cdn280

Nobody is willing to share their repair cd so far, and I've read that retarding the ignition timing can help with the need to run 95 octane (to maybe just normal premium 91 octane) and also soften the power a bit for me. (first real trials bike) So that leads me to my question.... can someone tell me how to go about doing this and check where what its set to now? Maybe need a flywheel puller, i would imagine ? btw - its a 2002TXTi

12.5cc or ml per litre = 80 to 1 (of a good synthetic) Runs as smokefree as possible and still have good lubrication.

Hi, being from Canukistan we don't get the repair/rebuild cd with a new bike, like the US does. Will anyone be so kind as to make a copy for me? (no I'm not a copyright cop) I'll pay for the cd & postage. Its a 2002 model. Please ??? PM me.

Update: the impleller shaft was polished good in 2 spots and felt like it had worn 2 grooves in it too. I replaced the shaft and seal. The new shaft was completely smooth, so the polished bit on the old one was not supposed to be there. All is well now and the AT oil stays clear (no frothing as someone mentioned) When the pump was off, I found if you pushed the shaft towards the outside of the pump the impeller would rub a bit on the housing, even with the drain bushing installed. After installing it on the case, I pushed the impeller inwards a couple mm to seat it in the drive slot (no more rubbing). I'm assuming that the pressurized system will tend to push the impeller and shaft that way anyway and keep it there. Has anyone else found this to be normal? There is no rubbing noise coming from the pump.

I'm replacing the pump seal and shaft right now too... same problem. Parts are ordered. - remove filler cap under the tank, undo brass allan plug on pump, spew coolant all over the place til you get the pan positioned right - remove hose clamps and hoses - remove 3 allan bolts holding the pump on - remove circlip holding it all together - with the brass plug out (also acts a bushing for end of the pump shaft) stick a screwdriver or something less sharp in the hole to hold the impeller while you turn the pump shaft to unthread it from the impeller. (left hand thread, mine was only finger tight) - pull the shaft out, then you can use a screwdriver or equivalent to gently pry out the seal. Note the way its put in (backwards to a normal case seal) Mine was missing a thrust washer inside the pump, which may be the reason its leaking now. (used bike) Mike