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snap1

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  1. Thank both, in that case the scratch will prop cause a slight leak but I was not aware about the fork bush I just reused the old one and have really checked play :-( It could be a mixture of both causing the greater leak I will check play when I get home, thanks for sending me on the right road!
  2. Thanks chaps, I did have a little trouble getting the old seal out and had to file a slight scratch, I did not know about the super glue trick, does that always work? Will a little scratch have this effect, it's not a gouge? I will also have to see if I can de-contaminate the pads as I've already bought 2 sets :-(
  3. Hi, I've replaced the fork seals and I'm still getting leakage on the left fork, yes the one with the calliper on... So I suffer in competitions with a poor front brake which makes life difficult. Oil and pads don't work well :-( I've not got the money to look at new forks but am thinking about draining the oil out of the left fork to prevent the pads getting soaked in oil again! Does anybody have any advice on this, what action would you take? How bad will this affect fork performance vs brake performance. Thanks in advance! Paul
  4. Hi, Thought I would report back as things look positive. So first time out on the bike on a proper run, and first club trial! Seem to have lost the over running high rev issue, and idle hunting is very manageable now. I changed the flywheel side crank seal and lifted the carb needle, I presume the seal helped more than lifting the needle. Thanks again for all your help, really appreciated. If the issue arrises again I have plans of how to tackle thanks to your suggestions. Cheers Paul
  5. Thanks neo, I was getting mixed up with a liquid leak down test when you meantioned before to test rings etc :-/ sorry. Thanks for the tip with the spark plug and breather!
  6. I have raised the needle, checked jets with Chris and also done the flywheel seal so far. Not had much of a chance to try it it but was out at a new venue going steady and I have not experienced the overrun yet. Time will tell... Chris told me to try a full pressure check, block exhaust port with a piece of plastic and make a bung for the inlet manifold which will check more than the crank seals, which makes sense. BTW the flywheel crank seal was not visually bad at all...
  7. Just spending some time reading through the forum, and discovered a thread on mixture ratios. The shop I bought the bike from told me to run a 50:1 mix so I mix up 100ml to 5l where others are running a 70:1 Could my bike have been setup for a different mixture by the previous owner? What are the effects of too much oil in the fuel could this add to my lean run on issues? Thanks yet again.
  8. Thanks chaps, I think I will order a larger pilot, to see if I can cure idle but as Steve says it's easy to become obsessed with getting it just right :-) The annoying over revving is the goal and I have even had the shop say it's more than likely crank seals, especially the flywheel side. So I'm now the proud owner of a flywheel puller and two crank seals, oh and a new gear leaver as I was in the shop with all these shiny objects in front of me... I'm planning to ride Wednesday then will fit the seals, I'll post back any results. Cheers Paul
  9. Thanks, just found this out as the float arm housing itself is lower than the quoted 24. I measured 18 with the carb upside down which is a closed reading in that case? Some other facts to add are: Pilot 33 Main 120 Atomiser 270k Choke 60 Float valve 250 Needle 36 on second setting from the bottom. So do I need to try different jets if my float height seem to be fine? Also not sure how crank seals could be the problem if running on choke is fine? Thanks chaps
  10. Thanks, I should not have dismissed searching the web for that answer doh! I will check these now.
  11. Thanks Steve, I do enjoy working on the bike so may just do them :-) Today I have adjusted mixture but no difference. I did try to ring Chris but no answer yet. I don't know if it tells us much but on choke the bike runs perfect. Does anyone know where to measure the Dellorto float heigh and what it should be?
  12. Thanks Steve, I found the blog (linked) and it makes sense about the float height effecting the mixture, I presume this would help more with the high revving after releasing the throttle (lean) rather than fixing any idle issues? It does mention that the dellorto carbs can flood the engine due to no overflow so I'll need to be careful. Neo, regarding the pilot jet, thanks I shall keep this in mind. Will call Chris tomorrow, I'm a keen fan of splatshop :-) ALSO - If the crank seals were to have gone, would I not pick this up in a compression test rather than having to rip the engine apart to find? Just wondering if it's easy to diagnose? Regards Paul
  13. Thanks neo, My understanding of fuel octane is the lower the RON the quicker burning (flame front), I know when advancing the timming people use higher octane to control pinging. But I am not sure the effects of introducing a quicker burning fuel, is this to aid retarded timming? Could you kindly explain your understanding of going for lower octaine fuel please? Also where or how do you obtaine 91, in the UK it's 95 standard upto 99. Thanks Paul
  14. Neo - thanks I will baseline the carb then play around with the mixture to check the outcome. I'm running 95 RON and did think about the octane, raising/lowering. Copemech - sorry just re read my post think I missed the crucial word :-) "all carb seals are done". So I have not done crankshaft yet, I'm try the cost/time effective process of elimination first. I can ensure that the carb is clean and air tight, also the inlet and reed housing. The only element of the carb I have not completed is the mixture setup.
  15. Good evening all, I am experiencing a very similar issue and wondering if dixon ever sorted it out? I don't experience the climbing revs on its own but do get the idle hunting and occasionally have to use the clutch/brake to return the engine from revving high when HOT e.g. Climbing a hill the ease off the throttle at the top, but the engine continues to rev high which does not end well for me :-) I am competent in mechanics and have replaced all seals, fuel filters/ lines, inlet seals both sides, cleaned tank. But still get the issue, I don't know the history of the bike but looking to understand what to try next before ripping the engine apart.... Things I've NOT done that I'm suspicious about are reeds (seemed ok?) carb setup (not a expert) but would mixture etc cause such issues like this? Also hear people retarding the ignition on these bikes? What would you kindly suggest I focus my attention to next? Many thanks in advance. Paul
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