totty79

Advice conflicts because to be honest it doesn't make a great deal of difference. Some bikes will run away with you a little easier when you're clumsy and that's about it.

I think that style of washer is only fitted on a 300 factory, but you can swap out the two thicker friction plates on all bikes.

UK 250 has a flywheel weight as standard, and there are pros and cons to it, same applies to a slow throttle. Easier to start off with them to keep it tame but you may later want to remove them.

You'd be fine with a 250, a 200 may be better but you can only buy what you can find. I wouldn't rule out a 125 either. I ride a 250 because I couldn't find a 200.

Pretty much any wet clutch suitable engine oil or gearbox oil will work reasonably well, and clutch action is down to rider preference, so you get loads of opinions. My personal preference is motul 300v 5w-30.

You also don't need a number plate, but if one is fitted it must be legit. Horns must be single tone so battery ones are no good. However the most important thing is each tester ignores different bits of the manual, so it's best to give them a call. (My usual bike place insists on a brake light so I take the trials bike elsewhere)

It's always a compromise, never perfect. Changing the oil to ATF is another way to make it more abrupt. Personally I like a smooth clutch not an abrupt one. I swap out the two thicker plates and run motul 300v.

Try this guide http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/STT-2012-3-Evo 300 clutch set up.pdf

It's a good deal if there isn't too much wrong with it. check all wear items, especially bearings and forks where the costs can rack up. Get it running if possible before buying, otherwise you're taking a gamble. Fork springs are known to crack and weren't available a couple of years ago when I had a 99 321. luckily custom made springs aren't too expensive.

Thanks, great description!

Could anyone please confirm the order of the washer and oil seal in the right fork, and which way up the washer goes? The image in the parts manual shows the washer above which is not how mine came apart, however it also it also has the descriptions reversed so they don't match the image so I don't want to rely on it.

Try Macclesfield trials club, it's online and free.

Who's better for publicity is pretty clear cut Google "Ross Noble" and you get 308,000 results with a news article at the top - Comedian Ross Noble to take part in Scottish Six Days Trial Google "James Dabill" and you get 28,200 results with his twitter account at the top.

What bike? Rear suspension linkages and swingarm bearings need to be cleaned and greased as part of routine maintenance, frequency depends on usage, washing and choice of grease. If you pressure wash and ride in water you'll need to do them more frequently than someone that doesn't. Brake noise isn't always a fault/maintenance issue, but I'd check it's all as it should be, pistons not seized, disk not warped etc.

" that specific model can't be registered to be able to ride it on public roads. " Any idea why? I've always used a simple cheap 100ml measuring cylinder for the oil. It may be best to search the forum for boots to see which ones the soles fall off or any other issues, just like bikes everyone has their favorite brand so you'll get 4 or 5 recommendations.

Really hard to advise without seeing and ideally feeling them, if after de-burring a finger nail still snags then they will need filling as well - that's assuming they aren't so bad that they need to be plated and ground. Something soft like nail polish is quick and easy for small scratches. Metal filled epoxy like JB weld is long lasting, but you can do a lot of damage to the surrounding area trying to get it smooth - if you sand too early while it's soft it grains, if you do it fully cured it's really tough.

Beta UK will know how they differ as they'll probably also stock seal kits for both.

Thanks for the info on the 2017. I'll try the galfer pads since I've already got them, if it's still not great I'll fit a 2017 master cylinder. My pedal doesn't hit the frame, and as far as I'm aware there is no fault, all evo rear brakes I've tried have been equally poor. I know the range of travel available is limited as I've checked it when looking for ways to modify it.

Just had a quick search for 2017 master cylinders, couldn't find the bore, still the same make but the outer casting is different. It's still 40mm between hole centers and I haven't seen different brake pedals listed so it should be interchangeable. There isn't much room for brake pedal travel before it hits the frame so I doubt they could reduce the bore by much. If anyone with a 2017 bike could confirm that it makes much difference I might upgrade.

I've ridden 3 evos and all rear brakes were weak. On my 2012 the only thing that makes it work consistently without needing loads of force is managing the temperature, draging it before it's needed to warm it up, but not over doing it and overheating it. That's with a new Inch perfect trials own make disk, s33 pads, new fluid. (Got Galfer pads to try next) The heat and water trick works but only for 30 min for me.

Measure the diameter (I've forgot it) and stick an M in front of it in a search. You'll find them cheaper that way than looking for number plate bolts. E.g. M6 plastic bolts.

Betas whine, try listening to a few videos and see if they sound the same as yours.

The clutch steel plates may have some light corrosion, if that's the cause it'll clear with use.

Plastic bolts are the way to go, a couple of quid for a bag of 50. Best to also trim the bit of the guard that hooks under the frame so it doesn't snap off, you can get away without this bit but it helps keep muck away from the air filter.

What you're describing is very subjective and could just be the flywheel weight (however it would be 100% consistent), or it could be the range of other issues that have been suggested. If it is consistent then I'd try to compare it to another 250 evo before changing anything.