leaking ... yet. I only noticed it when I had them apart. A new tube is in the $200 range (less than 100 pounds), so its not as bad as I thought it might be.

Yes, but the spacers are just carbon glass fabric (almost asbestos like) and go between the protector and pipe. The clamps hold it together. I'm over the pond and ordered it while i was in the U.S. Took 2 days to get it by mail.

Its rather shiney. They told me it was the better of the Hebo and others they sell. It comes with carbon material spacers to keep it off the pipe directly. I like it. http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/washburns...re2.jpg&.src=ph

Your link that says 'clicky' for the trialsspartsusa link has the pic in the FOR BIKES section.

It would taken some sharp muck... more likely a brush against a rock or log. Ugh, i just realized what did it. The stand fell off a shelf in my trailer...

I've got a light scratch on one of the ti-nitride?? coated fork tubes. Is there a temp/permanant repair for this, or is it new tube time ? Full length neoprene gators or some other protection may be in my future.

I just got the $59 RSI one. I like it, no more burnt thighs.

Mine will spit out a few drips if I fill the coolant right up. It seems to like it just below the filler neck to make room for expansion.

No harm intended. Thats why i congratulated you ! The tongue is still stuck in the cheek. Hope it works out well for ya. If it makes you feel any better I'm now a spoiled old man.

Funny, all the same things I've asked about my 280 so far all in one note. - clutch rattle - main bearings lubed by trans oil - clunk into 4th/5th (probably due to the big ratio gaps) This could be a maintenance sticky.

Lucky rich young punk... i had to wait til I turned 50 for the wife to buy mine.... Congrats anyway young man, and I think GG says FROM 50:1 (for cheap oil), so don't choke the guy behind you while you are waiting for your section. It could lead us to no smoking outside like in California.

I've got the black throttle tube on my 280 Pro. I found the throttle response with the white one pretty wicked for my meager trials skills. It helped me a lot. It changes the rotation from 96? to 124degrees, so it needs more twist to get it wide open, but its the off idle control it really helps with. You can dial in the rpm you need much easier. I was getting ready to try other mods like a head spacer or ignition timing, but I think its fine now for me.

I put Boysen carbon reeds in a YZ motor once. It did run better than the stock ones, whatever kind of fibre they were. It has to do with them being more stable I think. (either open or closed, no flapping around aimlessly or something to that affect) I'm sure their website will tell you more.