southwester

No I haven't measured ring end gap yet I put ring in cylinder do I and measure gap? Where in the cylinder does the ring need to be and what gap should it be. I rang Beta uk this morning and they said don't worry about the ring end gap if the cyl has been plated to new piston he said vertical lines in the bore is what happens and isn't a problem unless it can be felt with a finger nail. He also said they say 100-1 when breaking in and 70-1 after and recommend putoline oil.

I took cylinder and piston to a proper trials mechanic today and he thinks there may have been very slight burrs on the edges of the ports or some debris in the passages he said to degrease it and wash it with soapy hot water and put it back in worst case synario it will seize but he doubts it! Now I've cleaned it you can see the cross hatching under the scratches so the scratches arnt as deep as the cross hatching in most cases. I will put it back together for the weekend up the ante on the oil and keep the revs down for long periods for the first few times out. When assembling piston and cylinder I just give everything a lite coat of neat oil do I? and I didn't note which wat the piston went round is it arrow on top of the piston pointing to the exhaust and ring gap to the back? I didn't chose the strawberry oil it was thrown in when I purchased the bike is it no good? It smells nice!

Hi dadof2 head gasket in corrected position now, standard jetting, engine turns over easily and smoothly with plug out with plug in its hard as hell to kick over but was before pre having the cyl re plated? I know you mentioned before about checking the squish clearance re that comment but have not done so far. Re petrol that's right I've been using shell super unleaded I've looked at plug since re positioning head gasket and it's still grey so that's made no difference. I will take it back to the shop that rebuilt it show him the pictures and ask him to check ring end gap.

It's a pisser about the scratches on the brand new cyl but what's done is done filter, air box and carbs clean all joints in the intake train are tight I will have a blast around with the WD40 and see if there are any air leaks anywhere that could be letting some crap in.

Well it started first kick with the wires in there new position when in the past it's all ways been 2nd attempt so let's hope it stays that way and that's the end of it. I assume it was earthed when I had the kill switch and Cdi earth clamped on the regulator fixing stud at first then lost its path that's the only reason I can think of why it worked for a short period of time. Like I mentioned in a previous post I linked out the kill switch and Cdi earth terminals with a separate wire which isn't shown in the wiring diagram yet it sparked without it which I think its a good move as where the Cdi earth tag was located when I got the bike and is again now doesn't seem very good spot to me unless I'm misunderstanding its purpose. I haven't filed any anodising off or used any heat sink paste or star washers which I will if I got to go in there again. Anyway I hope that's it and there isn't a intermittent fault lurking and it's just coincidence it's sparking again after moving the Cdi earth. I think so I don't think it was the new kill switch as much as the brown earth wire coming from the Cdi yet not shown on wiring schematic not being connected to coil where an earth is shown on the wiring schematic whether there using the bracket the coil bolts on to as a earth and the brown gets ground anywhere I'm not sure. I ran it in the garden yesterday afternoon for a while and all seemed well but it's going to have to wait until Saturday for a real test.

I think I've found what it is when I took out the original kill-light switch and lighting wires I terminated the brown wire from the Cdi on the 12 volt adjuster stud along with the earth from the new kill switch, the brown wire was originally terminated on one of the fixings holding the coil on. I thought I read on here that was the best place to terminate the earths so it ran like that for 5 or so hours on two separate occasions until it stopped sparking. I didn't think that could be the problem because it had been running until I looked on the wiring schematic and it shows a earth either side of the coil and it was like that originally it doesn't show a earth-brown wire coming from the Cdi I put the bolt through the earth tag and the coil fixing hole held the plug up to the cylinder again and a nice blue spark:) I've ran a wire linking the earth from the kill switch to the coil earth to make sure there's good contact and it's back together and sparking. I'm not sure what happened there with it running for a while and then not but that's definitely how the wires were.

There's nothing on the outside of the fly wheel there's some threads where the fly wheel weight could bolt in but the bikes never had 1.

Yes plugs brand new, flywheel pickup close enough to the flywheel, I don't know about that how do I go about checking?

cheers I will try the drill out I'll have to check I got the kit to get from that socket size to my chuck size, I had the very tip of the plug touching the cyl head bolts.

I have checked for a spark with the plug insulator up against cylinder head bolt and cylinder and had the lights off but no spark. How do I go about getting the drill on the engine?

Spark plug caps ok I chopped a bit of wire off and re made joint the key hasn't sheared and the plate looks in tact and the stator is clean as it was when I first took fly wheel off with so signs of gunge or corrosion it looks like brand new. I noticed the coil has 5 kohm marked on it and it measures 9.6 kohms between the cap and spade connection on coil I don't know if it hasn't any relevance. I was getting up to 19 v AC from the red and black connections on the connecter that connects to the CDI if that has any bearing I'm stumped.

Took rad off and disconnected kill switch and still no spark ground/earth and all the other connections look ok any one got any ideas?

Ok I just read that he dosent go on to say if the stator was working ok.

Yes meters auto ranging and definitely reads .283 kohms which is 283 ohms like you say I've triple checked it as I couldn't work it out myself I don't know why it's ranging in kohms when it could read it in straight ohms so either the meters up the duff, or it measures k ohms with a point in front of it? Or there's a short?

I measured between the black and red I got .283 kohms rather than 321 kohms yellow to earth measures 0.6 ohms. I'm not sure why I've got a reading of .283 kohms doesn't seem right?

I recently replaced the beta one with a apico kill switch did away with the lighting loom re located the coil earth and kill switch earth on the frame above radiator. I will check it all out tomorrow make sure it's all connected and check kill switch I was wondering what to do if that was all well.

I got out on my bike today and after a couple of hours of pottering about the bike started spluttering like it was running out of fuel I didn't realise I had it on reserve already I got half way back to the car park and the engine cut out topped up the tank and when I re started it wouldn't idle so I adjusted idle and started to ride off when the bike spluttered and died. Now the bike won't start and there is no spark new plug or old riders where I was said it might be the stator as is a common problem does anybody know how to check them so can rule this out before I drain the coolant again! I have multi meter and the fly wheels off. Bikes a 2007 rev3 250

I ended up putting the original pedal back on after bending it within a couple of mm of the frame bent well out of shape really and taking a file to it like you said Mok the link needs to be round the other way anyway it doesn't rub any more. I think the underlying problem is the frames worn where the pedal pivots adjacent to it and as it's depressed it points inward towards the chain.

That's a film of oil on the head and piston crown it isn't pitted I had the bottom end pulled apart to make sure there wasn't any crap in there when having the cyl re plated and new piston and ring because it was worn. The lad who striped it down and rebuilt it said the bottom end was pretty clean with just a bit of gunk at the bottom. The filter was clean and well oiled so I don't know what could of made the scratches although there not noticeable to the touch. I pulled the exhaust off and the same scratches are noticeable on the piston.

What small bits are you talking about? and what rod the con rod? and why would there be ware on the cylinder to slack? Sorry for all the q's but I want to get to the bottom of this and ride it Saturday..

Your joking! What don't you like the look off I don't understand?

Yes fan was coming on and I will check impeller spins freely whilst coolants drained. The grey was caused by the mud around the exhaust? Fair enough. The reason I was going to try a 27.5 pilot was because the idle speed keeps increasing when turned out 3 turns and I read elsewhere rightly or wrongly that if it increases in speed past 2.5 turns out a smaller pilot jet is required. If anybody would like to enlighten me further feel free .

I've got a new head gasket and taken the head off and this is what the inside looks like also when I rode it it was muddy, I didn't think at the time but I had quite a lot of mud built up on the front pipe which probably wasn't a good idea whilst breaking a new top end in.

Hi Pete, The measurement you need is sag with all your kit on and the sus should drop a 1/3rd front and back you need someone else to measure it while you balance with suspension leveled on the bike. On the back you measure from the rear axle to the vertical point on the mud guard and on the front the fork travel I think, if I have that wrong someone please correct me. I assume the 1st (total travel measurement) is done with the wheels off the ground like when the bikes on a stand. I'm new to the sport myself but I think that's right! I weigh 15.5 St without my kit on and have noticed my bike go in to a deep sag when I stand on it I haven't measured it yet but thought I may benifit from a heavier gauge springs myself my bIke's a 2007 so they may be due a overhaul anyway.

Yes merry Christmas and happy new year Dan and every body. Thanks for the clutch fix post Dan I did it and tried for the first time Saturday bike now stays put on putting into 1st on start up and removing the two springs makes the clutch a lot smother. Cheers