nitjay - hrc

Resurrecting this dead thread as I just faced this exact dilemma and for anyone else who comes across this issue. in 04 there were two part numbers for the o-ring dependent on frame number. I found I was trying to fit the wrong o-ring for my bike number. So if you have 04 bike double check!

Hi, I stripped my bike down to inspect the cylinder, had planned to just do a top end rebuild but the cylinder looks quite damaged on the inlet side. Would you leave it or what are my options? Does it need replating? My nail does catch on the marks. Additionally - the crank has some minor pitting. I’ve not done this before so unsure if it’s anything to be concerned about. A more experienced set of eyes would be appreciated! Cheers!

Thanks all for the input - got a few options to try. Also this is the other rim - I assume it needs new rim tape, I’ve heard they are a pain to get right. You can also see corrosion - If it’s too far gone I could use this as a tubed option?

I just had a thought actually - the tyre has barely been used but it’s been sitting on another rim with no air in it for 15 odd years, the Dunlop was even older. Wondering if actually the tyre is misshapen? The rim looked in good condition. Hoping I can use this tyre as they’ve gone up in price a lot since I last bought one 😂

Hi, My rear tyre leaks air from between the edge of the rim and the tyre itself (not spokes or valve have confirmed in a tub of water). Ive reseated it twice and tried two tyres (very old Dunlop) and an IRC. is there likely an issue with the rim or is there anything else I can try? It gets worse as the pressure goes down I’m this close to going tubed as I’ve got an old rear wheel that does leak through the spokes and this is stopping me riding. New rims are far too expensive vs the value of the bike. cheers

I got the shock out - for future searches, use a flat head screwdriver under the bottom of the shock and pry it upwards. You don’t need to remove the bushes.

Hi, Trying to get my bike trial ready again after a 10 year lay-off. How do you remove the rear shock on an SY250? I'm assuming once the bolt is out, both external spacers need to come out before the internal ones can be knocked out of the swing arm bracket. But could be completely wrong. I've removed the external spacer on one side, but on the other it's completely stuck - not sure what to try aside from WD40, hammer etc Any help would be appreciated. Cheers, NJ

Thanks guys. I'm going to check to see whether it will hold trialing pressure for a day. If not I think I will get the wheel refurbished. Cheers as well for the tip on the clutch, I'll check whether there is some pressure on the slave cylinder - how long would you expect the clutches to last on these bikes with normal trials usage? Thanks again!

Thanks for the replies! Unfortunately it won't last very long before going down. The problem with the rear wheel is that I believe the rear wheel needs replacing as where the rimband fits is slightly coroded in one place and it's causing it not to be snug. (From what I remember) I won't be putting the bike through much strain, just want it to potter about one sunday a month or so on. Replacing the rear wheel is expensive - but do all of the OEM rear wheels have the same dimensions generally? Has anyone used the rimlock method on the rear wheel? Cheers.

Hi all, After over 4 years away from the sport (& this forum!) I'm looking to get my 2004 SY250 back up to speed again. It's been covered up in the garage for the last 4 years and not ridden. Predictably it started second kick and runs fine but there are a couple of niggles I'd like to ask about sorting out. 1: Rear tyre, before I garaged it, I had the rear wheel rim tape replaced as it was leaky. The leak seems to be back so I'm hoping to put an inner tube in. Is it difficult to get the tyre on and off the rim and do I need to do anything odd to use a rear innertube on the bike? 2: Clutch, it's fine but slips a little in 5th/6th if I remember rightly. How hard are they to replace or is it best to leave it to a professional - If so, can any bike garage do it? Or should I find a specialist? Can't wait to get her going again any help on the above really appreciated. Particularly the inner tube as that's stopping me from riding. Thanks, NJ

Cheers for the help guys, when the wheel bearings arive i will give the back wheel a bit of TLC!

Hi, Getting back into trials after 3years of on and off riding. Gave the bike a bit of a service today, but there is one problem iam a little unsure about. Air is leaking from the valve and a couple of spokes (I will try to replace the valve and see if that helps) however some of the rear spokes are really loose. Is it true that you shouldnt 'just' tighten them? If so are there any tips on ensuring the spokes are setup correctly. I could just use slime if I cant fix it this week, but I would rather sort the problem properly if I can. Cheers guys.

Ok a bit of an update.... I tried again at let the bike warm up for A LOT longer and then it worked fine, so Iam thinking it must just be where its been standing, but thanks for the help anyway. I am still interested in finding out things I can do to keep my bike in good condition whilst it is standing. Thanks

Hi guys, I have not posted on here for probably almost a year now, because Iam now at University and as such cannot ride very often at all (maybe three times a year). I have an Sy250 (04) which at first I was going to sell but then changed my mind as its probably not worth that much being quite an old bike now. Anyway I was hoping to compete next weekend and have just gone and done some minor maintenance on it. I then fired it up and found the clutch was working but not enough to hold it still without an aggressive stall. I realise that bikes take time for the clutch to warm up but normally I just leave it to stand for five mins, pump the clutch a few times and off I go. Today I tried doing this three times in a row and it did not get any better. I was wondering if the problem could be that the bike has been standing for probably close on 6months, and what sorts of things I should do when leaving the bike for such a long time. For instance I used to change Gbox oil regularly but due to the length of time in which i have not ridden I cannot remember when it was last changed.... is a Gbox oil change likely to make it better? Could the clutch need bleeding/topping up - if so how do I check that, it has been such a long time now and Iam very disappointed that I may not be able to ride as I cannot afford to change parts etc. Thanks for your help. Dom.

Thanks for the info!

Thanks thats great! I was actually going to email you to say the link was brokern but i thought it must have been my computer. What am i likely to need to fix the exhaust at the front? There is a Yam Motox dealer near me am i likely to be able to get the jet from them, or should i ring birketts? Thanks

Thanks for all your tips! I have just repaired the middle box so that seems ok. How do i advance the ignition timing, is it difficult? I cant get the Hell Team link to work. Basically if you dont mind could i have more detailed information about this. Ive ridden my bike with the airfilter wrong and i really felt that, it seems to breathe ok, so that seems good. I cant remember which main jet iam using, however i believe its the standard one. Thanks lads keep them coming please! Also, after i ride the seal between the cylinder and the exhasut becomes quite gunky - could this cause problems

Hi, i posted something about this on the backend of someone elses post, (sorry for attempted hijack) I left it there for a while but now decided to try and start a new thread. My SY250 is great for (southern) clubtrials, the power delivery is perfect for off camber turns and getting traction. However recently i have been riding a much larger piece of land which contains rocks and giant climbs. However im a bit scared of attempting them on the Scorpa, i know im capable, however im worried i wont get it right as i cant get the bike to rev freely enough for me to gain traction at the bottom and carry me to the top (without a lot of strain anyway!). This means i have to use 4th which gets hairy whent the climbs steepen at the top. As my mate who got it up there said "it just decides it doesnt want you to rev it anymore thankyou" Im not sure if there is something wrong with it, the carb is clean as anything same with the airbox and filter (as always) however if i ride the bike and rev it quite a lot going up a climb or something, about 3/4 of the way up the rev band there is a cracking sound that is coming from right beneath me, it goes away if i let it rev some more. But i just wondered what this could be? I have got a slow throttle on there at the moment so im going to try the fast one to give it a little more snap. Any other ideas? I thought i read something about changing the jets but maybe i imagined that. Thanks

The people i ride with ARE the Wednesday night crew! (i cant go due to work commitments) Yes there is somewhere in Lewes, its great for practicing every aspect of trials I was down there on monday (including rocks.) However there are quite a few MotoX bikes up there and if you get seriously hurt you are in trouble (helicopter) However if you want more details then please PM me. Thanks

I know this is slightly off topic. But i have a UK spec Scorpa and its great in the mud, but now i have started to ride up bigger dryer banks that the Scorpa does not give me confidence to ride, as when you try to open it up it sort of makes a weird crack sound (i dont think its the exhaust.) The Bike seems to rev to a certian point and as a friend of mine commented (after riding his 290 Sherco) seems to go "Thats enough reving for now thankyou." Are there any easy modifications i can do to let the bike rev a little more freely? Thanks guys.

That same Partex direct, had an equally good looking 2003 SY250 a while ago. If i went into the shed and saw my bike looking like that, i would probably partex it as well!

Along with these airfilter cleaning, ive also replaced the mudflap by the mudguard, and sealed it up. I constructed a new one out of an old netball

August 92 was when cats were introduced. My car is early 92, and has no Cat. I have always cleaned my airfilters with petrol, as i did it once with just soapy water, and no matter how thoroughly i did it, it was no where near as clean as with petrol. I think i must be pretty exposed to unleaded fuel, i never realised how bad it was, i knew it was nasty. Where can i get proper air filter cleaner.

I run mine with Oil. and i grease up all around the seals and everything basically! I find if you buy the correct airfilter and fit it PROPERLY it will not matter if you put a little too much oil on it, and it will do fare more good than harm. My airbox is always clean as a whistle and after a few months riding i checked the carb which was similarly spotless.

Can you explain where you get the bigger master cylinder and fitting etc? Is it hard? Thanks