lee harris

The section forks can be made to fit but it is quite a bit of work. Machining the brake plate for a bitter axle means it cannot be used with theold smaller axle once your forks are rewoked. PM me with a phone number , i have an idea! lee

The section forks can be made to fit but it is quite a bit of work. Machining the brake plate for a bigger axle means it cannot be used with the old smaller axle once your forks are rewoked. PM me , i have an idea! lee

That will be hard to find, hens teeth etc. i moved to the later motors because of this inherent fault

1000cc is correct, there is a screw on clutch cover. 1 liter will be just below. more will run out. i use atf

this happened lots to 200 fantics. i rode one for 2 hours trying to free them and it didnt.when I stripped the sidecover, the steel plates and ferodo were coroded together. I put a screwdriver between each one and put it together...no change. I had to take out and emry paper each steel plate and reassemble. then it worked. Try above methods first. Top gear, clutch pulled in and very strong sharp pull backwards.

The clutch runs on two needle roller i thinks. easy to take off and look.

didnt know were to put this. hope this is ok?? http://vimeo.com/2642287

shame to get it muddy

April fool or what? cant be serious. if they are they should shoot the grphics designer - Pink??? urgh! i think some one is taking the wee wee

as long as i have a hole in bottom......or money, then yes i will call, tomorrow nite????

my ty has 4 as do most of the riders here also. No problems, no drag, no slip

I know that one...24000 in trial and 7 day version...Agrati said so anyways... L

They are probably Betor which were fitted std to the 50s and 80s Trial version. Start at 170ml, 10ml if you are light enough.

hi fastandyc, nice sumpguard..... tell me, have you ever landed on a rock without a helmet??? I have with one and it hurts even WITH a bone dome You ve only got one nut, you might wanna look after it???????????????

Ian???? Steve???? Bilco???? Whatever....dont ever lend him a 340......... see in exmoor mates, double or nowt on the 500?

To clutch or not to clutch...that is the question. i did one of micks training weekends and he gets you to ride with the left hand behind your back! I know the problem with modern sections...thats why I sold my gasser7beta. it is difficult, for me at least to mix both style. On the other hand, mick did touch the clutch going round the right han tree on section3 and on many occasions he hast THE FINGER covering it. Even on good twin shock trials like the exmoor, i still grab loads of clutch and the fanny just invites you to do so...(even built a 340 with section cases so its hydraulic.... anyway, not talking about the spirit, learning to ride without the clutch is probably best, see niel gaunt, but if you are crap like me, 4 springs has no negative effect what so ever. The clutch is a little lighter L

Running with four is ok, no slipping. Three i have not tried. This means that everybody out there with agood ty250 can butcher the clutch hub buy using a tyre lever or srewdriver to hold it and it will still work. I have 3 ty clutch hubs that people have mooded this way ;-(

pity they ve gone belly up.....

they are the same as a 300 fantic crank if you ditch the old split type. i can get them here at about 35 euros each. Auch! PM me if help is needed lee

good idea to get a better picture of the brake to see if it is the one needed lso the forks. The rear wheel will also fit a fanny

I saw the front brake plate, just the plate, go for 140 quid on ebay recently. And the front wheel fetched 80 odd! The forks appear to be not so good so they are not going very high at the moment. If anybody NEEDS that brake, and wheel, and many many people bid silly money. Look here. Pretty sure its the same. I have bought exactly the same as this in italy but not picked it up yet. lee http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BETA-TR32-TRIALS-SPA...A1%7C240%3A1318 here is mine

someone like steve goode will sort you out with a new tap. Hold th,oulded in nut on the tank before turning the tank tap nut. It has a left hand thread

Yep!

the 200 crank seals can be replaced with the engine in place. get two spokes and grind the head, not the threaded end to make hooks. Push them in and pull the seals out. For the cost of the seals and the time, well worth it on an old bike. The 200s cant be rebored. the clinder is plated. try the carby firts, then the seals and see how it runs

first place to start is the carby. if the bike has been laid up for yonks, the timing wont change. The carby wiull degrade. First bet from me (5 quid) is that the o-ring on the choke jet is awol. Take of the carb, take off the float chamber. The longest jet, under the choke lever, has an o-ring on it. It will probably be butchered. That will need replacing. The other jets will need cleaning as will the setting screws and their o-rings. Dont loose the washers between the screw springs and o-rings. Check the o-ring at the top of the slide 8cover) I had a bike where that was missing. Check and removed any gunge, this will occurr when the fuel in the bowl is left standing and evaporates. The oil will remain and go hard. Check also the slide for wear. If so think about a new one but remember that the slide bore will also be worn. typical sign of this is that the bike will take a long time to return to idle when warm after reving it. jets should be 92 main, 42 pilot. A carby overhaul will still leave you a worn slide bore so think about an oko. I would buy a kit and not try to jet one myself. try Chris at Classictrialuk for a bolt on replacement. If it has been standing for a long time, I would have taken the head off and checked the mains etc before statring. i was given a 300 engine and told it was ready to go. Taking the head and barrel off showed it was half full with a water/oil mix. I stripped that engine and crank and it was ok. if I had started it I think it would have gone belly up. Check the silencer as it will be full of ****. If it is heavy then that is all old oil. Cut clean repack and reweld or go for a WES. Some hate them I love em. Loogk good, light, repackable. Definitly better than an old stuffed up stndard silencer. The exhaust will need cleaning sometime. Check on here for caustic soda solutions. I assume airfilkter is new and lightly oiled, carb and filter rubbers are good and not perished and that the plug is new. If all that fails then have a look at the timing but I think it will just be there. Not out, not damaged. If it stops when hot, the coil may be breaking down but check all above first. Final have a good look for cracks on the frame. These bikes were well built and handled lots, but some of mine show cracking on the footrest and head gusste webbing. If so reweld or think about moving down and back.