lee harris

No sure which is right or wrong...the 301 / 241 had a flywheel where no rings could be added or taken off. The 305 hat them...two rings. Maybe the 245 had only the one? All are Ducati and interchangable. The rattling is par for the course. Whip the head of and check the bore. If ok and mains and big end also, put a piston in it. It is necessary to ensure the nikosil has not worn thin.(Feelable lip at the top) Then go up a size. If a C is fitted, buy a D. If the nikosil is well worn, you may go up two sizes but be careful as the ring will hit the wear lip and bare alu bores dont slide as well as chrome. It may seize. Even better is to measure your bore and then the piston. Clearance when new was 0,035mm but 0,05mm is also ok. 0,07 will rattle and yours is probably 0,1 or more. If you leave it dont try winning against dougie. If you wanna try that, best replace piston. Bob Wright has cheapish pistons from GUL. If you wanna keep the bike, look for an ASSO or Giordani but these are , whistle through yer teeth, expensive. HTH Lee

The seat frame is from a coach. The bike was the same but heavier than a 305 and had two seats. The swingarm is a 300

The seatframe is from a coach. It was the same but heavier than a 305 and had two seats. The swingarm is a 300

So this is the end colour...thze frame is not stoved for exmoor , but it will stay red. The yokes will be orange also

If you have a metal can dansi coil, this is probably the culprit, not the stator. if the new stlye ducati plastic couil is fitted then look at the stator. Diosconnect all three wires at the coil and get a multi meter. Green to black should be 40-60 ohms. Thats the trigger coil. Red to black is primary coil and it should be 400-600 ohm. Black to ground should be zero resistance. Look at the green wire carefully as the plastic likes to fall off. If the ohm readings are ok, try a new coil first. I can send you one to borrow for the price of the postage . PM me your address. HTH Lee

yep 220cc or go on a diat. I dont have the same value in my handbook. Mine says 220 but I use 200. I also us progressive springs from WES. Available form Steve Goode or BVM in the uk.

this may be it

white or black?

Looks like being a red frame and swingarm, black tanks and side panels and orange yokes. I will post when done

If you ride a crappy as I do, bling will distract the spectator from the poor performance.... silver and white was good in its day...

Ok, here the spec so far, engine rebuilt, long stroke crank, 262cc, raptors, , keihin pwk from a raga, new betors, tyres and a bit of orange. I will not get the paint on the frame and forks done for exmoor but any suggestions? I have some nice fork stickers but have no idea. I have a red, white and black classic trial tank and side panels in those colours also... open to suggestions... Lee

I will show you at cove... L

Over here, 135 euros. I think bob wright may have them for 125 pounds UK

newly made, abs seat base not aluminizum. Rioberto, the guy that makes em, spenk 4000

perfect!! maybe available from bill pye or bob wright, if not available here in germany Not my work but pretty damm good I think!

I only got the orange rim on tge front so far. Picked up tge motor yesterday...... 263cc using an offset ground crank pin. Will get it running at the weekend. You will effectivly have dropped 10 piints at start of day one without gold rims L

Keep to the 428 chain. An R1 renthal in this size will last very well. A 520 chain weighs more and will use 1-2 HP from the motor

although martins fix will probably be more effective than mine ....or do you think the team riders loosened everything up after every trial....?

The 240 frt brake is usually very good if set up correctly....that being the point. Assuming the shoes have meat on them and are not glazed...if very shiny, the shoes should be generously roughened using course emery . Rub the shoes across the width to roughen. Then assemble exactly as below: Put all togther and leave all nuts loose. Use the cable adjuster to take up ALL the slack in the cable. Apply the front brake (lever) and hold securly applied with a strong tye-wrap or cable tie whatever you wanna call them Then tighten the axle clamp screws opposite the axle nut. Then the axle nut, then the clamp screws on the nut side. Drink a cup of tea, and tighten the torque arm at the bottom, then the top. Another tea and then tighten the mudguard brace. Then the cable can be adjusted for correct freeplay. The brake should work fine as is centered correctly. The 300 is the same diamenter and works just as well but for longer as it is self centering! If you dont want to re-morgage your house to buy a 300 frt brake, use a reamer to take 0.01mm mm off the hole OD where the axle passes through. Again, this will not give more braking power but will aid centering. Every trial, the lossening and tightening procedure can be repeated HTH Lee

hi cliff i will be there, i will be there, i ....will....be ....there 220 10w recomended by fantic. 10w is good for your lardy mass bur start with 190cc head races, knock em out with a screw driver, top lifts out...one on the bottom yoke needs a puller which cost 459 quid so heatv thze yoke, put in a press, and press the steerer our. re-assembly completely the other way leave all the weights ON all the time even at barbrook and its a madras fer me in the evening did yer book waterloo?

Steve F said the words about the motor and Hamish said it twice above, and is last twin shock was a 320 works majesty I believe...... The 240, as a modded chassis suits mem perfectly. The 300 motor squeezed in makes it a dream...IMO

Maybe put a dellorto on it....carburetors are just over engineered watering cans and if that be true an amal is a plated tin one with dents and rust!

i think about 50 quid,pm me for his email