d250b

Thanks! On that evidence, neither of them are correct? D

Just stripped down the forks to overhaul and send the tubes off for re-chroming because they were pitted and one was leaking. Got rather a surprise to find that they are different lengths? one is 57cm and the other is 54.8!! Which one is correct (if either)? And what would be my best way forward considering I was looking at about £160 to get those ones re chromed? In Motion and SMP don't have them listed and a google search hasn't come up with anything apart from stuff in the US. I'm not sure how a bike can function with two different tube lengths but both the top nuts were different and only one had a spacer. one of the legs was filled with a unique oil and water cocktail which wasn't doing much good either! Appreciate some guidance, thanks. D

Thanks Steve. I was hoping to stick with the piston I have, my neighbour who is a mechanic reminded me that there's a chap in the village who builds custom rally car engines and he would have the kit that could measure the piston and bore accurately. Cheers D EDIT: I ordered an exchange coil from In. Motion and it comes pre-wired so the wiring problem is taken care of.

Thanks very much John. I will get the piston out and look for the marks and rub off the top properly. I've got black, red, yellow and orange wire and I don't have any lights!!! I have two condensers with a spare up behind the steering head of the frame and I assume the wiring is normal but its just be redone at some point with odd bits of wire. What I was wondering was does the wire need to be of a certain rating for current/amps/volts etc, I want to get the right thickness for the job. I have some auto wire in the shed but it looks thinner than some of the wire on the bike. D

Could someone please enlighten me to the markings on the top of the piston please? was intending fitting a new set of piston rings before reassembly seeing as how I'd come this far anyway; so need to know what to order. I'd like to re-wire the ignition and join the wires better than they are at the moment, any idea what sort of wire I should use, i.e thickness/rating etc?? Thanks D

Thanks. Got the bearing out and it's goosed anyway. It was very difficult to make out the numbers but I believe it's a 6250, backed up by my measurements and a new SKF one is ordered.

So I seem to have 2 condensers?? the rusty one inside the ignition housing and that other one up behind the steering head? I haven't looked to see if the rusty one is not connected any more and as such has been replaced by the one up above. I've now got it cleaned up a bit and it looks a wee bit better and I think I'll just get an exchange coil to make sure everything is 100%. Over in the crankcase side, theres a large bearing race inside the clutch housing which is retained by a big circlip, I'm assuming that should that be packed with grease once Ive cleaned everything up and am reinstalling? can't find it mentioned in the manual. and would it require any sort of special grease given that there will be oil in there eventually. D

Naichuff, regarding the condenser, I Know there is a condenser on the stator between the coils but I also have this on the frame forward of the Ht coil and I assumed it was a condenser too??

Thanks for that, thankfully that missing stud just goes into the barrel section. The threads are totally goosed so we just need to find an appropriate insert/helicoil or other to suit. On the plus side the cylinder is perfect, not a mark. I still have to clean off the piston to find out if it's a re-bore but none-the-less it was nice to find it in good shape. bearings seem fine too so i will leave the rest well alone!!

Thanks for the replies, sounds like I should stick with points rather than going electronic. Is the missing head stud not a big issue? To the uneducated it sounds like it should be quite serious. If I wanted to correct it, is this do-able? Or should. I just leave it??? Nice to know I've got a steering lock! But unfortunately didn't get a key with the bike:-)) D

I'd appreciate some further advice and info on my Sherpa 190 please. Photo1 What do you think of the stator in the photo? wire not broken but part of the yellow plastic is. the bike was running prior to strip down but this doesn't look very good does it? I got the right tool to hold the flywheel but there are marks on it to suggest someone's tried to do it without it in the past. There's quite a bit of corrosion on some other parts in there too. Would I be as well changing for electronic ignition when i rebuild? and if so which make is the best? Photo2 The manuals refer to 6 cylinder head studs/nuts. (The old Haynes manual says they should be taken off in strict order but the Bultaco uk manual only mentions tightening them up in strict order). I only have 4 studs (14mm nuts) plus the single 13mm bolt that was on the top engine stay. There is no stud/nut beneath the dummy spark plug; is this right?? Photo3 What's this funny wee bit on the side of the frame at the headstock? (apologies for the monster photos but I've not worked out if it's possible to resize them.) Thank you. D

thought i would upload a pic of the fork end now that its been welded and sorted out. very pleased with the outcome and he's also fixed a crack in the crankcase cover and it looks spot on too.

As a follow up, having seen the condition of the wheels, what would you suggest I should do to tidy them up? I'm not looking for show bike finish but want to get them looking appropriate for the bike once it's got the frame repainted etc. Is there a specialist out there that does them or could it be DIY? Thanks D

Thanks Woody, that's good news; could see a new set of wheels coming there for a minute I will get the proper spacer sorted for the rebuild and the fork leg is already with the blacksmith to get welded up to repair the damage. I will also renew the larger spacer on the other side since it's not perfect either. Thanks for your help! D

Thanks Woody, here's the picture of the front and I've put in one of the rear wheel too because they are of the same design. I would say that the damage has definitely been done by this wheel/spindle combination as the right hand side of the hub looks like it's been burred by the action of gouging the fork leg; but it's sort of reached a point where the damage is done and it now spins freely when turned by hand. I've studied photos of other 190's but never paid much attention to the wheels/hubs. Cheers David

Been stripping down the bike for the first time for an overhaul and noticed this problem with the front wheel alignment. Part of the hub has gouged out some of the lower fork leg. Its spins completely free so the bearings appear fine and it looks like all the parts are in place according to the parts manual I have (perhaps missing a split washer for the spindle nut?). The first photo shows the gouge and the second the apparently complete spindle. The only thing I can see about the spindle components is the larger of the 2 spacers is flared slightly on each end which you can just make out in the photo. When I spun the wheel before disassembly it did not have what I would have said was an undue amount of 'buckle', only a wee bit of deviation from true. After I discovered it I reinstalled the wheel and I just can't see how there is a problem. I assumed that when I looked at the parts list I'd find a bit missing but it doesn't look like it!? I just kept going with the strip down so it's all in bits now. Appreciate any ideas as to what's going on. Thanks Just looked again at the parts list, is it possible that the spacers have been mixed up and the bigger one should be on the nut side? although wouldn't that make the problem worse??

Thanks for the replies, it's now back on the bike and once I've got the air filter sorted we'll see how she goes. Cheers D

When re-assembling an Amal carb, should you put anything on the new float chamber gasket? Oil or grease? Or should it go in dry? Also, would you put a wee bit of grease or Vaseline on the rubber 'o' rings on the jets? Cheers D

Understood, thanks very much for all the help. Next job to give the carb a thorough clean and take it from there. Cheers D

Here's the view from the front, the slide is up a few mm but not as much as the rear. When I twist the throttle and let it down there's a definite noise as if its bottoming out rather than just sticking. So if it was set properly there would be no gap at all on this side with the throttle shut?

thanks, will do. hopefully have it off in a day or two when i get a chance. Cheers

Mmmmmm, somehow knew this wouldn't be straightforward! The photo is what I can see at the moment. Suppose the best thing is to dismantle and clean and see how things look then. The slide certainly moves free enough up and down when I twist the throttle but of course it could be failing to go fully down.

Thanks for the replies. I'm about to cut my mechanical teeth on this old girl so this won't be the last time I need pointing in the right direction. As a supplemental; I know they're worlds apart but I found a YouTube video of a guy sorting an Amal on an old Norton or Triumph; he had the slide up 1mm. When I look into mine it's up about 10mm from the bottom, is this normal on a Sherpa?

Hi, I want to remove the Amal carb from my newly acquired Sherpa mod. 190 1977 250 for cleaning. The throttle cable enters the top of the carb through a black knurled cap which looks like it should just screw off but its really tight. Before I go and break something can someone tell me if this is the case and how to do it properly please?? Cheers