totalshell

Having a hip replacement should make you better! the only downside should be post op, observe for six months then ride in the clubmans/ beginners for the rest of the year (ex- wife Orthapedic surgeon) (I had heart replacement surgery six years ago and i ride every weekend now, before the op i was lucky to be able to observe...)

At todays exchange rate thats exactly

they still come up fairly regularly, keep looking

had my trailer in the garage for 5 years, 3 months ago after a trial I tipped it on its side for storage.. why did I not think of that before now only takes up 18'' by 80'' on the garage floor FANTASTIC..

If your forks are halfway original ( on the outside at least) stick wth them heavy weight cub forks are as almost as rare as hens teeth, if the ones on the bike are already 'not of british manufacture' and useless bin them and try the ceranis. difficult to give specific advice without knowing exactly what they are externally and internally the best advice would be to ride them , a fair bit, and decide for your self what more you would want them to do.

no matter how easy it may sound wheel building is something i would always to the experts, putting in the odd broken spoke is okay but anything else leave it alone

if it wasn't too far wrong before you 'adjusted' the carb dont go changing jets yet, play with it some more, pull it apart and put it together again, make small changes one at a time then ride it, get the bike to start dependably first then tackle tickover, then rideing away from tickover your not aiming for perfection at this stage just 'almost there' once your at that stage across all throttle openings the thing then comes together and only minor adjustments should be necessary at specific parts of the ranget a manual or this forum will give you a good starting point but each bike, each fuel, every mixture you make up every filter are all slightly different before you even get to the carb!! although each jet/slide /needle effects differnt parts of the throttle opening their relationship to each other is important to how the bike works as a whole, so the main jet will have some effect on the whole throttle action not just when its wide open

why dont you just observe for the guy in front and hand the board to the guy behind when its your turn to ride... everybody gets to ride everybody gets to observe,,,

If you want fast results is anyone faster then Barry Pickard at Yorkshire Classic, results on website and/ or emailed before 5 pm EVERY week much appreciated!

he's a big lad is Graham and he may well be English but I suspect been from Yorkshire is what makes the difference At Camas na Muic many took fives without attempting the sections many of those who did have a go were stopped by the step halfway up unless you were riding competatively taking the five was probaly the sensible decision in the conditions At Aluminium works probably less than a dozen made the end of the top sub I saw the water level rise and fall during the day by over a foot, for much of the day you could hear the boulders, some the size of your telly, rumbling like thunder down the beck such was the force of the water. probably the whole entry attempted the sections but at its height the section was virtually unrideable most patient was carlos casa who waited 45 minutes for the water level to subside, which it did... credit to anyone who completed the day

on ebay you should get anything between 1150 and 1350 based on what they were going for pre xmas, not much on over the last week so strike while the competition is limited and we've all got xmas money in our pockets use two good clear photos one of each side give a fair description of how tidy it is list all the new (ish ) parts, hilight a few faults and start at 99p with no reserve everything always sells for what it is worth..

technically her majestys customs and excise add the vat at a rate agreed by the treasury with our european comunity partners

Whilst selling a kt250 on ebay recentley I came across this site, got to be one of the best sites dedicated to a single type of bike http://kawasakikt.tripod.com/kt450proto1.JPG

hi there was a thread around a pre 65 bsa where it was agreed that the shocks on Micks james are available from Alan they seem to use two springs piggy back on one another I have a similar arrangement on my cub and they keep my ample bulk suspended better than ever

all you need is spark, fuel, air make sure plug is clean, correct spec and gapped up correctly and sparks ok when kicked over resting on head. make sure petrol is 'fresh' + has right ratio of oil flood the carb, if it has a tickler or a choke lean the bike to one side to flood the float chamber stand bike up right and she should start ok if not and you have never had bike running give it squirt of 'quick start' it should start or at least try to with a spray of that stuff. if it wants to start but wont run on persist. if not get another present..

Roys a nice bloke writes all hose historys of old bike and how to do books, one tip dont call late at night or at the weekend.. like the i.d. tip but have never been asked for it at leeds or manchester offices and not listed as a requirement on dvla website is though necessary for getting the number plate physically made up (with the cub i just asked the wife if it was alright to paint on the mudguards she had paid for, she didn't ask for i.d. )

hi , done this loads of times and its never as complicated as your told it 'might' be A follow the previous post and ask for the logbook from dvla using the frame numbers if it has ever been registered before you should get a v5 in 2/3 weeks B get it mot'd dont wait for the v5 it can be mot'd on the frame and engine number c insure the bike (on the frame number), again dont wait for the v5 ( but do get it mot'd first) e if dvla have no record or wont give you a v5 give roy bacon a call he'll want some money but has a brilliant turnaround , normally certificate with you by return post once he has your frame number and engine number f get down the local dvla office (address on their website) with the form filled in from their website, take a flask, and a paper be prepared to wait 4 or more hours to be seen g hand over the dvla form, cash , mot, roys dating letter, insurance and you should walk away with a v5 within 20 minutes dont take any no's or got to get it inspected rubbish from dvla your registering a commercialy made vehicle whose age has been verified by a dvla authorised source (roy Bacon) and whose condition has been verified by a qualified person acting on behalf of the dvla (mot centre). If refused demand to speak to the peron in charge and get there name. yes dvla can ask to see the vehicle but only if the are 'uncomfortable' with your application and as 2 qualified authorised people have already checked your vehicle thier reason would have to be good, ask what the reason is and ask for the answer in writing the fastest i've done the above in is 72 hours beginning to end. The office at Trafford in Manchester is slow but helpful the office at leeds is faster but unhelpful never ring swansea or a 'local' office either way you end up speaking to the same call centre never the local office and they just read from a script. like trials easy when you know how, just learning how thats the problem

Araldite is always the sticky stuff of choice, heat and oil resitant the best use I ever had for it was sealing a compltely corroded water channel on a vintage car cylinder block, 2 days work layering it up gradually and it never leaked a drop after have I told you how to mix the petrol tank sealant that involves Black treacle and it really works..

GOOD question, i've my hacksaw out waiting for an answer..

For a trials car, we built something similar using marine ply and sealed the edges/corners/seams with fibre glass we used an old caravan chassis as the base though that would be overkill for a bike or two!!

sealing it from the outside is always eventually going to fail, a commercial internal sealer is a certain fix and if you can get the white sealer, sold by the bike shop in leeds whose name I forget you can very clearly see the level of fuel left in tank, and I used a marker pen on mine so that i knew the exact quantity of fuel in the tank, handy for those premixes that are more guesswork than science , its also very easy to see if you have any debris etc in the tank once done.

oops forgot your plug question ... sounds like the thread has gone, whip the head off and have it helicoiled, job done..

PVL ignition is fantastic once fitted properly, starts 1st kick whatever the circumstances, its only vice is the cost and the machining that has to be done to fit it Boyer is cheaper, needs no machining (i Think)and i'm not aware of any failures but i've never ridden a bike with it.

No rocks up here in Yorkshire events, all championship rounds have dual route and the clubmans route has never caused me or my bike any damage. Clubman class winner this year, Norman Pickles on a fairly basic Cub. Normans 80 I believe and most of the rest of the regular riders qualify for a winter fuel allowance. All the championship rounds are at different venues and all are worth a visit especially the 'Captains Trial' nr. Halifax in Sept.