johnwayne22

Thanks guys, have ordered a 110 link, and i have standard sprockets so i'll shorten it to suit.

Hi all, I need to buy a new chain for my cota 200 , but i don't have the original to check the size. , Could somebody tell me the number of link chain i will be needing. Thanks, John.

I've managed to find a new casing, yeeha. Big thanks to steven bell. I,ll have it all back together again soon with the RETURN SPRING IN! Lesson learned.

Hi and welcome, bombardier. If your 247 front wheel is the same as the 200 cota, i have the exact measurements here for you. Could you post a picture of your wheel & hub. I've recently relaced my wheels and can recomend a good supplier who makes them to order. John

Thanks for the opinion guys, but i think i'm gonna hold out for a replacement. I've spent a lot of time and money on it to start compromising now.

Hi all, Well the photo says it all really! A quick word to the wise 'don't fire your bike up without the kickstart return spring in' Hindsight is a wonderful thing.... Heres the story, I'd just finished rebuilding my cota 200's engine after a top end rebuild and rebore & couldn't wait to fire it up. I knew the kickstart return spring wasn't fitted but thought what harm can it do? I've had plenty of bikes in the past that i had to return manually. So i was well pleased with myself when it fired up second kick, sounded spot on, even idled straight off the bat without any carb fettling, happy days. So i shut her off and proceeded to polish everything up. About an hour later the missus sticks her head round the garage door and asks if i want a brew, i says to her check this out! bike fires first kick and I'm grinning like an idiot, then bang! the missus points to the floor and says like women do ' is it supposed to do that?" hardly daring to look down i say a quiet no and watch what was until 5 secounds ago my gearbox oil making a break for it. I now know that the return spring also holds the assembly in place so it can't interfere with the other cogs in there! That was a month ago & I've been looking all over the net since, i just can't find a cota 200 or mh 200 clutch casing anywhere, seems they're rarer than rocking horse sh*t! Luckily non of the engine internals were damaged and my engine casings sound. So suitably embarrassed and humbled i'm looking for a clutch casing if anyone out there can help, please get in touch. Heres hoping, John.

This one might be a bit easier to understand. From left to right; the black pentagon is a wire connected to the points, if you follow the dotted black line its then soldered to the black wire (other black pentagon) which exits the back of the stator plate then goes on to your coil.the first green circle is from points to condensor. The pink circle is the pink wire which again goes out the back of the stator. the next green circle goes out the back of the stator with the others. Sorry about the bleedin massive photos.

These photos may help you out mark. the green wire(which is closest to the centre of the stator) goes from the points to the condensor. the pink wire should be black I think as its soldered to the black one that goes to the ht coil

Its your bike, do whatever you want to it. If you get a buzz from moding it then all the better. Everyone likes to tinker with their machines, I can understand others concerns if your'e gonna put it in with the other twinshocks, but you didn't say you was going to did you.

sorry about my photos being enormous, i don't know how to change them.

No worries. Will have a sit down tomorow and mail you exactly how i did mine. As for the tank rubber, here's a couple of pics of mine.Its a bit hard to tell from the photos, but its around 10mm thick, you may have to experiment on your thickness slightly. The basic premise is, it has to be thick enough to trap the tank onto the frame cross member after firmly pressing it down. It should not move at all even if the bike was inverted. The other , equally important aspect, is for it not to push your tank shelter so high that it see-saws on the tank. It needs to be able to rest on the frame at the rear & be bolted on at the front without any undue stress,s from the tank underneath. Phew, that was a bit of a waffle.

ahh, that explains it, thought i was losing the plot for a while. Definatly makes sense to have one.reckon i'll fit one there too, will be much more effective. cheers for that.

Hi Gaz, Unless you are fabricating a full tank shroud, there is no need to get into fibre-glass lay up techniques. (however being a grp boat restorer its no big deal!) I've seen the tank shelter you have bought and it will be very easy to deal with. All you need is 120, 220 & 400 grit wet and dry, some flexable sanding blocks, a half decent orbital sander. (NOT grinder) some fibre glass filler and a little common sense. You can get it all from wilkinsons for less than a tenner! (apart from the sander) Have a look at my tank before and after, it was broken off in about 4 places so was my rear mudguard, it had a big hole drilled right through the 'm' logo! Will PM you how i did mine, as i don't want to give all my secrets away Ha Ha. J

Nope not got one, and there isn't one in my cota 200 parts book either! But i have done a lot of looking on the net and your 'e right , they're tucked away out of sight under the left hand casing arn,t they.. I've looked through the cota manual about 300 times and unless i'm going senile there is'nt one. Anybody else have an early 200 mines number 18 off the production line.

just emailed you mark

once you have a good ground, if you still don't have a spark, Check your points gap. Should be set between 0.30mm-0.40mm at its widest opening.

this needs to be down to bare metal

hi again, You need to grind down to bare metal the mounting point for the coil. Also at least one of your engine mounting points. If your coil is not earthed properly you won't get a spark! Bet thats your problem.