totty79

practice keeping constant throttle while moving your body around, to learn to isolate your throttle position from your body movement, start on the flat. Also try to get used to using the clutch almost as much as the throttle, covering it constantly and using it a lot as a second means of controlling drive.

With the beta oil choice is partly about clutch feel and avoiding clutch drag. I prefer putoline nano trans, motul 300v 5/30 is also really good - I've just done an oil change with this today as I've ran out of n trans. Many prefer ATF but I find the clutch isn't progressive enough with it. I've tried a couple of brands of light gear oil (the usual gearbox oil for 2 strokes) and they caused a little clutch drag.

I doubt there's a standard preload but even if there is you don't want it, you want the right amount of sag.

BOSI do a rear as well, I've used one for years.

For preload lookup how to set sag. For the damping is largely personal preference, and it's hard to suggest a number of clicks as a starting point especially since the forks might not even have the standard grade of oil in them. I'd suggest trying it fully out, fully in, and half way to get a feel for it then adjust from there.

Sounds like you're hanging off the bars, this will be a problem for more than just wheelies. practice keeping a steady throttle while moving your upper body around, on the flat, then uphill and downhill then over really rough ground. Also for a practical/useful front wheel lift try to get a lot of the initial lift from the suspension using as little throttle as possible to catch/assist it, it's useful practice for slippery conditions where there's not enough traction using just the throttle or clutch up technique.

WD40 leaves a residue of light oil (silicone oil maybe?) when the more volatile compounds evaporate off. It's debatable whether it's a good/adequate/suitable lubricant, everything in every oil topic is debatable, but it absolutely does provide some degree of lubrication even though the primary purpose is water dispersal.

I only do your step one "After washing the bike I give the chain a spray of WD40 before putting it away." I tried a couple of different off road chain lubes and they all held dirt making a gooey grinding paste that was hard to clean and chain life was also really poor at just over a year, my current chain that's only had WD40 on it is 4 year old.

Pop into Off Road Moto in Blyth and chat to the staff they'll help you out and will probably let you have a go on a couple of bikes.

I've never owned a Sherco but I've ridden two 300s around that age. Handling was very Gas Gas, felt natural, Beta can turn tighter but tends to push the front and for some riders it can take more getting used to. Engine in between the two a little livelier than a UK Beta but predictable and no where near the instant max torque almost on/off switch feel that a Gas Gas 300 can have, still not ideal for a new starter but things would get out of hand less quickly or less often than they do on a Gas Gas 300. I'm a Beta 250 owner and I'd consider a 300 Sherco in future, or more likely a Scorpa as I prefer the colour scheme.

Might as well try the Shell since you've got it. It's partly a matter of preference with how the clutch feels. If you get to much drag with the Shell then Putoline Nano Trans, Motul 300v and ATF all get recommended, I've tried all three and prefer to use Nano Trans in my 2012 250.

We started at Surrender, got there before the first bikes but it was still crowded and hard to see much. From the hill top past it there was a good view of Roy's Rocks and of the section between the two. Grand Canyon was really good for spectators and so was bridge end although the parking there was a bit crazier.

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated. I think we'll go for a drive today to get our bearings.

Any tips on spectating at the Scott? Were staying in the area for the weekend, we've bought a programme so we have the map for spectator sections, parking instructions etc. I'm mainly interested to know if there are any must see areas, if it's workable to spectate at a section then drive to another or if its only really practical stay put, and also which sections are best avoided by those who aren't very agile on their feet.

The post from intotrials describes the technique really well. I still get caught out and jerk a shoulder or jack knife occasionally especially when fatigued, it sometimes feels safer to brace arms and clatter through.