scot taco

Is this the correct way to mount the rubber intake boot to the airbox on a 199a? If so,does the flat side of the mounting plate face down,up or to one side? I want it the correct way before I start drilling holes in a new airbox.

The rear hub looks like the same one on my 74 Pursang.

Thanks for the quick reply guys.That told me all that I wanted to know and those are what I,m going to order.Now all I need is better weather,-27F here today with the windchill.

OK,thanks for the reply robf.

What is the difference between the Gaerne balance classic and the oiled brown leather boot? Is one better or more waterproof than the other?

I did some more searching because I thought that I had seen that first pic before.I found it again on a website twinshock club by Patrick.Very neat looking bike.

A couple that I googled.

Thanks to everyone for the information.I will relay to my friend.I don,t really care for it and after getting the facts on it would probably pass on it for the 700.00 asking price.

This is on a somewhat local listing for sale as a "UK" trials bike.Pretty sure it has a non stock seat,but don,t think I,ve ever seen one.Is it Chinese? A friend of mine is interested in it.

Looks like it,s coming along nicely.What is the kickstart lever from?

I think they are because they also list a set for fat bars.

I thought these might be of some interest to some of you.They were on a sight named extreme yz and I came across them when looking for a set of bars for my IT175.They are also available from Dennis Kirk.They are not cheap (85.00 us),but I think I might get a set to try on the Sherpa T.They raise the bars 2" and can be rotated forward.

Very cool!! I,ve seen how tubed tires are set up for ice racing with an old cut down tire as a liner,but how do you stud a tubeless tire? Do you just put the screws in and go? Thanks for the clip.

My first thought was a chrome or nickel but I like nelly1 idea better.Here are a couple choices.

It is a very nicely finished bike,but that is a crazy amount of money! Those are very nice looking bikes that both of you posted.I do like the slimline tank the best though and will probably just order one of those after I get the rest of the bike sorted over the winter.It is a bitsa bike with a first year Alpina frame and early round barrel 175 Alpina motor that will get a 250 top end. Woody,are the center of the rims on the slimline tanked bike powder coated red or painted? I have seen some of the Puma bikes with that done also and liked it enough to think about doing it to mine only maybe in black. .

How hard is it to find a decent homerlite fuel tank and were they any good as far as leaky gas cap? I,m going to need a tank for my next Sherpa t project and thought it would be kind of cool to find one of those.I never seem to find any good slimline tanks on ebay and my only other option for one of those is one from Shedworks.

I probably have no business commenting because I have never owned a modern trials bike.I have been kicking around looking for a used one though and the biggest thing I see is reliability.Are any of these bikes as reliable as my trusty KDX? After cruising the forums on the various different modern brands it doesn,t seem so,except for maybe the Honda.I would think that if you came out with a new bike that had no teething problems and in two years time was known to be stone reliable that it would sell. I would think that it wouldn,t have to be super trick,just work as it should for a long time and not cost an arm and a leg.I would guess,though, that the last post by atomant is probably spot on.

Pickle,tell your Dad that he did a great job restoring the Greeves! Keep the classic pics comimg laird,I really enjoy seeing the history, thank you!

Sounds fun.What is the weather like over there? Also,let us know how the shocks work. Have fun and keep the rubber side down.

Thanks again for all the input.I will report back when I put it back together.I did forget to mention that there are a total of 12 plates,is that correct? I like the idea of riding it in the yard before putting the cover back on.I had the one on my Ossa off three times in a day trying to get it right. I will probably get a set of Barnetts,but I will check my spares first because I do have a 175 Frontera motor thats waiting to be turned into a 250 for a slimline sherpa project.Maybe the plates in it are straight. That is a nice KTM pschauber.It would be a nice ride to work,but I,m afraid I would get to many tickets!

OK,I had a little time to get out in the garage to clean and inspect everything.I think I might have a few problems. One is possibly the bent studs in the clutch hub.It looks to me that three of them are off.Thank you Woody,that is something that I did not know or think of to check. Also I found two of the clutch plates are warped,although I,m not sure of the best qay to check.I started by laying them on a piece of picture frame glass and then held the ones that were warped against a flat one to compare.Thanks Feetupfun. I also pulled out the pushrod assembly to check it out as pigbog and pschauber suggested and it seems ok.The ends of the two rods that meet the ballbearing are in nice shape.The ball is 5.5mm.The pushrod is 187.3mm in length and the whole lot - push rod,ball and end rod are231.7mm in length.Thanks guys. I,ve added a few pics of everything just for grins.I think I need to polish the hub and basket and either replace the warped plates (I might have some old ones somwhere) or get a new set? Then straighten the studs.

By correctly adjusted I mean that I first set the pressure plate free play by running the adjustment bolt in until it makes contact with the pushrod then back it off a quarter turn then tighten the lock nut.I then adjust free play at the hand lever to about an eighth inch. The plates did push out squarely,but didn,t seem to push out real far,but maybe it shouldn,t? When I had the sparkplug out and pulled in the clutch lever to kick it through and check for trueness/spring adjustment it would drag and turn the clutch basket every second revolution or so. When it goes back together and I put the springs back in I usually run the nuts down so they are flush with the end of the stud.I then kick it over and adjust the spring tension accordingly so that it pushes out sqarely.Does that sound right or am I doing that part wrong?Any tricks of the trade or advice on what I may be doing wrong are appreciated. Thanks for the reply Nigel

I,m not sure if it,s the correct terminology,but the clutch drags on my 199A.When riding the bike and you pull in the clutch it doesn,t fully disangage and the bike tries to keep going with the pressure plate correctly adjusted and slight free play at the lever. Before pulling it apart I did check the pressure plate trueness by pulling the sparkplug,then kicking it over while holding the clutch lever in- it was pretty much spot on.So I pulled it apart and the basket has no wear grooves to speak of.I,ve never seen that before and it doesn,t look like they,ve been filed smooth.Anyway,I don,t think the plates were hanging up on the basket.The hub looks ok with very slight wear marks and a few nicks on the ends that look to be made from a tool in clumsy hands. I have not cleaned and inspected the plates yet,but they are the stock steel ones.I,m just looking for any suggestions on how to cure it and what else to look at or do that I,ve missed.

In the US try Ossa Planet,Ossa World or Speed and Sport Vintage.I get all of my parts from Alex Snoop in NY,but I,m not sure if he ships overseas.He is a great guy to deal with,but does not have a website,just an email asnoop13@optonline.net