shipdamite

what sort of crafty cutting? cheers.

Thanks for the confirmation that two splitties is ok. I tried the lockwire, but it caught on the tensioner. I used gasket sealant to gloop it all together as per a suggestion from another. Thanks again.

Thanks for that Tony27.

http://yambits.co.uk/rd350lc-inlet-manifold-p-1327.html these ones? Yambits are both helpfull and reliable in my experience..

My TY175 didn't have the oil pump and the p/o had not blocked off the intake, although the pump area was properly blanked off. I just used a small section of pipe and a self tapper set in petrol proof sealant. the bike runs on 50:1 Castrol power 1 fully synth 2t oil. the bike is standard apart from boyseen reeds. it ran badly on the standard 25 p.j, slightly better on the 27.5 and now very well on a 30p.j - this also doesn't block up, where as the smaller jets did. otherwise, jetting is as per the book. I used the ty trials carb repair kit that had the o rings and gasket for the float bowl - that made a huge difference, as worn o rings let air bypass, messing up the mixture. I also burnt my whole exhaust out on a bonfire and repacked the end can - that made a really big difference to the running, as did a new airfilter - I use putoline filter oil for that. hope that helps. cheers Andrew

I might try the lockwire pliers on the split link. cheers!

Hello, I got back from work tonight and went to the bike shed as this issue has been playing on my mind, as something was plainly just not right. I put the bike on the stand and reconnected a link with a 2nd split link, to make the chain longer again and not just copying the length of the old chain ..... still too much slack in the chain, but the adjusters - as mentioned above - were hitting shock and not letting me use the whole cam for adjustment ...... Mrs Shipdamite came out and I bored her with the story ...... she said 'are the adjusters the right way round?' .... I said, 'ummmm, think so', but I drew the spindle and swapped them around .... guess what? full adjustment, and I can get the tension right! So, the adjusters do allow full adjustment - so I take back that comment about the adjusters (spindle hole didnt rectify itself at the same time though ;-] ... ). Moral of the story is - dont just count the links on a knackered chain and cut your new one, and dont assume that you have fitted everything the right way when you first get new bits if they are an integral part to a particular overall set up (if that makes sense) so ..... my last question on this particularly embarrassing (emphasis on ass) episode is .... is it ok to run with 2 split links?? Thanks Motovita ..... looks like a spare worth having. thanks for your inputs Andrew.

You might well have something there. The situation is complicated by the chain adjusters .... I bought some of those majesty adjusters from C.M and they had too large a hole for the spindle, so I had to fit make/some top hats to get this right. On some of the adjustment range, they foul on the shock bottoms due to additional width. So, looks like I need a new chain and some new adjusters. Sorry to be a complete p.i.t.a, but how many links will I need with 12/52 gearing and where is a good place for chain adjusters that fit? I emailed C.M quite a few times with no reply. I cant reuse the old adjusters as they were unserviceable. Thanks for the help so far.

Thanks both. OTF - 1'' of free flex is just about all that there is. 4T - that is basically the method I use for an endro bike. The problem is, as mentioned above, ........... the chain is set at the most (slack) adjustment that it can have, so it cant be set with more slack. I have a 13t front sprocket, but I dont want to have to resort to that. I have tried increasing the length of the chain with another link + a 2nd split link and it is then too long to get any adjustment. If 1'' is ok, then I am going to have to run with that .... it just seems like not enough play after what I am used to on the enduro bikes. Thanks again.

Hello, the chain and sprockets finally gave up the ghost so I fitted new matching 12/51 and a 428 chain. the chain has the same number of links as the old (stretched) one, but even on the longest adjustment, the chain seems tight to me. the old set up saw the tensioner rubber resting on the swingarm, whereas now, the gap is forefinger thickness. This seems the norm from what google images tells me, but to me it seems really tight, but it seems to ride better. I am used to enduro bikes, where the chain hangs like the proverbial hammock. what do you do and is the forefinger gap about right? I dont want to bust the gearbox! cheers Andrew

evening all, my rebuilt ty 175 engine was chucking out spooge despite sorting out the jetting. However, having burnt out the exhaust for a few hours on an open fire, then cleaning up with caustic soda, then coke (which made it all shiny inside), the spooge has stopped, the plug is a lovely colour and the silencer end is dry. the bike also sounds and runs much better. if in doubt ............................... ...................... burn it out ;-]

evening all, does anyone have any alternative/s to the oem rubber part that fixes over the chain side of the ty 175 swingarm? thanks Andrew

agreed. + the lionelli one on my gasser is very well made and has performed faultlessly whereas the apico one on my ty is a cheap copy and lasted no more than 7 hours before it refused to cut the engine. you get what you pay for. not the first time I have been dissapointed with apico stuff.

Hi Andy - I will defo try the forks through the yokes again. I have just used a set of ty clamps to raise my bars .... basically filed the top to take the slight camber out, turned them over and used them below the top clamp to raise them a bit ..... the turned bars slightly forward; seems easier to turn tight corners now! like the sound of what you have done though, will hav eto get another top yoke of eblag and have a play. thanks for the good luck! suffolk sounds good! still have to get to corton for a play.

Thanks Jimmie!!

Hi Andy - thanks! I read on the ty trials site that the longer rear shocks (as on my bike) needed the front forks to be flush with the top of the yokes. The bike came with that set up, but i did the drop then read about them being flush! I will see how it goes on sunday.... might do one lap 'as is' then drop at lunch time ........ need to make some risers I think (being over 6ft the bike is a bit small)........ cheers - Andrew

it'll be all the more worth it when you get home!

Jimmie - this as 'restored' as it gets! the chassis has all new bearings and bushes and the engine is almost new aside from cogs and cases ................ at least i know its as good as i can get it mechanically.

Thanks for the added input - I will stick with the 7 and see if it fouls at the first trial for the TY this coming sunday. This is the bike at last weeks shakedown at boghopper 350's place. the bike has all new chassis bearings and bush's and the engine has new almost everything aside from cog's and cases. it looks how it looks, but I know that it is mechanically all there. the tank was what was left after removing bad paint and half a tub of filler. there is a fairly good 'new' tank in the shed, but that will be kept in reserve. fyi, vinegar and coke will clean the inside of a rusty tank really well.

the 27.5 appears to have done the job! running well but the plug is dark brown - will try a B6ES.

hello all, nothing on the gasser for the last copla weeks ..................... I have been getting the TY shipshape! after an engine rebuild (wossner piston, relined cylinder, new rod, mains, big end, etc etc) i have been fine tuning and getting the jetting right. the attched image shows the bike in my back hall when the engine was a jigsaw- the tank is what was left after I had taken off the paint and a kilo of filler!

amazes me that there isnt a breather on the pro.............. lots of condensation from here. at both ends of the spectrum, my ktm 300 exc and ty 175 both have breathers. I might make one for the pro - easy enough to do.

bit of an update. a new 27.5 p.j arrived in the post today. fitted it, and the situation is much improved ................ this might sound odd, but the 'dongk dongk dongk' has lessened and has moved to the end can rather than in the middle part of the pipe. the a/s is on 1 turn out, so maybe a 30 could be tried. need to give it a good run at rtc central tomorrow and see what the plug looks like - I can't test at home too well as the 'backyard' is a wee bit small. also did a few other jobs too - finally feel its going to be a good bike. thanks for all your input. p.s if it all goes tits up tomorrow, will let you all know!

I have just remembered that the bike has boyeson reeds fitted - not sure if this would have a bearing on jetting or not (std jetting at the moment) I have just ordered a 27.5 p.j, so will see what that does. the haynes tells me that the 125 + 175 have an intake duct and a baffle tube in the air filter - dont know if this applies to both models though. my air filter has neither, although it does have a brand new oem cage and filter (originally it had a bit of mesh and some kitchen wash-up type sponge) my exhaust is standard (although a p.o had crimped the end of the baffle up! [this is now open]) thanks for your replies keep them coming - but hopefully the pilot jet is the key