Interesting snippet: although the idea makes (engineering) sense, every trials manufacturer that has swapped the tank and the airbox has gorn belly up shortly after its introduction.
Yamaha seems to like the idea if you look at their 2010 YZ450F, and they even have a Cannondale reverse style cylinder ...titlted backwards just for triple summersaults!
I may have found a thing that could cause it, it seems to add up. A few weeks ago I disasembled the throttle cable bit next to the carb. Well I may have put it back together wrong, you see i put the needle on top of the gold piece instead of underneath, so this would mean the needle could stick up when the slide is down causing problems. I hope this is the problem as it is a nice cheap fix
10/10 for persevering but next time best get together with an older and wiser mate (..or your local dealer.)
At least now you have a clean exhaust and carb, and can take it apart with your eyes closed.
MC is correct.
Thanks for sharing your pain,
so others could gain,
but please refrain (from starting a thread the way you did)
If all these ideas have been applied before and nothing is actually a new idea anymore.......
Why such an outcry and negative responses to the Xispa? (Many of these when there was only a single developmental bike)
....It's one thing to apply proven ideas (wheels), implement them differently (add tyres), or even improve on them (put air in the tyres), but tracing paper, even smudging it a bit, is still tracing paper.
Best to try a 10t countershaft sprocket first as this will only require moving the rear axle forward on the snail cams, otherwise you may be looking for extra chain links.
However one tooth on the front is approx 4 on the back so proceed with caution in the nadgery.
So now the dilema will be deciding between the 09-125 Academy and the 09-125 Academy Racing, after all with those blue flames you must like blue right?
Not sure when you post a question on a Sherco forum why you get so may other well wishers trying to make life complicated with their other brand opinions.
If you already have a Sherco in the household it makes perfect sense to continue with the brand especially if you like the ergonomics which are very important to enjoying your ride. 95% of the parts will be interchangeable, and the Sherco design is improved incrementally year to year with any revised parts fitting the earlier models.
The 125 geometry will be very close to the 2.90 or 2.50, (some 125's have shorter swingarm) although the 125 will have a lighter feel when riding with the shorter stroke and lighter flywheel.
Just take your usual calm and collected approach to methodically check over the parts that you would expect to have had some wear and tear, and check the action of the rear shock. A ride up the road through the gears and a listen to the engine will tell you a lot, as will a good chat with the owner. Not always possible with e-bay so beware.
Unless there are a lot of used bikes available 1000 seems too good for an 05.
As previously suggested start by checking the clutch lever master cylinder reservoir.
Has the fluid level dropped?
Are the clutch hose connections tight and dry.
Once you have topped up and bled the system of any air then if same problem persists, try checking the condition of the o-rings on the clutch slave cylinder puck.
Any leaking fluid is not immediately apparent because of the o-ring seal between the slave cylinder and the crankcase.
Please let us know what you discover as these forums thrive on feedback.
In the Keihin with the SPS mods the main jet holder 'insert' has holes drilled on the top face which is inserted into the holder first with the spring pressure on the bottom retained by the main jet.
Please be careful that the other slide needle insert that sits in the throat of the carb doesn't twist or fall out when removing the main jet holder to remove the bowl.
Regular Sherco Keihins do not need the main jet holder removed to remove the bowl, but the SPS is different with the main jet sitting so low in the carb.
Caution also when removing the bowl not to force the overflow tube against the floats, as the bowl doesn't drop off, rather it needs a three handed hinge, twist, and slide movement!
Being as it is your first 4t then hopefully someone has advised you that it needs a different technique to start than the Caby replica.
Don't rush it - think it through.
You need a slower steady kick and hold, rather than a quicker stabbing kick as on the 2t.
Start by taking your hand right off the twistgrip just in case you are tempted to open it through habit as on 2t without realising it.
It may not need any choke unless really cold but will take longer to warm up than a 2t, after which you will be everybodies friend when it comes to drying (lhs) or burning (rhs) wet gloves.
If it doesn't start with zero throttle, then just open the throttle just a hair.
If it still doesn't start but sounds as if it is trying then hold the throttle half open, but get ready to shut the throttle off as soon as it fires into life.
Have you checked that the automatic decompressor is working fine?
Some people have better luck with different grades of petrol.
You may want to try starting with the bike on a bikestand (not the kickstand) until the procedure becomes 2nd nature, as then you wont have to balance while taking your time to follow the procedure.
Your results may vary. Everyones starting experience is different.
If all else fails then get with someone who is used to starting fourstrokes and can explain top dead centre.
Keep the carb and air filter spotless. There is a lot of engine to feed ..and no carb filter so keep an eye on the fuel tank tap filter screen.
You did not mention how the bike runs once started to narrow this down to just a starting issue.
Persevere as it is well worth it. The 4t takes a long time to break in and starting does get easier.
Please be sure to pass along sincere condolences to Howards family from all on this Sherco forum who have enjoyed his very knowledgeable postings and wry sense of humour.
While you have the carb off check that the breather hose on the exhaust side of the carb is in good shape as it can get close to the hot exhaust if the carb is twisted a little.
Better yet drill out (carefully) the same vent on the near side of the carb, but attach a short hose as the vent is horizontal and easy to get c**p in the carb without the hose fitted.
Since the tank design changed with the 06 black frame the petrol cap no longer has a one way valve so look to see if petrol is also sloshing out the breather hose depending on the way the hose is routed, and depending on your nose wheelie lean angle?
Before we start, anyone got any suggestions on what we should be looking for or problems we might find?
..sounds like the carb slide is stuck at the top of the carb and the return spring is unable to overcome the stiction - time for a good cleaning.
Check the throttle cable isn't pinched after the unplanned 'get off' - anytime before starting the engine always listen for the 'clunk' of the slide hitting the idle screw at the bottom of the carb bore, .
Any tips on getting the carb off/on (the last time we took it off it was a real pig to get back on)?
Don't separate the carb and the airbox, just loosen the inlet manifold hose clamp, and remove as a complete assembly, making the alignment much easier on re-assembly.
If you must split the two then loosen the rearmost clamp that squeezes the carb hose onto the airbox outlet, but not the one clamping the hose to the carb (pigs snout!)
We'd really appreciate any advice.
..always listen to Copemech, ..and take a look at the sticky service manuals at the top of this forum
2010 Sherco
in Sherco
Posted
Yamaha seems to like the idea if you look at their 2010 YZ450F, and they even have a Cannondale reverse style cylinder ...titlted backwards just for triple summersaults!