lotus54

OK, I forgot that. There is no play in the 20 mm pin (which is smaller now, since it has needle bearings, but much stronger material)

Those are the places to check (and upper damper). Can you see where the play is? This does have very good tolerances. .0005”

I’ve always used the only oil the importer in the States told me to use. Maxima Extra 4 0-10W full synthetic. It has always worked very well for me. Since it sounds like it used to work, but has gotten worse, of course bleed clutch. But I suggest also changing gearbox oil- making sure to drain it all (on later bikes bottom screw allows clutch side to drain, otherwise loosen all a bit and move cover out slightly). Then fill with 450cc of oil. It will be well over the sign glass. That was made back when it only used 350cc, but OSSA found that the Italians were running 450 and not having any issues, while others using spec were. So I use that in all models (with appropriate hose routing). Clutch plates perhaps could use a ‘deglazing’ but I would try other things first.

No play in this setup. But certainly if any pins/bushings/bolts worn it will have play. I would have liked to use needle bearings for front pivot, but doesn’t look like enough room. But the most stressed one is the middle one (I think) and that is now needle bearings. Also check the bottom damper bushing

I have the slightly modified version installed. I very slightly changed some tolerances (the place making them follows better than I expected). And had to change the ‘dogbone’ to similar thickness to stock, although a bit taller. (Would not clear Olins). I really like the almost flush grease fittings. They work really well and easier to access. Just require a very inexpensive adapter. Works great!

I’ve never had them leak, but of course things are getting older. You could always use a ‘regular’ clamp- I like the ‘euro style’ ones. Like these (but the Norma ones are about the best) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CVQJ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Original is steel w/teflon coating. This has the same except middle ‘main’pin that is now needle bearing. When I have final fitting done I will let you know. I have to make another bit of a change to clear Ohlins damper- the Ollé is smaller diameter. But that is what initial testing is all about.

Yes, Explorer and TR are the same. The grease fittings are there- I used flush ones that use a ‘needle’ type end. Three of them could have ‘regular’ zerk fittings, but the one for the main pin does not really have enough room. Before I sell any, I want to make sure everything is just right. I have made some little mods. I wanted to keep as thick as possible for strength, but also need to have clearance for the Ohlins or the Olle dampers since the springs are a bit different in size.

Side by side with factory, and mounted in swingarm. Dogbones are 10mm thick and original is 7mm. Plus made from Ti grade 5 vrs some sort of aluminium for stock.

No, it should have very linear power. The 300 factory has a LOT of power as you run it up, but a regular 280 should be really nice ll along. I would suspect the TPS, but of course all the components work together. I suggest doing a compression test (throttle wide open, kick until gauge stops) and make sure it is good. Then get the cable (I can send software if you don’t have it anymore) and set everything up properly.

I made only very minor changes and they would not be apparent at all in pictures. Like .001” dimension change

BTW, I am making some slight modifications to my first version. I found I can really trust the tolerances of the company and someone gave me a good idea of a slight shoulder on the small pin. They are not big or heavy, so certainly could ship. Again, not trying to make any money here- just trying to help out. Heck, I can’t imagine making much of anything anyway, so may as well feel good about helping.

I am going to order another (for my second bike). If anyone wants one, speak up now. The needle bearings I sourced were a bit expensive, I will look for less cost source (they were $50). I think $650 would cover it. With bearings, bushings and grease fittings I am not making any money at all- but just helping others out. I broke two of the original linkages, but the Ti one on my old bike is still going great.

After getting the OSSA ones done- I don’t think doing one in Ti for the Cota would be that expensive. But I need one to model, then I can send files and get quote.

Thanks for all the info. I will pass along