lee harris

http://www.myvideo.de/watch/4971435

Hi Scrumpy, you beat me to it. It wer reet grand. Lots of fun, loads of mud, I dont even think I was last! I

I think done to death is the right phrase here........ As said a million times before, change a mono frame to a twin shock;its still not a twin shock. Get a new majesty framekit from Mick the man for many thousands of pounds; it has new geometry, lightweight tubing etc etc. is it a twionshock, well yes cos it wasnt a mono BUT Its not in the spirit of things........or should be go the pre 65 route and say thats ok??? I think we should do this one every 6 months on here just to fill some webspace. Is the Section hydraulic clutch and front disc on one of my 340s in the spirit - NO Is the 303 engine in my 240 frame, YES. its a 300 motor with no reed valve and the 300 was a twin shock. PS, I think rules are needed for the winners to abide by. Me, and maybe he with the TY mono, are out to have some fun and thats it.

Or change the frame to a 240, add a 303 engine and a red tank..... only kidding

Most center boxes are packed with steel wool. This burns very very well so dont try and burn out the middle box cos you will have a loud bike with no power afterwards. I have had reasonable success filling a blocked off pipe with diesel or Gunk/Jizer and leaving it for a week and then using a hot pressure washer to clean it thoroughly, after "drip drying". One very good alternative is to cut the box open, clean wash and scrape it to remove the packing and gunge and the repack and weld it up. Try the degreasing method or diesel method first. HTH Lee

Actually steve ive bought a royal enfield in the uk and want to know if I should plan with 500 quid from our bet or not.....

The forks are standard. IIts the distance between the yokes that makes the travel look short. i needed to raise the top yoke to clear the tank on full lock. I also want to paush the forks through as far as possible to quicken the steering slightly. Classictrial head angle change is out of my budgert for the time being. Having said they the forks dont bottom but dont match the rear falcon which are very soft. Still I have a week to go... steve, did we bet 5, 50 or 500 quid ;-)

Rebulit 303 Motor from Peter Schwarz, 40mm Section Marzocchi Forks, 300 exhaust, modified WES 300 Silencer, 26mm OKO, Classic Trial Tank, Tank graffic from Andy Rothers, swing arm shortened by 10mm, rebuilt rear wheel, wider pegs, Falcons, 300 Front Brake, 300 seat, Fat bars etc etc. Steve, bring the beer money shame my welding is not pretty.... I will try one of Chris

Hi Bas, Merlin21 on the other forum is missing a few sanbdwiches in his picknick basket....I have told him he has lost some parts but he knows better i think....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes...sspagenameZWDVW

Hi Chaps I need some advice for somthing I have not jet done before. I have several fantic hubs where the steel (or iron?) lining is visually worn out. I think the hubs need glass blasting and powder coating also. So heres my question. Who can do the lining and in what order should I do it? Do I do the cosmetics first and then have the hub relined? Should I rebulid the wheel first? Any advice on who can reline and what it may cost Thanks in advance Lee

The metal plates are drilled so that the oil can flow between them quicker...easier clutch lift esp. when cold. The nut is dicicult to overtighten cos it can only be tightened against the engine compression. That way its difficult to Bu(?er when the clutch cover is on.

Cliff, the sun inn trial is in bilsdale yorkshire. It is organised by bill pye who is mr fantic himself. It starts at 15:00 on the 23 aug and also at 11:00 on the 24th and 25th. It is a fun trial...alll one route but still with some sections to sort the men from the boys. david Pye will also ride on a cub I think, he normally rides a 4rt in the northen experts. I will come over with a german buddy , him on a std 300 , me on a 340 hopefully. Also erwin the durchguy on a 240. He could have space in his van if yer was interested in a 3 dayer. Drive up friday evening, stay in a motel in doncaster, the last 80 miles on saturday The motel if 40 for all 3 off us. PM if you want to have a laff, its camping in the pub garden.... lee

Hmmm? The arrow on the cover helps you line it up with where you took it out..... If you managed to screw against the springs then its ok. Put another way, if it was not ok, then the screws would be too short. Open the clutch cover screw (BIG flat headscrewdriver) on the side engine case. There is a flathead adjuster and a locknut, Are these backed out? How many plates did you take out? the same as you put in? Some repair kits came with one plate more to try curing the clutch slip. Your actuation arm is extended and this may aiding your problem. If there are no obvoius clues, lay the bike over, take the clutch out again and measure the thickness of all the paltes comparted to the old. shouldnt be miore than 1mm. If I had a dutch guy driving up the the sunn inn from dover on 22nd august , want to tag along and pay haklves with him on petrol. it would be nice to meet uop Lee

Thanks minislim, i know bill pye and he enthuses as well. we are now three from incontinence, ma the brit, a real german and a dutch guy. see ya there lee

Hallo to all, there is a new guy here in germany on our forum who has bought a 243 in bits. He has got it together and running but thinks he has reassembled the forks incorrectly. Anybody out there got an exploded view of the 35mm marzocchi forks available. I think his 243 is 1987 but the forks were the same on the 1988 I think. Thanks. Lee

Thanks Peter for the Info, am really looking forward to it. @Bilco. Matey boy from devon is not coming but I might still need your offer of taking a fantic back to devon....i could then come over for the dartmoor 2 day and ride it then....I will call. Do you need any cigarettes or tobacco...cheaper over here still? Lee

I wont have a problem cos after gettin used to german beer, the ale will give such a , er, "problem", so I can take a crap standing like peeing, right steve. Not taking owt with me thou! lee

steve can you pm me your phone number? When and how are you going up? Got space in the van to take a bike? Or just back? I need to talk as matey in devon wants to come but has no bike. I could bring a spare but I have an enfield to bring home so my spare would have to go to devon. see ya Lee

So the boat ticket is booked, I know roughly where it is, i know whos running it (Bill Pye) and the 340 fantic should be serviced in time. I know Bilco is going and a few other yorkshire boys too. What else do i need to know? I will be tenting it on site, which I am told is ok. Is it primative or are there any loos? I understand, that the pub sells beer and no food. Good for some but what about eating over 3 days? Any recommendations? Can I use throw away bar-b-q to grill some steaks? If it is wet, am i gonna get stuck on the parking? what about the sections? who has ridden it? hard/easy? I know its all the same route scored over 3 days. any pictures out there? Lee

Jaan, you are trying to achieve the impossible. A MX motor makes most of its power above 6000rpm. A trial motor rarely revs above this. A MX motor has very low torque, a trial bike motor lives on torque. It not just the exhaust port height either. The scavanging ports or transfer ports are far too big on an mx motor. The speed of gas flow at low revs is not enough due to the large area. It will never run. Also inertia. The flywheel on my 249 engine is comparible to a 4 bedroomed house in size. Also the motor internals add to the inertia. A trial motor has weights also on the opposite side of the flywheel. Put it another way, my 125 cabalerro motor has a fly wheel the size of a skateboard wheel. Low weight and small diameter=low inertia. This means revs quickly but stalls quickly. Big flywheel weight and larger daimer means more inertia and more torque. The gear ratios will be all wrong....its is a wast of time and effort and a good mx motor. PM me if you want a tip for a good trial motor supplier lee

why not sell it and buy a used 125 trial motor. Less hassel and better resulkt

clean the carby. The o-ring on the choke jet will be bu/(ered. Change that and start again Lee

Hi Arie, thanks for the PM. I have no more 240 engine parts as I only have the later type motors 241/

hi spud, cant help with the log book bit but you are spot on with the clutch. More on off will come with a shorter lever but it will be much heavier. I reckson so heavy that you will be back to at least 3 fingers. Of course you could try riding it like an 80s bike and leave the clutch alone!!!............................ Thats what i luv on fantics, esp the 240 they have simalar motor characteristics to some modern bikes. The rear drum can be re-line but i have no adresses. I would try new shoes first, cheap and may work better HTH