stump magnet

the smaller main jet would make it worse,it sounds like its running lean. if it ran fine before then it could be fuel starvation, this could be caused by the follwing, blocked fuel tap or filter, sticking float or float needle, tank not venting or carb vent tubes blocked. check these first then try raising the needle to middle clip to run a little richer, (you can also give it a little choke once warmed up as this will enrichen the mixture a little to see what difference it makes) if its better then the jettings needs richening if worse then the oposite

i think you will find that a lot of people on here have had there stators rewound succesfully i do hope so as i have to send off my dads tomorow and its

not my site just knew they had one left as i bought one last year not many people try david silvers for tlr bits its supprising what they have and how cheap some of it is

here, http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/by-part-number/partnumber_19049/ quick only one left get it before someone buys it and puts it on ebay for

had exactly the same problem with my brother in laws b25 turned out the liner was moving up and down with the piston when the engine was warmed up as the fit was not too good so i machined the head a fraction so it held the liner down and still sealed the head gasket, the comp ratio was probably raised a tad but it was on a pre 65 metise scramble bike and it went like hell for a 250 after that with no probs just an idea if you cant find anything else wrong.

trial tomorow at the british mx circuit at lyng in norfolk with norwich vikings not sure if sidecar route is there though check out eastern centre acu site for details

a large circlip actualy holds the sprocket to the hub the bushes are a sort of cush drive and are knackered by the sounds of it, remove the clip and pull the sprocket off the hub with the bushes attached then hold bushes in a vice and undue the nuts or cut em off to release the sprocket, try david silver spares for new cush drive bushes and nuts hope this helps

borrow a cement mixer, add to tank some sharp pea shingle or old nuts and bolts and wrap the tank in a duvet/bubble wrap and duct tape put it in the mixer start up and go for a cupa or two should take about an hour or so to completely clean the inside

drain your fuel immediately!! i had two tlr hondas with fibreglass seat tank units and i currently race a 1964 twinport cz with a fibreglass tank and the same thing has happened on all three. the high ethanol content of modern fuel eats the resin in fibreglass tanks and dissolves it into the petrol which then stays behind in the carb when the fuel evaporates, i have tried to seal a tlr tank with one of the so called fuel resistant sealers on the market and it didnt work. did the same with the cz tank over christmass using a different product called "flowliner" which i was assured would not be affected by modern fuels but after leaving it to cure for 4 weeks i added a gallon of fuel then within 4 days some of the coating was floating on the surface so i scratched and pulled it all out, the sealers are crap so completly drain the fuel after each meeting and leave the cap off so any left can evaporate its the only safe way ive found.

suffolk stove enamellers near woodbridge are top as chris ginn who runs it is best mates with dave bickers and takes extra care of bike bits , hes done some cz and tlr frames for me plus other bits and the finish is superb for example if its metalic then it gets a clear top coat as well to give a super deep shine, got to ring him tomorow to do some cz hubs. google suffolk stove enamellers for his number, hope this helps

get some 2 pack paint hardener lightly sand the shoes paint on the hardener leave to dry for a couple of days then lightly sand and replace somehow makes the brakes better

my mate andy just had his 05 beta rev 3 and honda tlr200 stolen from his shed in the early hours of this morning from felixstowe in suffolk. hes more gutted about the tlr as hes just started to sort it. if anyone is offered either in the local eastern centre area or further afield please pm me and i can pass on the info. the honda is standard apart from betor rear shocks. the beta has new grey mudguards and sxs graphics and is mint. hope they turn up, thanks all.

cable didnt make any diference but the trick with 2k hardener did! can pull stoppies now! + have dremmeled in a couplr of water grooves into the stock shoes and these seem to work well

many thanks will look for one of those

cheers guys the reflex brake is the same diameter and uses the same shoes as the 250 where on earth can i get a new honda cable? david silver spares says there discontinued! who has em?

come on someone must have an opinion! will try the 2k hardener trick on the honda shoes (how does it work)

ok have tried new original shoes and ebc shoes and brakes are still crap on my 200 are newfren grooved shoes any good? has the "I" cams everything else is as it should the back brake is pretty good to be honest as i have fitted a longer arm on the cam. the front is the larger reflex type which uses the larger 110mm brake. to have the shoes re=lined larger and machined back is over

ok have stripped top end, piston and bore are good as is the rings with no blow by marks valve stem seals very hard compared to new ones so have replaced them the valve seats appear to be fine also so putting it down to over fueling and valve stem seals the plug is very sooty and the head/piston and valves were also carboned up so gona clean up and rebuild as is and see how it goes but will check ring gaps before reassembly any thoughts on 24mm carb is it worth trying?

if the float height is totaly wrong on the standard carb to the point that it pours from the overflow whilst running would this cause excesive smoking on start up and very slight smoke when running, the float is twisted all over the place and needs straightening, im hoping that its not rings although ive pulled the engine from the frame to check the valves stem seals and replace a ratley cam chain it has good compresion though and pulls fine im just having trouble sorting the float height. on a seperate note i have been given a 24mm more modern mikuni carb from a xr/xl185/200 which fits straight on is there any performance advantage using this bigger carb or will it lose bottom end.

wot should the tappet clearence be please, plus my needle in the carb has only one groove and seems to be adjusted by washers under the circlip! is this right?

just sold my sherco and bought a tlr what oil do you recomend for the engine + quantities, filter change frequency etc + where can i get air and oil filters from have only found tlr250 ones listed any other servicing advice would be appreciated and has anyone got a spare rear brake lever or know where to get one

i never said it was him, probably just somebody using his name to add some credibility to his high prices

anyone else noticed the extortionate prices of sherco bits on ebay just lately!

just like to say bloody well done to jack, with a full page spread in todays tmx finaly giving him the regognition he deserves (and stating he's from ipswich finaly rather than norwich) you wont meet a nicer lad or more talented and dedicated one than jack, (how many other youth brit champs had a section to observe at the scott this year!) so well done again mate and good luck in the "A"s next year from all in the eastern centre.

sorry to take so long cope but the rear pedal bush is a success! rode (though didnt finish) the scott with it and a couple of other trials works superbly