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I have always have used this http://www.splatshop.co.uk/Parts-Finder/Sherco/2009/290 to buy parts for my bike.
Splatshop stock mostly everything for a 2009 Sherco, they post items fast and without fail arrived within two-three days (in my case).
Rear Fender link :http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-08-trials-rear-mudguard-white.html
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Try balancing with the bike off as you don't have the centrifugal force from the engine aiding you.
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http://www.splatshop.co.uk/putoline-light-gear-oil-1ltr.html
I have tried ATF Dextron III and 10w40 but i find the above to be the best of both worlds.
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I done a quick search on Google and can't find any info ?
Where did you get this picture?
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If it is in good condition £2000 is the right price i would say...
Also its the best looking Sherco, in my opinion
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The front does look a little fast and like its riding low if you know what i mean.
Check that the front and rear go up and down the same amount when pushing the middle of the bike.
You can adjust the forks dampening and rebound using the screw adjusters on top.
Stock Settings
Right leg: "Recommended: unscrew entirely and screw two clicks"
Left leg: "Recommended: red cap flush."
Change the fork oil that will improve the feel.
Great riding btw
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Bleed the clutch, could be air in the system?
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Loads of info here:
http://trialstrainingcenter.com/how-to-ride-motorcycle-trials/introduction-to-tutorials/
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Splatshop's clutch tool was listed 2001 - 2005
I got a bit worried so email them and they confirmed that it would in fact fit 1999 - 2014.
So yeh, i would go ahead with the £18 one.
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There is no huge difference in motors from 1999 - 2010, only minor tweaks. At the end of the day all the tool has to do is slot into the clutch basket and the center hub which are definitely the same.
Have a look at these links, look at the range of years these parts fit.
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-basket.html
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-hub.html
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-friction-plate.html
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-metal-clutch-disc.html
And to answer your question about if there could be damage done. If the spring has snapped make sure to find the broken parts and check that the teeth on all the gears are OK.
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This is the cheapest clutch holding tool for a sherco i can find, no need to pay £70!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111137408196?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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Sounds like the kickstart return spring is broken :
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-kick-starting-spring.html
Here's a guide on how to change the spring.
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/kickstart-return-spring-fitting-guide.html
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You really aren't going to feel the difference between 50:1 to 80:1.
There is no universal ratio for every bike, it depends on how you ride.
Are you mostly just putting about? 70:1 / 80:1 will be fine.
Riding fast in high gears a lot? The factory recommended 50:1 will give you peace of mind.
Anywhere from 50:1 to 80:1 will do for any circumstance though. Just pick what you think is most suited.
Here's a link that goes into detail.
http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/48320-oil-mixture/
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"it goes on and on" .....................................
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http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/sherc_11-21-09/sherco_setup_and_lubrication_guide.pdf
Clean carb, airfilter and maybe airbox. Its best to make sure all three of these things are dirt free with the airfilter oiled correctly.
Are the fork seals leaking?
Do the stem bearings feel smooth?
WD40 all moving parts regularly (kickstart, gear lever, pegs, chain etc)
Any major play in the rear suspension linkage? A strip, clean and grease can help.
Clean and lightly oil the throttle, make sure the throttle pings back when released.
Do the brake lock up easily?
Everything tight?
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The hair (no homo)
Make sure the bore is clean and smooth. Might seem pointless but try remove that brown/orange stuff from the rim of the bore and under the circlip, you dont want dirt messing with the oring.
Looking at the pictures above there looks to be alot of gunk!
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9niggas? The guy from youtube?
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Plunger o-rings are most likely worn. The boot is only there to stop dirt for getting to the plunger not seal oil in...
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I suppose over time the seals simply wear and become more brittle, allowing dirt passed the dust seals which will then mess up the actual oil seal below. Even if its a tiny drip it still means the oil seals are failing, it will only get worse.
If you do change the seals and put fresh fork oil in remember to be careful when washing the bike, as pointing a hose or ESPECIALLY a pressure washer right on the seals will force dirt down and you'll soon be back to where you started.
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Yes and yes, the dust seal and the oil seal that's below both need replacing.
You will need something like this :
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/skf-fork-oil-dust-seal-kit-paioli-38mm-forks.html
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A picture of the "hole" would help, not sure what your talking about
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/Parts-Finder/Sherco/2009/290/Carburetor/
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/dellorto-phbl-a-b-gasket-set.html
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Today i didn't do anything to my GasGas because i have Sherco.
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http://www.splatshop...ug-bpr5eix.html
Yes its fine to use the iridium plug in your sherco. As is the regular the NGK BP5ES and the Denso's. The iridium tip one just helps a little with anti fouling.
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The frame number can tell you the year and cc
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