eugenevd

So, my bike seems to be running very hot and I thought to inspect the impeller if it not maybe spinning freely from the shaft. Then I noticed.... the damn epoxy I used to build up the corroded areas became soft and started to break loose... also the hammerite was coming off!! The epoxy is rated -35'C to 150'C - is that not enough? Or could it be the coolant (Motul Motocool Organic) that's causing this? Man I'm so dejected, I'm going to have to redo the entire job

I retract what I said in my prev. post re. the spark plug color! That was light choc brown; for up to 1/4 throttle. I had the bike on it's side and was able to pull the water pump cover with minimal coolant loss. Moving the kickstarter shows that the impeller does turn; first thought: how effective is that impeller!? Then, I pulled off the carb and cleaned it thoroughly. I didnt get the impression that anything was blocked or worn. I did the carb tab and tangs adjustment as per Billy Traynor's notes found elsewhere on this site. I then continued jetting the carb. Turning the air screw has little effect; ie, there isn't a peak anywhere, just a slow general raise of revs as I continue to screw out. This I understand indicates that I need a smaller pilot jet. Regardless, setting the air screw at about 2.5 turns out and doing a 1/8 throttle opening ride and engine kill reveals a decent looking spark plug color. Onto the needle which had the clip in the top position. Did a 1/2 throttle run and chop. Didn't feel like the bike was running funny. Had to wait for the bike to cool down, but not too much. Spark plug white. So then I dropped the clip two positions (into the middle position). Did a 1/2 throttle run and chop, bike felt like it was running sligtly less clean. This time the bike was much hotter, silencer too hot to touch, mostly everything else. Spark plug STILL white. I took the airbox off and had a look at the boot between it and the carb, no obvious cracks. Soooo, drop the clip two more positions and call it a day. Will test it in the afternoon after being a spectator at a local event... With all the needle clip changes I started to wonder how important is it to have a good seal where the throttle cable joins the carb? Edit: Carb: ?2.5 ehm, I think this was the float valve 27.5 Pilot 140 Main Jet 2.0 Slide 5C23 Needle Temp here: 20-30'C (summer) Altitude: +- 1440m RE: TIMING I read up on the timing thing; it seems that if advanced, one would find higher temps andkickbacks on the kickstarter. I don't have the kickbacks, but I do have the temps. Or am I just pedantic? I've searched around for a guide/howto on checking /adjusting the timing, but found none, any help? (I've never done such a job)

i'm thining the same thing. I had a real close look at that hole and it seems to be manufactured that way...

Can anyone please help identify this circuit, mine seems blocked. I've tried to find a diagram that gives description of that orifice, but no luck. It supposed to be blocked? Mikuni VM series round slide carb (Beta Rev3 270 '04)

Pulled the spark plug: Before the rebuild the spark plug gave me the impression of an almost too rich carb. I didnt change anything ito the carb settings; could it maybe be that a different cylinder gasket thickness would cause this change, or the ones around the intake valves? I didnt actually check to get the same ones, just new ones...

If I lay the bike on it's side before taking off the water pump cover, will I be able to not lose all the coolant?

Hi trialistas! I've recently finished taking apart and rebuilding a '05 Rev3 270 I got my hands on. I went out today for the 2nd time after that (woot! loving it! ), and when I got home (rode home, 3rd/4th gear low/medium revs) I noticed how hot the bike was. The pipe is extremely hot, then the engine, the frame and fuel tank area was warm, so the silencer and even the swingarm! Is that normal ?? (It has new coolant topped up. The fan comes on. The bike runs fine once warmed up, no issue to report. No coolant came out the overflow, ie no boiling that I know of.) The only thing I can think of is: the bike had water pump area corrosion that I fixed up, so I'm wondering if the impeller is spinning; how would I be able to check that? Thanks Eugene