totalshell

have the best of both worlds a classic ie twin shock and a pre 65 so buy the p65 and ride in both. as your such a lieghtweight you could be competative on a villers 8e or 32a powered bike give Dave a call at http://www.dcclassicmotorcycles.co.uk/4sal...alelist_all.asp the stuff he sells is usually first class ready to ride which is unusual in p65 circles.

certainly yorks classic took the plunge and specifically allowed 4 spd bantams 3 or 4 years ago. Whilst most of the bantams seem withinthe spirit there are bantams out there with modern plastics and stickered up to look like modern bikes.. probably not what was in mind when the catagory was created although in fairness YCMCC have started 'enforcing' the rules and more bikes are been asked to be entered in the 'specials' class although all are welcomed to ride

i had ocasion to observe a couple of modern trials this year the alan jefferies for one, and took time to read the rules and check the detail for each one. this way i did my honest best, i try to mark each rider to the same std. so if i allowed riders to slide an inch or two if climbing a slab etc they were all judged to the same std. one instance sprang to mind on a stop allowed trial of a rider hung up half way up a 6 foot water fall and with footdown this rider lifetd and replaced the foot half a dozen times whilst the bike stood virtually still as balance and position were sought before aiming for the ends. eventually they got there for a 3 which i believe reflected the skill and effort taken to get through a section that had very few scores of 3 or less

the trials reference is interesting as i tried to enter an actc event this year on one and the entry was refused as they felt it would not meet the technical regs.

i'd look at the nametab ignition rather than the greeves and it should be $$ cheaper

'a group of mates' blimey there were hundreds of you going up glencoe i had to slow down.. and it was raining i think ( it rained every other day!)

never mind the bikes ridden chack out the trails themselves. I rode in two SM rounds this year , in the lakedistrcit and in yorkshire. i chose to ride my gas gas trail bike. i rode the clubman route. in the lake district i was the only trail bike and there were no sidecars.. it became immediately obvious why! what a difference a couple of hundred miles made riding in yorkshire IDMC far from being a reguler organiser of trials yet alone p65 or twinshock laid on a trail that had 10 or so trail bikes and probably 8 sidecars. nice natural sections limited need to use the clutch a delight to ride. i wont go to one next year but will do the other..

i have a nice clean std carb straight off a 240 if you mail me at totalshell@aol.com i mail you a picture etc.

ndoubtedly the Fantic is a great bike however for a new rider i would rccomend something readily available, cheap parts galore and a bike that everyone has ridden. a ty250 ticks all the boxes not a winner out of the box but a sensible easy to ride and maintain bike.

Sounds like a no then .. however these guys are up and running all the stuff loks to be top notch and decent riders are using it http://www.upbuk.co.uk/pre65.html

as na plumber and having a fixed bulkhead i can 'just' get a 3m length of copper tube in the back if its run diagonally from above the drivers seat to the nearside door post. if i lay the tube down about 18'' sticks out the door ish.. not accurate but ish ish.. a bit like a plumbers quote..

i have an 04 trafic now with 51k on it i've had it 4 years, i've had no probs with the gearbox but rear discs watch as they include the wheel bearings and are expensive to replace the only faults mine has are the air monitor takes 30 seconds each cold morning before it will let the thing rev and the bely driven fuel pump just stopped one night (850 to repair) i have a Oe cab payload solid divider and have it fully racked out inside down one side . i can still get two bikes and all the stuff in it . fuel is over 600 miles out of a full tank which at the mo is about 78 quid. all radio controls on steering column. its a decent van. i'm thinking of putting in a row of seats in the back (less than 250 all in belts etc. ) and side windows (280 a side)

with the sophistication been employed now in p65 its clear thaht from a cost perspective Ts has a lot to commend it air colled mono shocks even more so as they have no market whatsoever and yet garages are full of the things, i think grafting an air cooled motor into a twinshock is a decent proposal reliable and rideable fantics however it is up to the law makers ( we cannot and never have made and stuck to our own rules) to provide clear rules

it would be worth considerably more in spain where all things twin shock are coverted. I watch some of the twinshock Spanish trials on Youtube and the bikes of all makes are works of art and ridden very very well. PS our spanish friends do like to travel and or buy unseen so a punt on spanish internet sites might be rewarding.

firstly this excercise will cost a few quid no way around that. what you'll need are a set of yokes, fork legs and a set of sliders. start with the legs , any 35mm legs ( mazzochi if new around 200 quid a pair) ( or a pair of late twin shocks) the length isnt critical but others maight have the detail. for the sliders the norton are the preffered choice but your going to have a long and eventually expensive search per haps cub/ bantam heavy duty might be more readily available? as for the yokes either a set of twinshock bored for the new legs or a set newly made again another couple of hundred quid lots of choices but all that will raise even more questions ie what hubs etc etc

as the other guys have said . you've won nothing .. you've BOUGHT a bike, expect as a minimum to buy, wheel bearing,s fork seals, brake pads, fork oil, head bearings, bar grips, new throttle, fuel filter, air filter, plastics tyres, suspension linkage front and rear sprokets, chain, exhaust stuffing.. not cheap... better in my experince to pay more up front for a viewed bike than have a bill for almost the same again in consumables

i suspect that some may be tempted to stamp the original frame no on the new frame. a new framed bike registered on the new frame may be a nightmare to register and may need type approval etc not a road i would willingly follow

or the I might stand for 'in your dreams..'

with my 20 20 hindsight goggles on and having viewed the video on youtube a mass start in those weather conditions was not a sound option

you've a big fat spark at the right time so the issue is fuel related whip the air filter off spray easy start in the thing and kick.. it should start on the easy start alone then get it running on the carb. worn pistons /rings will not stop it starting. my fantic when it first came had a lump missing from the rings and the barrell was so badly scored i could cut my nails on it.. and it ran .. and started easy

there is a set of acu regs describing a trials bike i suspect that the enduro bike would fail them however entry would be at organisers discretion i would be surprised if enduro tyres would make the club happy and on trials tyres the advantage may be largely lost as for the sections forget it for an avergae to good clubman the bike would be a considerable handicap in sections. i've seen taddy on youtube doing indoor trails sections on a ktm but not everyone is taddy

This lad has the stuff.. http://www.upbuk.co.uk/pre65.html

quite right number plates have very strict rules regarding size colour position and size and colour of lettering/numerals. each infraction carries fixed penalties (3 points 75 quid fine_) a typicla trials number plate probably breaks enough laws to get you banned if the copper has had a bad day

if they are standard i'll eat my hat! Andy Hesketh is a well respected engineer and has a number of well developed bikes, he makes forks, yokes, brake arms etc etc. his business phone number is on the sticker on the fork leg..

the most likely reason your using a lot of fule compared to your mate is that the things leaking fuel from the carb, there are posts at some length on here on how to rectify to be honest as long as the filter is clean the oil isnt a great issue ( its there to trap the finest muck) to clean the exhaust whip off the end of the exhaust can and pull the stuffing out wack some more in job done ( you can get a bag of the stuff or a ready to go cartridge from lampkins)