coop650

I was thinking about his bike earlier today. I was changing the oil in mine and it made me wonder how his project was coming along.

I tried air but it still was a struggle. Air is my go to grip install technique but it let me down yesterday haha.

That link just takes me to my fb home page. I'll have to try to search for it because I'd like to see them now haha.

Thanks for the tip.

New grips. The throttle side was a TIGHT fit. I've changed 100's of grips over the years and this bike was real wrestling match getting the grip on LOL.

I have the same issue on my 1992. I haven't even looked into yet because of all the snow we have right now. But the first time I clicked it into gear in my garage I almost crashed into my toolbox LOL. Yet again I will recommend videos on youtube haha. There are a couple about our hydraulic clutches. One on the clutch itself and one on proper lever adjustment. If that is not adjusted properly that will prevent the clutch from working. Here is the adjustment video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lh3pm3z7CdY

I am happy you got it running. I told you if you hung in there you would get it .

That could be due to no air filter (unless you put it back in). That oil/coolant issue is more than likely the water pump. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmSkJCII0fY

I suspect your head gasket may be bad from taking it apart. That could cause the need for the hot plug.

And congrats on getting it running!

I'm sorry but I disagree completely with the "no air filter making it run rich" logic. It will certainly run lean. A dirty filter causes a bike to run rich because it can't get the air it needs, no air filter= too much air. Example: If you swap your air filter with something more flowing like a K&N "performance" filter the company even tells you the bike pulls more air and will run lean and needs rejetted. I worked in a shop as a mechanic for several years, I am not a know-it-all but I am not a noob either. That bog you are hearing is a lean bog. Obviously that's just my opinion.

j13me glad to see you didn't give up!

Thanks for that video! Upon further inspection the tank was painted once so that's kind of a bummer. I'll have to strip the paint off first before I could even try that. I have to decide if it bothers me enough to give it a go or not haha. carl bummer. But at least you went in before any major damage was caused (cracked case, gouged cylinder wall, etc)..

Yeah it was $135 with decals or $85 without decals. I opted for the cheaper one since I am sure when the weather breaks it is going to be hitting the ground a lot and scratched to match the rest of the plastic. No sense in ruining an expensive fender AND nice stickers. Might as well just mess up a fender haha. mr neutron the tank is plastic, I might have to look that video up. We still have at least another month of all this snow, that would give me something to do to the bike while I wait out the thaw. The fender will get scratched up quick enough but I didn't like how the Yamaha stuff didn't really fit (you can see how poorly the front one fits), plus the seat pad area was cut off the original fender and was cracked and repaired several times. It really looked like junk. I don't need a beauty queen but I do try to keep my bikes presentable.

Uh oh, what happened? Preventive maintenance or catastrophic failure? I prefer splitting cases for the first reason haha.

I put the new rear fender on my bike today. Not sure how I am attaching yet, quick release style or bolts/nuts. It looks great! It makes the tank look like crud now though haha. And I definitely need a nicer front fender now too. Before: After:

Mail me the airbox lid before you do...

I agree that is too much for the airbox lid, especially considering I got the whole rear fender assembly for $85 (plain with no decals). How can the huge fender/seat be only $25 more than that tiny lid? I am just going to make a lid since the air filter is brand new. Jim Snell talked about cutting the lid out bigger anyway so I don't see why I can't fab one up. On the topic of your bike, if you follow this link, there is a pretty big list of dealers outside the US that may be able to get you price quotes like I got here in the US. http://www.gasgasuk.com/gas-gas-dealers.php Also here is Gas gas UK email: info@gasgasuk.com

On the trialspartsusa site they have a "How to Order" section that mentions dealers. I emailed one and they responded with prices.

Yeah you should keep going with it. I have faith you will get it if you hang in there. Even mine, the guy was riding it regularly but the clutch drags a lot; like you had better be pointing in a safe direction when you click it into gear LOL. And the airbox cover is missing, it had to be running lean. Plus he rigged Yamaha plastic on it. That little plastic airbox cover is $60 US! I haven't decided if I am buying it or fabbing something. But I just want to point out all used bikes usually need some work. Yours just more so than others .

My wife has the camera with her but I have this one online already. Hope it helps: Edit: There is also this picture from the parts manual available on the trialspartsusa.com site.

If you weld the kicker on I will almost guarantee the seal behind it will leak due to the heat of welding. Been there in my younger days. You definitely want the pipe on. You could run a wire coat hanger through the pipe and silencer while it's off to be sure it's clear. Mice like to make nests in exhausts on bikes that sit. I would really expect a lean condition with the air box off completely so I'm not really sure what is causing all the extra fuel unless the choke is stuck. If you are using the choke be sure to not use the throttle when trying to kick start. That is a sure fire way to flood the engine.

I don't remember you ever saying, what does the air filter look like? Also you said there is no t-stat. So two things come to mind. 1) What is in the head filling the hole the stat threads into? 2) Without a stat (or the rest of the electronics wired in) it is probably un-wise to ride it.

You really need the proper tool unfortunately. They are cheap and often work on other bikes. Trying to force it off with the improper tools is just asking for trouble. I have removed them in the past using steering wheel pullers but something almost always gets buggered up in the process. Did you call the local motorcycle shops and ask what they would charge to remove the flywheel? I bet it's more than you could buy the tool for and then you would have it for future projects. Really for a bike that has been sitting for 7 years I am surprised it kicked over at all and wasn't seized from sitting (that's really common). Challenges and problems are part of the game when working on old non-running bikes. Also trying to work without the proper tools really does make things much harder than they need to be. One downfall of working on bikes is you often need a specialized tool set just for your motorcycles. I wish you were in the US I would gladly help. I think a couple hours with proper tools and someone with some bike mechanics knowledge helping, you would at least know what is wrong for certain and could plan on how to fix it. My suggestion is buy the puller when you can afford it and don't even touch the bike until you get it. That will give you time to calm down and relax. Stepping back and taking time away from a frustrating project helps me a lot of the times. Plus you approach it with fresh resolve, not worn down frustration .

Yeah that's bad. I'm surprised this bike ever ran. Make sure you don't buy any more bikes off of whoever you bought this one from originally haha