bultobill

Stay with standard stuff. Just because it sparks doesnt mean its going to spark at the right time through the entire rev range especially if its not off a trials engine. Getting it to run is one thing getting it to run well is something else. That said does the electronic system actually advance the ignition as the revs rise? Maybe someone on here knows? Is getting the original unit(s) repaired not an option?

Looks very original even got the toolbox! Kickstart mechanism was a little fragile if I remember corretly so just check it works as it should.

Not sure from your post are you opening the throttle or not when trying to start from cold with choke on? Seem to remember delorto choke isnt effective if the throttle is open at all. Lift choke and kick it with throttle fully closed till it fires should only take one or two kicks.Never had a sherco but had other bikes with delortos on.

I assume we have a brand new plug in it at this point?

Ok Ben looks good. Would like to point out politely that practicing without boots and helmet is considered "bad form" especially if your photographer is around!

I understand your concerns but I believe them to be a true replica of the bike Doug rode at the time down to the last detail. If this is in fact true you may need to loose a bit of horsepower!

Well said ChrisCH

What jonboy is saying I agree with and that is what happens in reality..... Light mods = good to go. A lot depends on if it was manufactured and sold with an approval cert originally or home built if you want to get really fussy about it. Ever heard of anyone getting pulled on this one? No me neither. Read small trailers section in link for cert requirements and how its meant to work. https://www.nidirect.gov.uk/articles/trailers

Not sure but here is a start for you doesnt look to expensive even if it does need IVA https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-light-trailers-help-to-get-a-pass/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-light-trailers-help-to-get-a-pass

Honest answer is no experience of spun crankshaft, or 250 A, just changed a few crankpin/conrods and thats how I do it as thats how I was shown how to do it. I do know the production racing guys used to weld crank pins as it was a common problem to them but never had to do it myself on a trials bike. Happy to go with Feetupfuns comment an experienced guy would be able to tell if it was still tight enough from experience. A point to note here and I stand to be corrected but the DTI / clock shouldnt go on the weight it should be placed on the bearing journal as that is the bit that needs to be true and by putting it on the weight you are relying on the journal and weight diameters being concentric to each other (which in theory they should be but...) Just another point in passing ,this is why when stripping or rebuilding engines of this design its bad practice to tighten the flywheels by putting a spanner on the nut at the other end of the crank to hold it. Good luck.

Not difficult to do just hold it in the palm of your hand by the weights and hit the appropriate weight with a copper hammer of a normal size. You dont have to hit them that hard to move them. Occasinally they become "stretched" and need springing a little in a vise or similar at the opposite side to the crank pin to get the last little bit in that plane. A little patience goes a long way.

The Jets I cant help with but the little mesh (gauze) thing I can. Its role in life is to hold a little bead of fuel under the hole in the main jet in negative gravity situations with large throttle openings (like jumps etc ) when the fuel in the float bowl moves to the top of the float chamber. Without it on a momentary loss of power can take place as the jet will draw air up instead of fuel, similar role to the large brass washer with the 4 holes in you see on Mikuni,and similar, main jets. I know it sounds a bit made up but its true.

I seem to remember the second "bung" was actually the tap and regulated the flow onto the chain?

So to put a different perspective on it. If you guys had ridden in Scotland you would have to change wheel bearings during the week? Wouldn't expect to (and generally didn't ) fit new bearings in a new bike for at least 12 months if it was ridden every week. Never owned a Honda but was always lead to believe reliability was their thing.

What happens if you try and compress it without the top cap on at all?