totalshell

araldite the selant of choice...

i've recently seen the manx programme on ebay ( last few months at least) not seen many if any others. I collect Scott programmes and have all the 50's and 60's ( and most of the reports post event via the press of the time). the earliest scott programme i have is 1937! best of luck in the search.

not a bike but get this for expensive. mate has just rebuilt his cosworth engined mk11 escort rally cars gearbox. fits said gearbox in drive invites all and sundry round for starting up party... revs car ala dave the chav until... the flywheel shears.. cuts through the bell housing at a zillion revs, straight through the inner wing neatly out of the outer wing, hits the drive bounces still spinning at a zillion revs, flys off through next doors open kitchen door and embeds itself neatly in the fridge.. he never drove the car again,,,,,dont know about the fridge..

the most important bit though is the exhaust has to go on straight after the barral otherwise it wont go, to get the head on i left the pipe in place at an angle through the frame so it would all squeeze in. the wes box was stripped and apico 'wool' stuffed in place but not too tight. i was reccomended to make the box more staright through whilst it was off but shall keep this for the future as for 15 quid you get enough wool for about a dozen exhausts.. the things all back together and waiting only for juice. i'll let you know when she fires up. scheduled to ride her sat with a view to a local twinshock trial on sunday..

the piston has no name but is an italian gol i believe. i've also bought a new kicker rather than repair the original forward kicker. the new is made from stainless and needed assembling ( tricky). it fitted a treat and doesnt touch the engine case at all, i;ve being able to ditch the strap that held the old sloppy kicker in as well. barral went on a treat, i reccommend putting the carb up near the airbox though as it wont go in after the barral is on and i'd suggest bolting the manifold on before putting the barral on the engine. the whole job is significantly easier if the tank is off the bike through out.

my suspcion would be a crank seal however.. start with the cheap and easy stuff. it sounds like the problem only happens when the bike is 'hot' suggesting that something is expanding and 'opening'. get the bike running and have to hand a small bowl of engine /gearbox oil. when the bike starts to run away with itself 'paint' the oil on the manifold joints/ rubbers any cracks will be temporary blocked and the bike will stop revving and you will know where your problem is and how to cure it. if it carries on runnning away whip the covers off and check the seals , one may have just been squezed out and a bit of a push may get it back in ( twas the case with my greeves which used to scare the be-jesus out of me all for a crank seal that was not in properly and only req. a bit of pressure from a screw driver to sort out...).

back to the original question.. i very stongly believe that i 'saw' a ghostly apparition in my bedroom as a child. i woke in the night and saw an elderly woman stood at the foot of my bed. I believe i really saw her. years later i told my mother and she said that the previuos owner , an elderly lady had died in what was then my bed room.. i dont know .. but i saw something that i thought was a ghost that night..

just got the barrell back with its shiny new chrome (nickasil really but hey..) new gasket set and piston. anything i should know before bolting them all up again.. couple of things on the same subject. bike has a WES exhaust i've stripped out the silencer wool how much and how tightly do i push the new in ( are they all the same, the 'wools' that is..) and the pipe i've soaked and cleaned with petrol should i use caustic soda as well.. thanks boys first trial with the thing 30 nov.

now i would not want to endorse this method but all you need is a letter from a person of ' authority' ( read knowledge) on the make and bobs your uncle so get mr x whose an 'authority' to write a letter saying this very nice bike frame and engine no XYZ is a xxx made in i9whatever. personally i rang up that roy bacon who writes the clollectors books ( no in the phgone book, he's in the isle of wight) and he wrote striaght back ( next day!!) with a certificate dating the bike top chap..

i dont think i've ever seen him compete, but i did watch him practicing years ago at the Flappit with his dad, he was simply awsome. he used to deliver papers on a c90 i think from his das shop, i think i saw his dad on a ty once doing the same. for me his record is astonishing and as long as he wants and somebody wants to pay him for doing it he should ride. is suspect like many of us he thinks he's still the best in the land . so carry on lad enjoy it. you know best what suits you. so not to be called out ..thinking about it i did see him at the Scott a couple of years ago he even asked my advice on which way in the section (i was the only person there other than the observer.. he wont remeber it but it made my day..)

woa thirty quid to join a club.. never paid more than a fiver.. watch a few trials learn the ropes understand what level you'd feel comfortable riding, which clubs offer that level and are they local.. observe a few trials you'll see evrey rider taht way and learn that not everery body is good not everey body is bad but they all enjoy it ( you might even earn a few quid as well while observing,, no qualifications required just turn up on the day and commit to stay on the section all the trial) buy a mass produced bike that parts are easily available for and reasonably cheap.. you want to ride trials not spend time in the garage and down the parts shop age of the bike is never the issue condition is every thing...

so the two guys in fluro jackets who stepped out of a white volvo with blue and yello squares on the side and a blue llight on top weren't traffic cops then.. who should i call.. seriously i've done about a dozen classic cars and bikes in the last 10 years and every time you go the process changes a little the cops came only once about 4 years ago ( from leeds dvla) leeds always insist on making an appointment at your home which must be in thier 'area' ie not close to another dvla centre.. where as manchester look at you as if you are mental when you telll them leeds want to do this... the guys at manchester have always been spot on helpful and quick i've had to wait sure for up to 4 hours but job done every time no probs..

dvla cant insist on anything.. all they have the requirement to do is establish that the vehicle exists as per the application.. ie make . model. age. frame and engine no.s. this can either be done on a home visit or they take the word of your MOT inspector. if a police officer attends with the dvla they would be able to tell you that a speedo would be a legal requirement if/ when the vehicle was used on the road. dont be put off it really is the simplest thing to do. get the bike mot'd when you can, once you have that certificate i've done everything else in the same day no problems.. ( the VMCC club told me that same morning that it was impossible to do in less than a couple of weeks.. i sent him a photo later that day of the bike taxed and ready to go..)

probably the best guide to green laning on a rev3 are JL thoughts on bike prep for the scottish.. gear up a bit to preserve the engine.. clearly the things not designed to run all day flat out so not too much road work but with apporpriate use of the throttle ( not rolling it off as you coast down long hills or keeping it pinned as you try and catch a cbr 600) should see it okay.. do you ride with a petrol station every 20 miles or does the LR kit include some way of incresing the fuel capacity..

dont need a speedo to get an mot or register the bike either.. rding on the road without one though would technically be an offence. the real issues today would be getting an insurance co. to insure the thing on a frame no. only and most dvla centers now insist on visiting to see the bike even though this is not an acctual requirement more nice but not necessary.. Manchester old trafford are cool on this leeds insist on seeing the bike at your house and even bring acopper with them...

is 1500 - 1600 now the benchmark for a trial ready 240? the last two 'sold' on ebay have both bid to that price. makes the spares prices seem almost acceptable.. gulp..

twinshocks certainly the way to go get on ebay look at a few bikes spend 400 - 1000 on something ridable for parts availability and value probably a ty250 for just dirt cheap a 70's montesa ( i know of a rideable/ competative, as is 348 locally for circa 550) if you want to spend a bit a bultaco or if your after the best twin shock a fantic ( spend a lot) i wouldnt choose a p65 as they are specialised , gone are the days of turning up on an old thumper with trials tyres.. so for value and smiles a twinshock. if your in the north west red rose classic are happy to have twinshocks ( about 18 in most of thier trials they have dual routes on every section at every trial, trials are a tenner or altenatively they pay a tenner to observers..

full marks for having ago, although i cant think of a club that would be 'happy' with a bantam with discs and upside down forks (?) personaly i believe the bantam to be an excellent choice for modern p65 trials a quick glance at the latest result from yorkshire clssic has about 8 being ridden competatively. the juice is in the engine with oddles of potential the d14 is rated as best at the moment ( fashions change) with an excellent engine being available for sale on the yorks website. ( this bike has been ridden in the scottish and is a reguler top 3 finisher in the two stroke class despite.. being a rigid.) it or a replica engine would surely clean up in a twinshock.. good luck.. now must get back to organising that loan with northern rock for all the fantic bits i need...

Hillarys final line is the most apt. avoid the worst lines take a little time in the section and as was pointed out earlier unless your a leading light surval has to be the aim so as we all know its much harder physically to foot out of a slippy section than it is to ride out. so for me nice thick tubes, a pound or so more than normal and ride to finish the course. lots of dry clothing gloves etc at fuel stops and take time to get a proper drink when you can the 15 seconds it take will be repaid when you dont make a mistake through dehydration..

dont take / no need to take the bike. go in the car and be sensible. dont aim to see as many sections as possible see at least 75 - 100 through at about 3 spots all day. get to the start field early, get a programme check out the route. get off to your first spot early (literally as the first riders leave the field) take your time drive and park sensibly take a brolly something to sit on and have a nice day ( impossible to have a better day...)

thanks for the speedy replies the front exgaust has had a hard life couple of good dings on the elbows.. i can see two different types ?shapes which is the preffered shape the long cone or the 'square' ' box' can i get an oem back box or do i stick with the wes and repack it ( if so how and with what) so much to do in the fortnight while the cylinders away...

well following the positive comment in this forum i've splashed the cash on a 240 Pro. with the barrall winging its way 'darn south' for a re chrome and a new piston i'm twiddling my thumbs when i want to be in the garage. the cluthch arm has the extra 20mm but still slips a little .. suggest a cure anyone? reading through the forum i've seen use the 200 yokes what do they look like as i'm told the ones on the bike may be 200's. what other things can i do to make it more rideable../ reliable... it will be used competatively twice a month and will definately not be a show bike.

you want to stay in kinlochleven itself if you can ( but most will be prebooked already..) if not then glencoe village or ballachulish are your best bets.. for the 6 days jump the extra dozen miles into fort william.. best of luck.. accomadation may be as hard to get as an entry.. although an address in foreign climes and a foreign passport might help. to seal the deal if you could be riding a 500cc rigid twin and your daughter or wife can ride then you might stand a better chance..

hack saw time... get the whelbase and head angle of choice by 'cutting the top tube and 'gently' applying pressure on the front wheel to the right figures are achieved. and for those on a budget i'm told that the engine can be mounted higher and the lowere rail/s raised by removing down tube

i'll have one at those prices woody.. if it it were so cheap i doubt you can buy a competative ready to trial all new engine and box from a specialist off the shelf for less than 1500, forks ready to fit will be a grand, figure for the frame 1500 your grand for hubs etc might only buy half of whats on the list and 200 for a tank even sammy's mass produced tanks are 250 so a one off might be 350. i suspect that from nowt a truely competative bike can be bought for 6 - 7 k. look at dave varleys excellent triumph twins which he 'knocks out' at 7k.....