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Posts
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I can only thing of the hole where the sensor goes in. But I would have to look at it again
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Yes, Trials was the only innovation they had to production for modern OSSA. They made one non-operational prototype enduro (for sale now) but never got even a running prototype. To bad, it had interesting ideas.
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I don’t think a drain hole. With the location and original top, I’ve never gotten water or even much of anything in the airbox. Around here (not much dust) I almost never had to clean it.
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OSSA has a quite modern bike- the gearbox re-design for servicing already done. Just a few things and would be competitive again.
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lotus54 started following Ossa back? , OSSA Gearbox removal (revisited). , Air box removal and 1 other
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The 2015 Explorer I recently got was worked on by someone that should not be allowed anywhere near one of these- heck and bike at all. Due to some issues from wrong assembly etc, I wanted to pull gearbox. There are very small screws with a 3mm allen. Why so small, I have no idea. They are plenty big for a much larger head. Anyway, one of them had the allen stripped by the person, another the allen wrench broken off. Fortunately, I came across this before and the fix was easy. I found some small mounted stones that I could use with my Foredom dental handpiece. I connected up a vacuum to get away as much grit as I could, and made an opening in the clutch hub a bit larger. That way I can fit in the special turned down ‘RocketSocket’ and take those out. About 20 minutes of grinding, tapping in the RockeSocket and both were out! Yes, it will require very careful cleaning. But it is out and I can address everything. Too bad OSSA didn’t make those opening a little larger to begin with and make those bolts a better setup. Maybe I will design some that will take a 5mm allen. I think I will
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I pulled one recently. If I recall… First I removed the radiator. It is really easy to remove and gives a lot more room. I unlcip the top hose (put a small tool under one of the small holes and they pop right apart) with both hoses unclipped, move it back a little to disengage from airbox, then sift up. You can pry, but be very caerful. Undo power to fan before complete removea. Remove throttle body, move airbox up a bit- then very carefully remove sensor- I suggest warming the hose and grommet and do NOT force it. They break very easily. Once those are out, it will pull down and out easily.
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I get parts from the UK for my Lotus all the time. Usually the costs are not that much at all (a full chassis on the other hand cost more to ship than it cost). The Ti is pretty light.
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No, I am in the States.
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I got a quote from a different outfit. Looks like I could sell them for about $600 in Titanium, with all the pins included. I am ordering one set and I will see how the quality is and do a final on making sure my design is correct. I already fit my 3D printed parts and all seems good, but of course I cannot put any sort of load on the plastic parts at all. This is good news. The main link bearings is additional cost, the ones I got so far were not cheap- but I likely could source the same ones someplace else for less. It will have small grease fittings on all the pins.
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I looked up how much these cost in Ti when the place in Europe was making them several years ago- over $1000. I did some minor changes- fit my 3D printed parts to the bike to make sure things fit right and there is clearance and they fit. Not much room in there to make things much different, so really a change of material is about it. I don’t think enough room to put needle bearings on the front pivot and fitting in the rear (in the swingarm) would likely require machining the swingarm- and I doubt enough material to do it anyway. But the middle pin gets the most stress anyway (well, I think so) and certainly the most exposed to the elements. If anyone wants a set, let me know. I have not ordered one yet, still checking a few sources, but plan to do so I think. edit; The Czech made set I had also used the 16mm pin and I found it very robust- the bike is still out there running with the setup (I sold it a few years ago to try electric- but the EM had too short of range). They kept with the teflon bushings, which are a bit of a pain to get out (reinstalling is easy). Plus I think the bearings will be quite a lot easier on the pin.
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2015 Explorer. I’ve seen several Explorers that had the rear fender mount areas broken- there the huge handrail is mounted. I take those off anyway, since they get in the way when getting weight wayback. So I designed some bushings that will fill the broken sections and press against good part of the fender. This allows easy firm mounting of fender without grabrail, especially if the parts are broken.
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Recently I heard they are moving along well with electric motorcycle. I have not heard about any petrol ones-either yes or no. My understand is OSSA was never merged with GasGas. They just had an agreement for joint manufacturing/distribution. When GasGas went under, OSSA was still ‘alive’ but of course didn’t have a place to build bikes or ship anything. I’m sure they didn’t have money, the reason for that joint venture in the first place.
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I got one quote for the modified linkage in Ti. I think in the $850 range, plus getting two needle bearings for the centre link- getting rid of the bushings. I think that one is the highest stress (why OSSA when to a larger pin for 2015). My design has the pin back to original size so standard needle bearings with seal can fit in. Made in Ti rather than aluminium is should be more than strong enough. That is just the first outfit I tried- I was hoping for a lower cost but that is the quote. If I got 5 sets, it would be cheaper. Steel was cheaper, but not hugely (I will price that out also). These have lubrication fittings, to make daily servicing a LOT easier. Still no seals on any but the needle bearing, but I found if you can pump some grease through- it pushed most of the junk out of the bushing, making them last much longer. Anyone really interested, let me know. But I suspect cost is too high for most. (I’ve broken a couple linkages, that is why I am considering it)
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I am in NW Washington State- right across from Victoria, BC
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Really need to have one to assure dimensions are correct.