Sorry bud, can't give you comparative feedback - never owned a GG. I just got the '12 Evo250t after a '04 Rev3, only ridden it about 30 mins and I'm already loving it.
When I took off the cylinder head I found these strange combustion/burn patterns (underside of head) and what looks to me like some sort of "blow by" past the head gasket. Now, when I last assembled the head I used a brand new gasket and I torqued the bolts to the specs given by the Beta manuals.
Can anyone explain these?
Does it have a correlation to my hot running engine?
I'm not familiar with all the online shops that sell these, I could only find a costa parts impeller for a sherco, I need rev3... where can order online that will ship international?
I would also consider putting in the costa parts aluminum impeller kit. I installed the kit on my rev and it works better that the plastic stocker.
After getting it all back together with no major issues (I've added more pictures to the previously posted album of the work done), I noticed the bike running hot (I posted about this elsewhere http://www.trialscen...ns-a-beta3-270/) , so I went through the jetting steps and found the spark plug running white at half throttle. Dropped the clip from the top to the bottom to get rid of the white, but still having a hot running bike (the frame, silencer, even the swingarm gets warm).
So I opened the water pump cover to see if the impeller was turning with the kickstarter, and it did. Eventually noticed that the work I did the first time round to fix the corrosion, was coming apart!
I've cleaned it up again, very thoroughly, taking my time, using acetone multiple times. This time I'm going to use Pratley Steel putty which seems to be more suited to this job.
The images of the job so far:
@magicmat At which point do you decide it is too far? The corrosion didnt go all the way through the cases; ie, taking the case off and looking at the other side it looks perfect.
I retract what I said in my prev. post re. the spark plug color! That was light choc brown; for up to 1/4 throttle.
I had the bike on it's side and was able to pull the water pump cover with minimal coolant loss. Moving the kickstarter shows that the impeller does turn; first thought: how effective is that impeller!?
Then, I pulled off the carb and cleaned it thoroughly. I didnt get the impression that anything was blocked or worn.
I did the carb tab and tangs adjustment as per Billy Traynor's notes found elsewhere on this site.
I then continued jetting the carb.
Turning the air screw has little effect; ie, there isn't a peak anywhere, just a slow general raise of revs as I continue to screw out. This I understand indicates that I need a smaller pilot jet. Regardless, setting the air screw at about 2.5 turns out and doing a 1/8 throttle opening ride and engine kill reveals a decent looking spark plug color.
Onto the needle which had the clip in the top position. Did a 1/2 throttle run and chop. Didn't feel like the bike was running funny. Had to wait for the bike to cool down, but not too much. Spark plug white.
So then I dropped the clip two positions (into the middle position). Did a 1/2 throttle run and chop, bike felt like it was running sligtly less clean. This time the bike was much hotter, silencer too hot to touch, mostly everything else. Spark plug STILL white.
I took the airbox off and had a look at the boot between it and the carb, no obvious cracks.
Soooo, drop the clip two more positions and call it a day. Will test it in the afternoon after being a spectator at a local event...
With all the needle clip changes I started to wonder how important is it to have a good seal where the throttle cable joins the carb?
Edit:
Carb:
?2.5 ehm, I think this was the float valve
27.5 Pilot
140 Main Jet
2.0 Slide
5C23 Needle
Temp here: 20-30'C (summer)
Altitude: +- 1440m
RE: TIMING
I read up on the timing thing; it seems that if advanced, one would find higher temps andkickbacks on the kickstarter. I don't have the kickbacks, but I do have the temps. Or am I just pedantic?
I've searched around for a guide/howto on checking /adjusting the timing, but found none, any help? (I've never done such a job)
Before the rebuild the spark plug gave me the impression of an almost too rich carb. I didnt change anything ito the carb settings; could it maybe be that a different cylinder gasket thickness would cause this change, or the ones around the intake valves?
I didnt actually check to get the same ones, just new ones...
I've recently finished taking apart and rebuilding a '05 Rev3 270 I got my hands on.
I went out today for the 2nd time after that (woot! loving it! ), and when I got home (rode home, 3rd/4th gear low/medium revs) I noticed how hot the bike was. The pipe is extremely hot, then the engine, the frame and fuel tank area was warm, so the silencer and even the swingarm!
Is that normal ??
(It has new coolant topped up. The fan comes on. The bike runs fine once warmed up, no issue to report. No coolant came out the overflow, ie no boiling that I know of.)
The only thing I can think of is: the bike had water pump area corrosion that I fixed up, so I'm wondering if the impeller is spinning; how would I be able to check that?
I have a similiar problem currently, and was wondering if it would work to make a pratley putty steel mix on the head of the stripped bolt, then use a socket to shape the mixture, and then let it set.
when it is hard, the socket should fit on a shaped and hardened area?
Rear Mudguards 2012
in Beta
Posted · Edited by eugenevd
I found the other post you mentioned: http://www.trialscen...on-the-2013-4t/