lee harris

My fork legs are coated black (nitride?) and are pretty scratched. Where can o get them recoated. Cam i chrome them? Thanks lee

My bet is a worn carb (slide) If you close the throttle and the slide is awol, it will pull on by and let it run on as andy describes. Try another carb. Anyone will do I think you have enough.... BR L

Push out from top to bottom. Bearing will stay seated then loosen after stem is pushed about 20 mm through

You got it. Use a press not a hammer. Heat and push out. 303 yokes have 16 mm stem instead of 20mm

so you were in the army then gizza? Hi Rollox, I live near worms...yep really is called that. A guy called martin luther translated the bible there before my time and got lots of hassel. It also has a dom and great weizenbier auf wiedersehen pet

easy answer, no Think of a bread roll thats gone hard abd stale....how do you make it eatable (?) again? It will become soft by soaking in water.....cant eat it though. Plastics are filled with various fillers and chemicals to make them white (or cloured) and soft. The sun, or to be more precise, UV light, leeches these chemicals out. This discolours the plastics and makes em brittle at the same time. It is not Petrol vapour that does this. Leave a red fantic tank in the sun for a sommer and it will go white. This can be removed by dragging a razor blade across the surfaces which scratches off the top 0,2mm of "dried our" plastis. The tank will be red again underneath but will be scratched all over. (Ask a grown up to help you on that) White takes that go yellow have lost their pigment due to the same leeching process and you cant put it back in! Lee

Its been on for 11 trials now. No cracks and no leaks. I have scrapped a few rocks as you do and it shows battle scars as the alu one without cracking. I am chuffed. Pm me fir more info Lee

good on yer...add gloves and boots....pegs can cause nasty bites worse than any internet beast

Hi Grib, I think I can source original parts, but I need more info on "it should work". To get a spark at the correct time, you will need a voltage, an earth, and a timer. Assiming the points do act at the right time, and assuming we take the chassis as earth, where would IVOR fit his one cable... Her has a metal canned Dansi coil, with three connections and also a Ducati with the same. How "should it work". thanky

The thread is std M8 but the bolt head is smaller. Run a tap through the tread to make sure its not binding. I have had this, but mine worked their way off whilst tightening the bolt. Once tightened, the kicker stayed in place. I thing you will find that the KS clamp is bent. If the bolt is screwed oin, the side force on the screw causes it to climb up the groove in the shaft when tightening. Check to see if straight. If the thread is then clean, tighten slowly ewith a small headed bolt and use a rubber hammer to keep in place as the screw is tightened. If this doesnt help, look for a new knuckle on ebay or bob wright or bill pye or wherever. HTH

Here are some piccies which i have uploaded for IVOR. I have never seen this type of conversion before? Anybody else? Apart from the fact that there is no weight of the flywheel, would it or could it work??? Be nice to her, she is like Sophie Loren, really hot in her day. One good reason to finish what you started.

rare in the uk as nobody wanted them. <common in italy. bolt on foot rests are fitted to bottom shock mounts. seven days usually means ridden on the rad. engines in italy usually awol but frmes are unbent. too expensive for a kit me thinks...thats why its not sold 1200 would be a good price for the seller imo

should fit ok...even if 2 inches too long...easy to loose that. Most important thing after connecting...BEFORE kicking, open and close the trottle. it should close on its own and listen for that nice clunk when the slide closes in the carb body. if you dont here it, there is not enough freeplay and the bike will rev its nutts off when it catches.....will give you a heart attack.. Avoid this

I wouldnt use the small end method....take it to a car wheel fitter and use his airgun if you dont have one . Will cost one pound me finks

Yes I saw this on facebook. I have a cabalerro with a 240 motor in it and that was a lot of work. I question the power output with that 200 airfilter though. There must be a lot more to come if this were to be "improved" L

makes a fantic rod kit look cheap...

Correct Seals available from steve goode at a "good" price. use a heater to warm the tops before prying out AND use a rag folded as many times as possible, 4 or 8 times to place under the levr and protect to rim (phnah phnah). I find tyre levers work well. THROW ALL HAMMERS AWAY or pay the price...

Thats it in a nutshell from my point of view. If the turns up your own backside dont get me the rock faces do..... At least on a twinshock I feel challange without riding a wobblers and weavers route

Hi dave, I realy have know idea. The mate concerned rides a pre65 MVAugusta over here and it really is pre 65 if you ignore the mikuni. he knows that I go back and forth and caught me last weekend at a trial. he seams to have enough money and he doesnut want a bantam / villiers or fanny B. Old english iron...but of course in trials trim There was a guy PAULCCM on eveil bay a while bake...I think I may know him....anybody want help me?

i have heard there is a guy in the midlands who builds and prepps them to a high spec. Anybody got any info. As in my wanted add, I have a crazy german who wants to buy a high spec beezer.... if I wanted a fanny , i would ask Bill Pye... Whos the beezer guru in the UK?

I think weve done this to death but here goes... The pre 65 thingy all started when the twin shocks came around. Nobody new what to do with their heaps of old iron. The same is true of twin shockers. Not really competitive against the modern guys (unless you are Ian Baker or dave Pye), the TS classes came along and everybody was happy..... what we are seeing with the price increase is that people no longer WANT to ride modern. All the old farts (me ) dont want to ride up the side of a house dropping the clutch in third gear at full throttle. I love watching it, I repect those who can do it, but its not for me. Some people find that an average modern trial may cost them a brake lever or at worst a rear silencer etc etc falling off those big steps so the twin shock / pre 65 / classic thing is a viable alternative to have fun and still ride in a competition. As far as price paid or price asked is concerned, or "it cost less in 1978" or "they were no good then anyway"...its all relative. To rebuilt a Fantic to as NEW condition, and I mean everything rebuilt, will cost me 4000€ plus. Thats without labour. If I tried to sell it in that condition why shouldnt I ask 6K? Its a NEW bike, just like a sherco or gasser. Doesnt Richard deal sell new Greeves for the same...I am talking about his twin shockers not the mono... Whats its worth? What are they prepared to pay? The ex whatshisface Bultaco didnt reach the reserve at 6K on evilbay so the value to the seller was higher... I personally dont like hondas but I did buy one of them whitlock frames for a mate here and they are wunderful The fact that a bike XYZ was not good in its day is irrellevant. The sections today are EASIER than in 1980 so the bikes are more useable. Am I wrong?

heres a reply from a fantic guru in soton who doesnt post on here Correct offset for a Fantic wheel with Grimeca 125mm is 93mm from brake drum face to rim centre (never use the edge as a datum, as width of rims varies). I will check mein anyways L

only difference is the seat, footrest (brake pedal9 and final drive. The carb has a98 main jet as opposed to the 96 std 240 but I change both to a 95 anyway. Biggest advantage of a seven days, they are mostly not mullered and bent. Quite comman to find in italy HTH

Hi hamish, i will measure mine tonite and pos Lee

Maybe this works.. http://www.br-online.de/bayerisches-fernsehen/sport-in-bayern/motorsport-trial-in-gefrees-video-ID1305546682291.xml