i´v just bought and installed the CSP waterpump kit, everything is fine. but: now that there is a spacer, the waterpumpcover is a bit closer to the exhaust, so the coolant hoses touch the exhaust. i wonder, if one of you has the same waterpump installed and how you have solved this problem.
it was totally shot, crankshaft bearings knocked so loud, you couldn´t even hear the exhaust, the kickstarter didn´t go back by himself, silencer was welded to the rear frame, scratches everywhrere, rust whereever a part was that could rust
price 1700, but still too much for such a bad bike
we will have a look at it today, if it isn´t that bad and the price fits, my friend will think about it
he´s a beginner and uses it just for riding in the forest and so on, so he doesn´t need such a good end expensive bike, because it will surely get some more scratches
well, the price itself is for austria normal/not high; i bought a 2010 factory evo in mint condition for 3200€
thanks for the tipp with the tensioner, i called the guy yesterday and he doesn´t know anything about trials, so i think i got a good chance to get it for about 1800€. I´ll look at the normal things like bearings, noises, chain, fork seals. i´m sure i´ll find something at such an old bike
if it would have had a hard life, it wouldn´t matter that much because my friend is a beginner and will throw her away multiple time, i think ;D
it´s a special model from a local dealer who equipped her with new rims, tripple clamps, factory exhaust, overworked engine and suspension. it still has the original tires on it, which are nearly new
as far as i know from ´11 on they had black frames, so this one might be painted or a newer frame, how do i check this? black colour works great to hide cracks i think...
are there any engine noises which aren´t good or which are normal?
regarding the frame number: on which position is the year it´s made?
i think i know how to see if it´s the two bearings on the clutch side or the one bearing at the transmission side
if i pull the clutch, the noise doesn´t go away so it has to be the those two bearings on the clutch side, because if i pull the clutch, the shaft of the transmission doesn´t turn anymore but if the noise is still there it has to be the two bearings
I do have 2 problems taking my GG back togheter, it´s a 06 model
1: how does the MT300534008 cable of the stator have to be put in that it doesn´t brush at the rotor? i can´t put it behind the black box and if i put it in front of it, theres no chance that the ignition can produce power
2: i have such a washer (just as an example) an it has to belong in between the frame and the swingarm, i think. but i don´t know if it has to be on the right or the left side of the swingarm. the two bearings at the inside of the swingarm, which belong to the engine are already in place
Yesterday i took the engine togheter, to see if it's dense. Then i also tried with the skickstarter to pull it down. And i felt like it isn't harder than before. So may it be right, that the crank goes harder to turn than in another engine? The bearings are also harder to turn then for example the ones at my yz 250.
I rebuilt it because the bearing of the 5and6 gear failed.
Yes, i put the bearings first in the case, so that they line up with the case. and then i put the other half on (i put in the kick start feather correctly) and it went in normal. it spins normal when i don´t have the bolts tightened but if i tighten them, it´s hard to turn the crank and the gears. it also doesn´t make a gap when i loosen the bolts
Got another problem: if i tighten all bolts of the case halfs the crank does not spin easy, they spin but you have to turn pretty hard. The same is with the gears.
If i don't have the bolts tightened it runs as smooth as it should.
Csp Waterpump Impeller Aluminimum, Coolant Hoses Touch The Exhaust
in Beta
Posted
could have come to this solution by myself haha
thanks guys, the weather here is **** at the moment, so i couldn´t have ridden anyways