lotus54

I had found the FI very, very reliable with quite minimal maintenance required. I like it. Software access was easy (of course now that OSSA is not in business, finding the interface now is difficult, but setup was super easy) But I certainly understand those not wanting to get into the FI world. The CV carb on my 300 4T works pretty well, but I wonder how it would be with FI similar to the Montesa (another bike I seriously looked into buying). just my thoughts- what do I know?

I have a 2016 Evo 300 4T It has a Grimeca caliper. Anyway, what it the consensus for the best brake pad for mud. It has some Galfer in there now, I can’t read the number. Looks physically the same as the SRS 802. Anyone have their favorite for mud? (Knowing the number for the rear would be handy also, just looking at the front at the moment) Mark

The OSSA injector goes directly into the crankcase- right at the rear transfer port. Not really that much different Than the KTM (only one injector of course), it is NOT throttle body injection. I do not know how the Vertigo is setup.

I didn’t see anyone mention this (sorry if I missed it). Make sure there it play between the lever ‘rod’ and the piston in the master cylinder. If the adjustment is too tight, the piston cannot come all the way back and it will do as you describe. Also check the adjustment that controls how far OUT the lever sits- if it is too far toward the handlebar it will do the same thing.

Also make sure your HotStart valve is not open. That will make it run lean with pops etc. Although not the rest of it.

Make absolutely certain the brake rod has clearance to the master cylinder piston. AND that the piston is coming all the way back down. Mine had that haywire ‘sideways lid’ on the master. So I need to either bleed from the back and open the screw- or use a syringe to bleed from the front. mark

For the front you can still run Tubliss. I find it works very well (I’ve gotten pinch flats with the stock tube). If your rear is a tubeless rim, then bring some plugs and a small pump. If a non-tubeless rim, then run Tubliss (I do on my OSSA Explorer, works fabulous). mark

PM me your email address. mark

I’ve been using Motorex 2T full synth. I started using it with my KTM 300 when new and it always seemed to work well so kept with it. I have a mixing container that shows very lean mixtures, so I just measure out the appropriate amount and put it into a 5 gallon container before putting in the fuel. The rush of from the pump mixes is really well. Plus I have it a few shakes after and before every fill. Lewisport told me to run 100:1 in the explorer, so that is what I have done. I’ll bet I could run less with no problems, it did have some carbon build up on top of the piston after almost 400 hours. But since everything looks so good I’ll likely stay at around 100:1. I do run around 110:1 in my Factory 300 OSSA- but I do more road connections with the Explorer (it is plated). I think the mixing container I have is from the boat section of the local ‘has everything’ store. Mark

I didn’t take it as an attack at all. I figured you were just clarifying. Glad to have the discussion. Mark

You are certainly correct, and I’m sure those work fine. That’s why I said ‘personally’. I make that choice for a few reasons, 1. The dealer (who would do warrarnty claims when applicable) told me specifically to use it. 2. I like the extra protection of a full synthetic. 3. It has worked well (so far) and see no reason to change. 4. I ride in cold weather often and I like the multi-weight capabilities (perhaps doesn’t matter) I’m not saying I’m right, just what I do. (I run full synthetic in my Beta 4T, Ducati and AJP, Car and Van also) mark

This is what Lewisport told me to use (US Importer). I’ve got almost 400 hours on the Explorer with no problem at all. Piston looked excellent, cylinder like it had maybe 20 hours. rings were worn.

I’m sure the Explorer pegs will fit right on. The bike is the same, just cheaper suspension, wheels and the added subframe seat/tank. I use 0-40, remember, it has to lube the main bearings also. I would persponally not use gear oil or ATF. (I’ll go look in the garage and see what I’ve been using the last 400 hours)

I’ve used a number of different types. Silicone with teflon waterproof Belray another waterproof (can’t remember the brand) I didn’t notice much difference. If you ride in the mud a lot, they take a lot of maintenance. If you don’t ride mud/water- they seem to need minimal once lubed initially. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042FG74W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Where did you find the proper connector that plugs into the bike’s diagnostic port? I have the pins, but cannot find the plug. mark

There is another thread on this. Of course, I forget the brand/type I’m using at the moment. I’ll try to find it and update this. note the gearbox oil lubes the main bearings on this bike, so I would make sure to use a good full synth oil and change often.

As mentioned, that is the stock 4T throttle. Mine says ‘Domino’ cast on the bottom. I have no clue if the plastic Domino housing tubes will interchange (I have some around, so I could check some time)

Mine has been very reliable (almost 400 hours now). So far, no issue getting parts (like mentioned, many are standard Trials parts). But I agree it is not worth what it would be if they were still producing them. (Owner still claims to be trying to get it going again- but...)

I second that comment about watching the kickstart bolts. I locktite mine and they seem to stay relatively well. But they still tend to come loose. I’ve broken the linkage, so regular maintenance/inspection is a good idea I think. I’m running a Ti setup with zerk fittings now. One thing I wish they did was run regular bearings with seals and zerks. But probably for most trial uses the factory setup is fine (I ride trails most of the time). I use a filter/funnel for all my fuel. Changing the fuel filter is a pain (the engine has to come out)- and while it doesn’t need to happen very often, I’d like to keep it to a minimum. The filter and fuel pump are common parts. I’ve found about every 100 hours mine have liked to have the TPS reset. Easy if you have the cable and software. I wish BTWICE was still selling them. (Factory ones were ludicrously expensive) I also change gearbox oil often, it also lubes the main bearings. I loosen all the clutch bolts and pop the cover out a bit to drain the last- it seems to work well for me that way. I also measure how much I get out to make sure I get it all. I fit a ‘Super Easy Start’ that I came up with on both of mine. It is good for troubleshooting as well as making it really easy to start. Mine likes a very healthy kick, make sure to take slack out of kickstart mechanism first (like all bikes really) Mine have been really good for me. I have almost 400 hours on my Explorer, although I recently got a Beta 4T to use a bunch of the time to keep from getting quite so many hours on the OSSA. If they were still making them I probably wouldn’t have done that. have fun with it! Mark

On my 2016 4T I just gently kick it over. I was used to kicking my OSSA, which requires a healthy kick- but the de-compressor on the 4T seems to be quite effective and I just push the start lever down fairly slowly. Starts really well. I have no idea how different the older bikes are. Someone told me they used a lot of RFS design and maybe even some parts fit. But I have never looked inside both so no clue if that is a possibility or not. I would hope that gear is different than the newer ones, or I would certainly hope Beta at least had some of those in stock someplace! since it has broken so many times, it certainly seems to be underdesinged! mark

Check the fuel cap breather also. (Since it ran and stopped) Also, from my experience, every 100 hours or so the throttle body sensor should be set and reset. It can make the bike run quite rich if it is not right. mark

I would hook up a 12V battery to the appropriate ports diagnostic cable- this will run the fuel pump and let you know that it is working or not. I have a momentary button on both my modern OSSAs, it works as a ‘super easy start’ and also troubleshooting. Certianly next would be to check connections- but hooking up to the software would be by far the easiest. it will give you errors shown. oh yeah, check that the kill button or wire is not shorted out. mark

I got it back in. Just for anyone else (or if I’m looking and can’t remember Next time) I turned the bike upsidedown (rear suspension/swingarm and Forks were already off). I put the engine in from the left, got the rear mount lines up and put in a loose fitting drift just to keep it in place. Next I moved the front up- carefully moving the fuel hose (don’t want to break that plastic fitting) wires etc. I levered up the frame a little (it is pretty flexible without the engine bolted in). Slowly I moved it so the front mounts lined up. Now to get everything else back together and see how it is with a new piston/rings. Mark

Dang, heck if I Remember the trick I used when I removed the engine. I remember thinking ‘I need to remember how I pulled this out’. Yeah, sure. I recall it is sort of partly sideways, but I can’t remember if the front part or the back part clears the mounts first. It is pretty tight. Anyone that has done it remember?

Does your 300 have the Termi exhaust? I have not tried fitting my Explorer subframe on my 300 factory to see if it clears the exhaust or not.