j13me

We are already claiming gift aid through the charity Please donate here.. http://www.justgiving.com/JQRacing

I have a PayPal account yes Euro_polo@live.co.uk If you could PM me with personal details so I can put on sponsorship form. Thanks

Come on guys, 75 views.. If you all gave just £1 that would be a big chunk of our target.. You wouldn't even notice £1 gone? Remember, it's for a cause that may effect you..

No problem Nelly. Thanks anyway I have messaged all of the big BTCC drivers I have contact with trying to see if they will help too. Fingers crossed. Will update thread with pics when the car is in the 2013 race livery. Big changes

Morning ladies and gents.. Thought I would post on here and serif you kind people would want to help me out Outside of my trials hobby I run a small race team (cars) this year I am doing alot of work with charity and my chosen charity is East Anglian Air Ambulance. I am doing a go carting event on the 6th of April with my team and collecting sponsorship funds for the charity. Me and our 2 other drivers are giving

Cheers! I didn't realise it had to be aligned! I just put it back in! Will strip it all out again tomorrow hopefully Will keep you updated, cheers!

Well, I tried what a few people recommended (start the bike, kick it into 2nd and work the clutch) Lets just say this didn't end well! Uncontrollable drifting through the garden, no back brake and kill switch had dropped off the bar and couldn't get enough weight over back wheel to kill it! Haha Gave up with that suicide mission! Stipped the clutch pack, all were free until I got to the very last one! They were stuck so prized the, apart, cleaned and rebuilt.. Cutch lever feels totally different now (wont pull all the way in so think it needs adjusting) And I can put it in any gear and bike rolls freely! Like the clutch Is permanently pulled in now! Opposite to before! I'm hoping this is just master cylinder, I'm going to release pressure from bleed nipple so the master cylinder is not connected to the clutch and try put the bike in gear and go from there.. Before looking pretty grimey!

They seem pretty much similar?

Is there anyway I can see if it is up to the job without just buying a new one?

Do you think it is that then? Rather than the master cylinder from a rear brake on the 100cc scooter? The shop said it will do but I'm having doubts!

Yes that's exactly what happens, if I put it in gear when the bike is running I would end up going through the fence! Haha. The clutch is bled fine, I have used the back bleeding method, used about quarter of a litre and there is no air what so ever. I did notice, when I closed the nipple, with the cap of a tried it to get a feel for the clutch and fluid squirted out the reservoir from the whole in there the fluid goes through? With the cap on it feels ok to pull, like it should work. And you can hear it doing something in the gearbox as it clicks when you pull it. Problem I have is I don't have a garden big enough to ride it in and do t have a back brake yet either so can't risk riding it trying to stop it on front brake only. How easy are the packs to get to?

Modified the lever to fit the master cylinder, bled the clutch (took 30 seconds with a syringe so old one must have been blocked!) Felt it, all feels lovely. Nice feeling lever.. I can hear a click from the engine like the clutches are engaging.. But nothing.. With the bike in gear and clutch pulled the rear wheel is solid. No difference between lever pulled or not! Is this likely to be an internal clutch problem? Ie seized after 8 years? Or is the Moped brake master cylinder not manly enough?

Will check that out! Today's mission is clutch though.. I have a Peugeot Speedfight 100 rear brake master cylinder, Aprilia SR50 clutch lever and lots of patients. Lets hope I can have it riding in. Few hours!

Forgot too add, with the fuel screw 4 turns out she revs perfect! No bogging at all! Its just the idle I'm struggling with, when I rev it a bit the engine takes a while to drop back down too. I'm thinking maybe a small air leak but visably all seems ok

Can I check this simply? Just pop it off or is it more in depth? Cheers

Update, with the fuel screw 4 turns out it starts 2 or 3rd kick idle is high and very hard to adjust with screw, either raises or cuts out! I do have a gasket gone I think, frothy coolant in tank, grey colour gearbox oil?

Cheers for all the input as always guys! Massively appreciate it! The spec sheet says 4 turns out on fuel? That seems a MASSIVE amount? I suppose I could try it, hopefully finishing work early today so will have a play later! Any ideas why it only starts with a hot plug? (Hot not warm, I can barely touch it when it goes in) warm wont start

Cheers guys, just need a clutch master cylinder, bleed rear break and fit gear lever and its ready to ride!! Ned to look at front brake too, its not spongy or anything but doesn't fully lock on front wheel.. Kind of squeeks and try's to hold it!

This video shows the bogging.. You can hear it, it sounds like a deep throaty roar.. You can hear at the end, it will rev after alot of throttle!!

Will try that tommorow if I get back on shore early enough. Could that cause the bogging down?

What a lovely sound.. The sound of relief!

What a lovely sound.. The sound of relief!

After a quick google search, black plugs etc is too rich, so will try turning the screw in a turn (I thought 3.5 turns out was a bit excessive) must be bad if I'm running no air filter and its still rich!

SHE RUNS!!! Few questions though.. 1 - she will only start if I heat the plug, will start first or second kick then when a handful of throttle.. 2 - the nice clean shiney piston and spark plug are black with carbon after 2-3 minutes of running? 3 - idle is all over the place, idle screw clockwise raises revs but other way won't lower it! Just stops at at a certain point but still to high, I don't have an air filter in at minute as its dark and can't find it but hope that will settle it down! 4 - when I rev it bogs down, quick 1-2 seconds blips on throttle won't raise revs at all, it just bogs down and would cut out if I keep it on.. I'm guessing this is carb settings? The fuel screw is set at 3.5 turns out from fully in as the Gas Gas video suggested is standard?

Today.. I GOT THE BIKE RUNNING few problems still, will update my project thread with a few questions I'm hoping you can answer (should be simple I think?)