totalshell

if your garage has a side door as well as the up and over only use the side door and bolt the up and over closed by putting padlocks through the runners above the door this will stop it opening short of taking the damn thing off always chain the bike to something even if its just the patio furniture 9how easy to wheel your bike away whilst chained to a table and four chairs..

http://yorksclassictrials.co.uk/images/Rog...ubSection6..JPG http://yorksclassictrials.co.uk/images/Caw...ubSection2..JPG feel pretty sure that this would be the bike Tony was riding, he has ridden it for a couple of years at least. I think though that the bike 'lives' in the lake district with the bike that Carlas Casa's rides? http://yorksclassictrials.co.uk/images/Lad...amSection5..JPG http://yorksclassictrials.co.uk/images/Caw...amSection4..JPG on a similar vein this is the bike Jill Driifield rode to a first class award and The Joan Westbrook Trophy on 32 I should credit Barry Pickard with the photos.

how long until the next BSA victory? (Although Jill Driffield did win the ladies award on a bantam this year in the P65 and a first class award)

keep your cash in your wallet, why do you think trials are so popular in Yorkshire? for any trial that is entirely off road all you need is the bike; no tax, insurance registration number or MOT required if your trials bike is registered ( you have a V5 or the new V5C registration document) and your only goimg to use it off road then you need to declare it SORN with the DVLA (form at the Post office) even thats FREE! any trial that will use the public road will say so in the reg's/ entry form and for that the bike will need a registration number tax MOT and insurance. For the MOT the bike will need a horn ( electric single tone) a registration number and thats it. if it has lights they must work (headlight, rear light and brake light) so if it has lights get em off.. you only need a speedo when you ride on the road ironicallly you dont need one for the MOT test.

JARVIS

''World of huge compensation claims'' how many compensation claims have been made this month against trials officials, clubs, riders, how many in the last year, last 5 years? i bet i could count them on one finger.. that dont mean it wont ever happen but that the risks of financial claims been made sucessfully must be very small . surely more important than getting people to fill out forms would be to ensure that all trials are laid out by a competant person who the ACU/ AMCA has validated in that role. ( dont look for holes in the dyke, train / regulate the builders properly)

certainly not unusual to see one or two likely lads out 'rambling' in the week before the scott, i'm told that you can just stumble across sections as you admire the views, in which case it would'nt seem right not to walk them..

the answer to thats got to come from either of the Lampkins, Mart lives less than a mile away as the crow flies..

i looked at this long and hard Lampkins had details about how to mount a tube via an empty tyre valve. At the end of the day if you get enough water in there the bikes going to be coughing and spluttering any way as the filter will be like a bath sponge, undoubtably the drain would help if the air box is full of water but by then so would the carb be. so as the filter is only held in with two screws i carry some kitchen towel so that should the thing get water in i whip the filter out and squeeze it dry which you would have to do anyway and get the towel screwed up and down into that airbox to get not only the water out but all the silt which really F's your carb up...

go to the betauk website for pictures of each year so you can work out which yours is (if you have the frame or engine number they have charts on there as well to work out exactly which year it is) as for the condition how good is each year question faults to look for etc have a look at the whole of the bike is it clean with no obvious damage (damage that would affect its use,) make a note of all the stuuf that is wrong as you go along so you have some idea of repairs at the end wheels are they bent, broken spokes, bearings ok, tyres ok engine, has it any leaks, water/oil, is the engine physically damaged (craked casings etc) does the oil look nice and clean in the crankcase take the water pump cover off (2 jubilee clips and couple of allen bolts) inside it should be nice and clean with NO signs of rust, the first signs would be round the very edges where the metal is thinnest. take the air filter cover off, (one screw) is the filter in one piece is it nice and clean, take the filter out (one screw) is the airbox nice and clean inside get your finger or a screwdriver and put it right to the bottom of the airbox below where the air goes in the carb there should be NO mud dust silt water down there grab hold of the rear wheel and give it a good old yank to see if thier is movement in the swing arm check the reaer shock is not leaking check the chain how much have the chain adjusters been turned round can you pull the chain away from the rear of the rear sproket, what do the teeth look like on the rear sproket they should be uniform with no chipping or uneven wear check the front forks do they go up and down smoothly are the chrome bits nice and smooth with no scrathes or rust are they leaking chek the head bearings by putting front brake on and trying to rock the bike back and forwards thier should be no movemnet at the steering head cheack the front brake pads thier should be 2 mm at least on each pad and the disc needs to be smooth and straight does it work the front wheel should lock up, exactly the same for the rear start the bike up (by now it will be nice and cold incase the seller had warmed it up before you got there!) it should tick over once warm with the choke off let it warm up out of gear rev it and roll it off you should hear no knocking like somebody hitting it with a hammer especially as it nears idle ride the thing up and down (no need for wheelies) just to make sure it goes up and down all the gears and that the clutch works ok stand back and let it tick over until the fan comes on look at the list youve made and then ask the seller how much he wants for it remember with a trials bike your buying on condition not on age much better an A1 1995 than a 2005 thats never had an oil change and has failed all the above betas are simple and reliable , Stators fail on 03 bikes water pumps can corrode the carbs can play up (leak) but the best news is lampkins deliver next day( although in the couple of years i've had mine I've never had to call them.. most important bit ''you want how much for it???'' a nice clean 2001 bike requiring a couple of hundred spending on it (bear in mind that new tryes will set you back two thirds of that pads 15 quid a wheel bearings the same, new plastics and decals would take all the 200) would be worth 800/850 max any more work and the bike would soon be down to 650/750 if you pay any less than 650 you either get a bargain or a wrong un ( your more likely to get the latter)

dont know of a replacement but why not spend the extra day stoppping the leak, a, make sure needle valve is clean and seating cleanly, lap it on like a valve to be 100% b, set the tab so the needle only has to move 1/16 (its either open or closed and doesnt need to be wide open) c, set the float/s so your 100% that they close the valve ( are the float/s punctured?) d, get the joining surfaces of the bowl and carb body so they are square and clean use something like ink to ensure that the surfaces are true e, use new gasket and put some sealent (very lightly) on both surfaces to iron out any imperfections all the above can add up to leaky carby, and they will be cheaper than a new one

Neil on wheels I thought i was the only person who'd remember JMB, Sx superstar. I tripped over him totally by accident in his familys motorcycle shop in Provance where my bike was having a new chain and sprokets fitted, loads of photos of him in the shop didnt see any trials stuff though. talked for half the morning about Sx on eurosport. best paper boy i ever had, doug lampkin (although his dad delivered them occasionally as well)

ebay, about the least frequent of the 'square' parts to turn up but they do every couple of months if your in a hurry with a pocket full of cash Greystones Tiger Cubs Warehouse are worth a telephone call, although they have a small ebay shop they have a warehouse full of stuff that they post out fairly quickly or ask around at your local p65 club you'll be surprised how many there are under benches collecting dust

1 find your passport 2 get an mot for the bike (can be done on the frame no.) 3 get a dating certificate from somebody like roy bacon to confirm its age 4 get a cover note on the frame number (most insurance co.s wont like doing this so a specialist classic insurer will be best, thogh at best you'll only be able to get one for 28 days so dont buy the insurance until the day befor eyou nip down to the local licensing office) 5 go to your local DVLA office equipped with all the above and the application form thats on the dvla website ( dont go on a monday dont go near the start or end of the month dont go anywhere near a new registration letter/number day) be prepared to spend up to 4 hours in the place 6 take the cash for first registration 7 be prepared for them to say we wont to come and have a look at it and they will make an appintment with you to view the bike ( this is not strictly part of the process in certain centres they will insist on seeing the bike (leeds) at others (manchester) I've never been asked and they look at you like an alien if you mention it. Either way all that happens is a bloke/ lady/copper comes and says lets have a look at this frame no. wheres the engine no. then thier on thier way and you get the reg no. and tax disc back in the post. i have done all the above in one day (last may) I have also had it take up to a month all in.. good luck.

Ulfs only been out twice in the 5 years he's been staying with me. Won first time out and second the next, nothing left to prove . no work required , success ..... the enemy of all fiddlers.

as long as the van doesnt have a spare wheel or ladder to get in the way the rack ought to be ok. staying ahead of the law will probably mean a tail board will be needed. it should have a number plate on it and to get that you ll need the vans V5 and your passport ( no one said it would be simple..)

or virtually any twinshock mont for under 600 ( i have an ulf karlson in the garage!)(not for sale) Although having pulled my beta out for its annual ride at the weekend I cant believe I forget what a nice bike it is, and a bargain to buy and maintain when compared to my cub.

craig mawlem is up and running having frames made by mick whitlock from the original shirty designs http://www.yamaha-majesty.com/index.php?cPath=33 bikes are rarely availble even on ebay and something genuine regardless of condition is likely to set you back a grand .I suspect a ready to ride 250 would set you back over 2k building your own 200 majesty from a donor (450) mawlem frame (450) tank (175) 200 kit (300) puts you in the nice competative/ 'restored' bike catagory for less than 2k

the 03 rev 3 certainly 'seem' to have issues with corrosion of the water pump housing and a t least two threads have covered this in the last year. My personal solution was to fill the corroded areas with araldite and only use water without additives. during the following 12 months certainlt the corrosion did not become any worse , although just shy after a year of using the epoxy it started to 'peel' from the surface of the corrosion. I have now used a petrol tank sealent epoxy to try to gain a more permanent solution. Of course the permannet solution would be to spend the 46 quid on a new casing which Im told will not corrode. the following link take you to the last time this was discussed and links in there will take you further http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....p;hl=water+pump

sounds like your moving in the right direction. the point your at now is the most frustrating, so close yet not close enough. keep making small adjustments ( as little as a 16th of a turn of each of the screws, in and out) until you are happy. Only adjust one screw at a time and leave the bike plenty of time to settle (30 secs or so) before making another adjustment. BEFORE YOU START make a clear note of where the screws were before you started so that you can always go back. i had an old Mont that took me a fortnight , playing every day, at this stage to get just right , but when I did the mont won first time out. best wishes and hope the weather in Aus is as beautiful as it is here today on the pennines.

Middleton Moor is a big old place with beamsley beacon in the centre . The trial starts on the Ikley side of the moor and is effectively 3 laps of the moor as fast as you can and for some thats very fast (hare and hounds pace!) to add in to the mix there are about 15 sections per lap normally fairly wide but nothing that would trouble a competant clubman (if you were't riding as fast as you could) and then theres the moors.. most of the moor is sandstone/peat and is actually quite firm , a good part at least a third of each lap is wet and has the potential to become impassable and is criss crossed by gullies streams and hides big rocks. be very prepared to be lifting your bike out of bogs and take a spare can of fuel because you''ll use loads trying to 'burn' a route through to the firm ground your bike will look like its done national service in the somme after just one lap so I hope you've not just fitted new plastics.. beware of the old yorkshire adage''' Keep to the path'' because it aint always true..

fully warm it up by riding it for 5 or 10 minutes then try adjusting the idle, sounds like its just not warm enough and remember a quarter turn on either screw can make a big difference.. if you have a manual use the settings that are reccomended and start from there... if no manual start with the air screw about 1.5 to 2 turns out and the idlescrew or float level screw screwed in so that the bikes idleing fast then screw out the idle screw a quarter a turn at a time till it falters. once your sure of where the screw is too far out screw it in an eighth of a turn from there that ought to get you a bike idleing on the idle screw to get it ecactly right is going to mean adjusting the airscrew in or out by quarter turns until you find the 'sweet spot' you might have to make SMALL adjustments on the idle screw again but at this stage of the process the word is SMALL might take a little time and no small frustration but stick with it. if you absolutely cannot get it right after a day or so strip the thing and check the float height etc

dont forget you dont need a speedo to pass the MOT

in nice condition on eblag you should get from 30 to 75 quid for one

3 joint favs in a five horse race, does that book balance Perce?