southwester

Hi, I've just put +10% stiffer springs in my forks and shock on my rev3 thinking I was doing the right thing? On the rear I have to wind the preload nut nearly all the way up to achieve 1/3 rider sag 60mm which I don't think is quite correct and when off the bike the bike sag is 3mm at this setting, the forks drop 1/3 rider sag with about 17mm of bike sag with no preload. If I wind the nut on the rear shock virtually all the way down I end up with 9mm of bike sag and 79mm of rider sag. when jumping up and down on the pegs with 1/3 sag and 3mm of preload I can feel the rear topping out, I'll call it, but this doesn't happen with 9mm of bike sag. I've had the shock serviced by Andy Dawson with new bearings ect and new oil in forks and the new set up has about 4.5hrs of riding time on them. I had the rider sag set at 79mm or so on my 1st ride out on the set up and the with the forks at zero pre load 1st impressions were the fork spring is to stiff as I can feel it a bit more as the front wheel lands on the ground and it feels to hard to compress to unweight. So what I'm asking is it better to have the front and back set to a 1/3 rider sag with 3mm of preload on the rear and 17mm or so on the front or wind it down so I have more sag on the rear sacrificing the 1/3 which would upset the balance with the front with the stiffer spring in? Can anybody offer any advice on where I should be with this because I'm lost with it?

Just that!, is there a problem with the one not being in there, are they just to help get the fork seals out without knackering them, the fork seal buts up to the fork tube anyway.

Can anybody help with the following, the pictures are of the dampening fork with the parts apart from the seals that came off with the upper leg. The problem might be that there wasn't a cup shaped seal holder like in the picture on the other fork leg.

Beta uk would tell you if no else knows I asked the same for my rev I can't remember what it is but I did it once and it was as tight as it would go and I've just used a Allen key to hold back and a 24mm 10" ring spanner since. You could do that and then check it when your back at the van when your having a break. The Evo has a pretty good manual by the look of it but the Rev ones don't contain much either. The Evo manual probably got the torque measurements that would be a indication.

In England we call people who carry out a repair or installation of something and f**k it right up "Bodgers" or W*****s, I don't know if you use that term in the states! Sorted I will order some of that gear up tonight I also have a couple of little knicks the same tube that was leaking looks as though the bloke who butchered the fork seal out slipped with the hack saw and chopped into the fork leg! I read JB weld or super glue can be used to fill area and then sand down after with a 150 grade sanding pad or a sharpening stone, anybody done this before or make any suggestions?

I'm expecting my shock off of my rev back tomorrow from Andy, I spoke to the guy at Falcon he wanted a hundred + bearings ect postage and vat so more than andy. I made the mistake of getting involved with my bearings myself, waste of time! they cost me more than the Ohlins he machines down to fit the Paioli and are a swine to get out at least when the assembly was as corroded as mine, should have left it to a pro! I got to say it was a bit daunting sending it off to a guy whose number I got off the internet incase it was a rip off! but it's not! Send with confidence! If I don't get it back I'll let you know!

My disk side fork seal started leaking oil on my 07 rev 3 on the last ride and when I striped the fork apart as ryan youngs sherco guide and cleaned it up I can see that some ones previously got the seal out with a screw driver by the look of it and gouged the face where the seal seals against the inside of the fork, I have seen people speaking of liquid metal but haven't used it, would this be the most economical way of repairing this or is there a better way? Also I had a collar on one of the forks only As in the 2nd picture that sat on top of the bush but removed it from fork and didn't notice the orientation of it, I do know what fork it came off of though! On having a look at the Beta frame diagram it doesn't show this part on either part fork so can anybody confirm this it right and if so what way it up it go's.

That's good to hear. Yes Michelin

Just what I wanted to hear! I would best answer you if I wasn't on my phone. Cheers

I've ended up with a tube in a tubeless x11 rear because the fitter couldn't get the bead on the rim without it, he doesn't know about the doughnut that I have learned since you need. The problem might be that there isn't a rim lock on the rear so is this going to work? I'm booked in for a trial tomorrow and don't want to miss it and can't really do anything about it before. Anybody got any experience with this?

I have had mine off (07 rev3) to give it a good clean it before when I replaced chain and spokets and I definitely didn't carry out the strip down in the above post, looking at my bike it looks as though if you take mag cover, chain and maybe front sproket off that will be enough. Tools req would be chain breaker, circlip pliers and Allen keys.

Thanks for the advise I've just carried it out, I dropped the forks right out of the way and tapped axle through so I could inspect and grease bottom bearing. Bearings look to be in good shape as in no or little water has made its way in, steering column nut (my special tool was a pair of 12" Cresent grips, thanks for those USA) on top of stem below triple clamp was hand loose so this may of factored in to the problem! The cover beneath the nut looks as tough it has had some sort of black sealant round it at some point but I have packed it out with grease until it was oozing out when tightening. Dan I have the problem you refer to above where the top clamp is loose around the stem, you say use ptfe tape to pack out but that stuff is soft as s**t isn't it? and would squiggle out of the way in no time wouldn't it? Good tip about the clamps as well I doubt I would of thought of that!

I've noticed a rock so to speak when applying the front break on my rev 3, on inspection with the front wheel straight and off the ground with the bike on a stand I can notice back and forth movement between forks and frame. The nut on top off the yolk was loose so I tightened it but has made no difference. There looks to be another nut beneath the top yolk on top of there frame that requires a special spanner, would that be right?

There's the bikers rest as said above or search lower wembsworthy farm you can pay £5 and ride for the day, they hold trials there as well.

I best answered you! I shall do a search next time! Cheers

My mate had a pop on my rev3 and said the front brake felt funny, on inspection with the lever pulled in it the pads lock to the disk ok but the wheel moves slightly backwards and forwards independently from the disk. It does this front and back. Is this how it is or is there something a mis?

I turn my kit inside out so the mrs doesn't see how dirty it is and if it's really bad I put it in the machine myself!

I was struggling with grip on a muddy hill until a fellow rider asked what pressure I had in the rear which was 4 psi he advised me to drop it to 2 psi and that made it a lot grippier.

100-110mm would of been the standard setting recommended by beta would it? When you say front and back sus move together when pushing down on seat, is that they travel down the same amount or just move at the same time? Thanks for replys

I have been riding my 07 Rev 3 250 with the pre load in forks and shock maxed out as this is what it recommends in the owners manual for the forks for my weight (over 80 Kilo as I'm 15.5 stone) there is no mention for the shock so I maxed that out as well. There was 3/4" bike on ground fork sag but no rear sag set up like this also I've had rebound screws front and rear completely undone. Sag on the rear was about 3.5" with me aboard the bike From what I've read the spring rates if stock arnt the correct rate for my weight which I'm not really keen on changing as I'm only a beginner and have chucked a possibly unnecessary good few quid at it already, but I would like to do what is do what I can with what I got. Playing with the settings last week I wound out the fork preload adjuster all the way and slacked of the rear so I had about 3/4" bike on ground rear sag to see what the difference was, When I rode it Saturday the front wheel turned left and right while riding over rocks where it had held straight previously so I wound fork preload adjuster all the way back in again which sorted out that problem. Sag on the rear is about 4" with me aboard the bike I still haven't tried riding with adjusted rebound but with the fork adjuster screwed all the way out or in doesnt seem to make any difference whilst compressing them in the garage anyway. So as the owners manual recommends the fork preload is maxed out for my weight where is a good starting point for the rear sag without me on the bike as that seems all I can control, also I will screw rebound adjusters to the mid position if they do, do anything. Handlebars I have had handlebars with rise vertical up to now but have rotated them forward a few degrees to see what difference this makes? Any thoughts welcome

Ok thanks it seems to be running ok to my ear any way

Thanks for the pointers I used a 4mm or so Allen key to do the described that works well coupled with taking off the jubilee clip from the air box side of the carb. Cheers

Has anybody any good tips or tricks when it comes to putting the carb back in the bike after removal?, I can get it out reasonably ok but haven't been able to get it back in without removing the back of the bike. Ive already taken out the spacer between carb and reed block which helps to get carb out but seems vertually impossible to get back in with air box in position. Cheers

Well with 20 hrs or more on this plug it seems as if the tip of the electrode it's getting a darker grey and the oil seems to be moving from the base of the thread along the electrode towards the tip where there is a fleck of oily residue after the last ride.

I am thinking about getting the S3 kit how do you rate it so far? or anyone else who has it.