mxoset

A kelly controller will sort this. If take a look at the thread on this there is some guidance on the conversion. If the pictures of the cabling don't freak you out it may be worth a go!

That shouldn't happen on a kelly. you need to set in the kelly the maximum and minimum range the hall throttle will provide. this is 0 & 4v as I remember it for the stock throttle unit. This will mean the controller always uses the full range of the throttle twist. Then you set the max power of the controller, pickup speed etc. changing these should not effect the effective range of the throttle. this is one of the benefits of the kelly over the stock controller as what you are saying is exactly what happened when you turn down the potentiometer screw. I am wondering if the peak power is set wrong? you have to set a % based on the controllers rating so on a 200A controller setting 50% will give 100A max. then when you set the speed % you can set the slider to the rider ability 50,75, 100% etc and know you wont cook your motor, if your peak power is set too low you might be reaching the max power delivery too early? If you need more info let me know. I had a look at your wheel/hub conversion post.. looks fab and definitely something I'd like to look into. Rich Rich

Cheers Guys, It's a gen 2 with two dials and a switch. I will try the balls out test pilot approach. Rich

Eirik, I think the diode between left and right terminals is the wrong way round. This is my fault as the diagram and pictures are the opposite way round. It looks like you plan to use that terminal with your black lead to connect to the Kelly green (4) lead? I called that terminal LEFT on the diagram. If that is the case then the grey cap of the diode needs to be towards the other terminal RIGHT which will go to the red (9) and 5A fused top connection. Rich

Guys, I've had the same issue with my 20 with power cut out.. I'd like to understand more but can't see a direct link to this issue at the moment even though it's exactly the same symptom. Running stock oset 20 with stock sla config.If the bikes been ridden after a while the power can cut suddenly when you have the throttle open. Due to the braking nature of the electric motor in free wheel it nearly sends you over the bars. My daughter first reported it and I dismissed it as a one off or her bad throttle control(my bad). I had it happen to me today and it was unnerving / dangerous. I'm pretty sure the batteries are operating normally. But the stock charger is only getting them up to 13.5v on full charge. They are all reading the same so no obvious duffers and throttle reading medium power lights on low when the cut happens. Why is voltage so low when lead batteries are normally over 14v charged? If this is the result of a current / voltage drop why has this controller got a hard limit where all my old oset bikes have died gracefully when running low on charge. It means I can't use these batteries safely on anything other than the first 30mins of riding. Any thought welcome. Rich

Hi Eirik, I had to think about these bits too.. Good to double check but you are on the right track. First off. Yes the relay top and bottom pins run between the battery +ve and b+ on the controller. The relay will only 'open' this path when the key switch is closed and a current runs across the last and right pins. The current will run through the relay to b+ then back to the battery directly from B- to the negative battery terminal. Last reminder that the top and bottom have to have the resistor (big fat green thing) soldered between them as we'll.. On to your other question. The loop wire needs to come off. The wiring on this bit of the circuit was trickiest to figure out in my head. Here goes the explanation made as best as I can.. The left and right terminals of the relay are the switching circuit for the relay and need to go live when the key switch is on AND we also use this circuit to supply power to the controller to switch it on. Start with easy bit.. Connect one of these relay terminals (RIGHT in diagram) direct to the Green no4 Kelly wire. This doesn't have a fuse. The switch connectors are off the other side terminal and top terminal as you said. To explain more: To get power into the circuit take a new feed off the top relay terminal. There was a little fuse lead I reused from my old loom for this purpose with a 5A fuse to protect the controller. This 'new' lead from the top terminal has one of the switch connectors attached to its end. Now the next connection joins two parts of the circuit together so is a Y connection/join. Use the other key switch connector and fix it so it connects to Kelly loom RED no9 AND has an additional short wire going to the 'other' relay activating terminal, LEFT in the diagram. I've done this the other way in the pictures (Sorry) but the direction you drive the current across the left and right relay terminals is not important. All you need to make sure is the diode you solder between the left and right pins is set so the silver band is nearest to the terminal that links to red no9 lead. What you have just made is a circuit that when the key is switched on feeds power round the controllers red and green leads and the relays left and right terminals, activating the relay and also powering the controller Cheers, Rich

I am hoping this will be obvious to someone but I can't figure what the power dial does? I got the new oset 20 home yesterday first ride and my 9 yo daughters straight away asking for all the dials to be turned up. Now at 100% on speed switch. The lower setting is 75% apparently. The "uptake" dial at half way so the throttles not too snappy (this is great feature) The power dial is a mystery. Same speed and acceleration when twisted low or high? What is it supposed to do? I am worried its broken as the bike is not as crazy a i heard they were. No power wheelies here or scared kid at full throttle. I recon my modded 16 running on 33.6v lipo is as quick. Any pointers how to test if this dial works and if I have a duffer would be very welcome. Just to confirm Batteries are fully charged, three lights on the meter... Cheers, Rich

Also to show the seat modification on the 12.5 oset *** important mod recommended by oset was the bar end caps to protect the throttle unit. ***

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*** updated.. I had the diode upside down. use this version 16/08/13 *** Eirik, here's the wiring diagram. Sorry the Relay part is a bit fussy! if you can save the connectors for the key switch and reuse them on this new loom you are on to a winner. ** I also forgot the stock 45A fuse on the diagram *** It is still there between the +'tive on the battery and the connection into the relay. ** Pics to add tomorrow. Cheers Rich kelly OSET wiring diagram r harris 160813.pdf

Hi Eirik, Looks like you have everything there which is a great start. Those are diodes in the red box. You only need one of these and the big green resistor. They connect across the terminals on the relay. Sit you relay down on the table the same orientation it is on the bike with the fixing hole at the top. The green resistor is soldered across the top terminal and bottom terminal. One of the diodes is soldered between the two middle pins, left and right. I believe the orientation is not important but followed the wiring diagrams I had to the letter and kept the silver cap of the diode to the right terminal. This is best seen on my 6th picture. Careful on the wiring as all this exposed electronic bits could be a shorting risk later on if stuff was to touch it, so I put a bit of tape on the exposed 'legs' of the resistor and once I'd finished all the soldering of all the wires i blasted the whole relay and all the terminals with liquid electrical tape (ebay). I will take some pictures and do a complete wiring layout diagram, will be done on Thursday and uploaded later this week as I have a day off. Take your time on this and you'll do a better job than me easy. I've ended up with far too much wiring all bunched up by the controller. You won't regret the effort. Those batteries will give some serious power mine are 8 cell vs your 10 when wired in series! You'll be able to program pickup, max current and speed on the controller if it's too crazy. Ill be back with the promised pics and diagram ASAP. Cheers Rich Cheers, Rich

Hi Sean, It's not necessary to change the batteries but you will be able to do this without any fuss after installing the Kelly. The 24 and 36v controllers have preset voltage input cut offs and are not programmable. I am thinking of doing the same to my little 12.5 as my boy is battling with the terrible all or nothing power delivery where my new Kelly setup on the 16 is great giving real control at lower throttle positions without limiting top end speed. I don't know if you noticed but turning the potentiometer down basically makes it worse and creates a big dead spot. If you want to do the install make sure you have the resistor and diode that came with the controller. More on wiring in a min.. To program it you need a laptop and the software is available to download for free from the Kelly website. The software is very easy to run and has a series of menus (more later). The controller needs a special dongle that comes with the controller so you connect that to the serial port on the kds36100 then the other end into your PC, using a USB serial converter cable if you don't have a serial port. Most modern pcs don't. If using a converter cable install the driver for this and get it installed before trying to connect to the controller for the first time. You really need to have the controller on the bike and fully wired up to configure it. It is important power does not flap at all while you are programming it, this will screw up the controller completely. Menus: most of the default values are ok. Change the throttle to hall type and set min voltage to 1 and max to 4. If you are using the stock batteries then 100% top speed should be ok to start with without any surprises. The pick up can be altered but all down to how snappy you want it. Mines on 3 at the moment. Max voltage at 60% should be good to start. I'm am not sure if the batteries could deliver more than this any way. This setting is a good way of controlling the torque if you stick bigger batteries in later on. Wiring: pay attention to the resistor and diode wiring on the pictures that show how they are soldered on to the relay. These pictures do not show the controller wiring so I can take pics of these if needed. Ask anything specific if this leave gaps.. Good luck. Rich

I would double check the 16 is working at it's best and current batteries are 100% as I have both 24v models and found the 16 was always faster on like for like batteries. I thought this was due to the bigger wheels? Others may have had different experiences. It did go flat quicker though. to answer the question costs were (you will need to add shipping, this can increase the base costs a lot!): Batteries - US$212 - for 3 x ZIPPY Compact 5800mAh 8S 25C Lipo Pack from hobbyking 8 cell lipo charger ans PSU - US$68 - from hobbyking Controller (KDS36100) US$59 from kelly controllers. Other wire and connectors say US$50 There's work/hassle involved with changing these particular batteries to an 8 cell JST-XH balance connector as each one ships with 2 x 4 cell connectors. I think folks have made cheaper 'OSET' packs by combining smaller voltage packs in series. Rich

Hi, after breaking a couple of controllers in the process I’ve now completed a Kelly Controller installation on an OSET 16.0 24V. The problems I had were down to my wiring connections so hopefully this thread will help anyone considering the mod and avoid them making the same mistakes. I have focused on the wiring here as it’s what caught me out. I’ve not added much info on the controller or batteries so ask me questions if needed or look at the other threads that discuss them. First off, even without my controller breakages factored in it’s a costly mod with the new batteries, charger, controller and wiring so I’m not justifying this on a cost basis and will leave that to you to judge if it’s worth it to you. Benefits: - OSET now can take any lipo battery (within reason!). The 8 cell 33.6V lipo I had would not work with either the 24 or 36V OSET controllers. - I can program speed of pickup and top speed via laptop - Lipo benefits – light battery, lasts ages, quick to charge - My 16.0 24V kicks ass compared to a stock 36V model on sealed lead battery. What I have: - OSET 16.0 24V model - Kelly Controller KDS 48200 (KDS36100 would also work apparently) – bought online from Kelly Controllers website - Heavy gauge RC silicone wiring, shrink wrap and XT60 connectors - 3 x Zippy 8 cell lipos – 5800 mAh x 3 = 17,400 mAh & 33.6V max / 29.6V minimum - OSET 36V relay – bought from oset but pretty sure you can use any relay with the right voltage thresholds. You may even be able to use the 24V one but I have not tested it. - Cheap soldering iron but decent solder (not the free stuff that comes with the iron) Notes on wiring: - Use the resistor and diode that comes with the Kelly Controller. These are soldered to the relay terminals as I’ve tried to show in the pictures. - Use shrink tubing and a heat gun rather than electric tape to produce a better quality result. - New controller is currently fixed in place using zip ties. Not ideal and I will sort this out soon. Take a look at the pics if you are interested. I hope they help someone. Also on the topic of mods: Running 2 x 5000 mAh 6 cell turnigy packs was a great mod I did initially without needing a new controller. This new setup is much faster though and lasts longer. I fitted a Stomp mx seat to my OSET 12.5 model which has been great for my youngest. I see no reason why this wouldn't fit the 16.0 either. Cheers, Rich