magicmat

id give feetup trials sport a ring or Beta uk bud. Im sure between them they'll be able to sort it, they pop up one ebay used from time to time

Thanks, the big picture with info doesnt list the number of turns, but i found it on that service tab ! I'll give it a try and go from there, thanks

Hi, Im trying to find info on the standard settings for the mixture Screw. Had some problems with the bike starting and running, which turned out to be a dirty carb but now the bike struggles to start from cold, and i think its the mixture screw. Im trying to find how many turns out it should have, but im really struggling to find anything. Does anyone know, or can give me basic advise how to set it up? Thanks

thanks guys, im not going to coat them now, i'll get a close up shot tho

hi guys, Im going up a 315r i think 1998, The yokes/triple clamps appear to have been shot blasted by the previous owner, but having looked at a few on ebay im not sure is this the normal finish for the monts or not?? Can someone help as i'd given them to a friend to powder coat silver because i thought they'd been blasted by previous owner best close up shot i have at the minute is included

thanks for the tips guys but as i said, The problem was still there when there was no: master cylincer therefore no lever ! I will investigate if its a blocked nipple or line, its got to be something simple

For the life of me i cannot bottom up bleed using a syringe, I have tried on the front caliper of the montesa 315 and the clutch slave but am having exactly the same problems on both I shall talk about the slave, because with the front caliper i gave up and used the traditional method which worked. So the Slave. I have a 100mm large medical syring, some good fitting pipe and want to bleed my clutch. The pressure i have to push on the syringe is too much, like the nipple is still closed, so i open the nipple some more and then the fluid just pours out of the threads of the bleed nipple, or the connection on the syringe due to the pressure. I have tried removing the clutch master cylinder, to eliminate that and still the same problem ! I'd think the clutch line is blocked somehow, but i swear this is exactly the same problem as when i bled my mates front brake. Nothing like a bike that wont do as its told to make you feel like an amateur .... I think im going to blow some air down the clutch line, start examining each bit... ITs driving me mad

Thanks guys some good info and tips here Its a 280 that im looking at, I'd prefer a 250, but its a 280 that is availabe, so i may have to consider softening the power is all

a well cared for older bike is better than a thrashed newer one, i 100% agree, I just wanted to see if there was anything out of the ordinary was all

Hi guys, Had a break from trials, then bought a Rev 3 had that for 2 years but never really gel'd with it. Am now looking to buy a 2011 GG Raga. Is there anything in particular to look for? - Im reading about the kick start and idle gears cracking the casings? - The coating on the casings seems to peel on all of them, so guess i cant avoid that. Anything else to watch for? Thanks Matt

I have a Rev3 270 2006 for sale in the forsale section of the website, have a look and see what you think, with the flywheel weight and slow action throttle currently fitted its more than manageable

Its an old bike, and the front pipe has a few dents, dont want to be spending £40+? on chroming it expensive i think, not cheap when looking at race car manifolds, may be more cost effective for a little front pipe mind. Thanks, not sure you can buy molten aluminium in a can though? I may just blast it with a high temp paint, or the suggestions for expoxy etc and baking could be the way forward. However if the wifes oven smells of oil for months after, she will kill me

Hi All, The front pipe on my Montesa 1998 315r, is all rusty. Im wanting to paint it and thought i'd use some stove paint, or Very High temp paint. but wondered about Powder coating, does it work with a front pipe, or does it come straight off? I know most pipes are chromed nowadays, but i dont want to go that far. Thanks Matt

he skips over why its a better design alittle, but dies say, its like a car, and it has a double seal, so is likely to last much longer.

seems its 360cc in each leg and 5W

found it i think ! http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/44955-paioli-fork-oil-levels-mixed-messages/

Hi all, I've tried looking at the online 315 manuals but they all seem to be for the showa forks. can someone tell me the oil weight and levels/heights in the older paolini (not sure thats how its spelt) suspenion? Thanks matt

what jets would be good to use for these carbs?

HI Rich, I think you were at the barnsley trial on sunday? I watched you ride because im restoring a 315 at the minute, you could also import your own OKO carb, by buying it off ebay, 26mm = £59 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OKO-26MM-POWERJET-FLAT-SIDE-CARB-Keihin-PWK-carb-TYPE-/221571348481?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3396ae7801 28mm = £61 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OKO-28mm-RACING-CARB-FLAT-SLIDE-CARBURETTOR-/281461273404?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item418866333c

going to buy myselft a little sonic cleaner from ebay to do exactly this job. borrowed one to do the carbs on my road bike. Handy bit of kit

when the water pump goes and the side casing allows oil and water to mix, it forms a sort of mayo, which goes around the rest of the engine, this can cause blockages else where and you have to clear it all out. it may have been mayo previously which moved around? glad its sorted though, well done

wonder if you could put a riv nut in. Specialist tool though.

good effort so far ! Love the MS paint skills haha

was that a brand new brembo master or a second hand one?

I'll drop him a message, see if he has any instock