lotus54

Make sure to check the COM port on your driver. Then match that. (See my picture)

Seems to me I had to make sure and pick the correct USB ‘port’ also.

I have what I believe is the BTWICE cable. (USB) PM me your email and I’ll send. Mark

Here is what I’m using. This is Win7 and it works just fine- I just connected to my Explorer (of course, the injector is off since the engine is out and it sprayed fuel all over). Hope it helps. mark

I’m trying to get my old diagnostic laptop to boot, still being recalcitrant. But I’ll post my driver info as soon as I do. mark

I’ve heard a couple people said they were going to try to make one- but I don’t know of anyone that has actually done it.

The diagnostic software is certianly still around (I can send you a copy)- the cables are a bit harder to find. I can think of a few things. 1. Do you see any fuel on the sparking plug? If no- then you may have a clogged fuel filter. it is a common type filter/pump. But rather a pain to replace (the engine needs to come out). 2. If you see fuel on the plug, it may have sheared the flywheel woodruff key. The timing is all off then.

If I recall, the early ones used circlips to hold it all together- later ones used bolts. But the bushings were the same size (except as noted).

The part numbers are on the bushes. But I’m pretty sure they are listed on the OSSA forum. I have them here also- but I need to get around to finding them and posting. Oh yeah, after 2015 the ‘middle’ link bushing is larger.

Yes, the bushings are avliable- they are standard parts. I bought them by the box from a bearing supplier. The Ti linkage is still available also (still uses bushes, but has zerk fittings for easy lube).

I think they are VERY well mannered in running- superb for ‘carburation’ (Of course they are FI). Handle very well, and top notch components. Both of mine have excellent build quality. They are very light and responsive. The early linkage isn’t as good as the later ones (durability wise). AT last that is what I see. But I put a lot of hours on my Explorer. It is very similar to the 2016 300 Factory 4T Beta I recently got. (The regular TR OSSA is quite a bit lighter). mark

I still have the 14 Factory 300r I don’t ride it very much, but it is super fun. Much better bike than I am a rider! (Well, I actually *could* ride a lot better and harder stuff, but I’m scared of getting hurt, even just a little. At my age things don’t heal so quickly anymore!) If they don’t start making them again, I could always install the tank/seat on the factory and use it. That is sort of in the back of my mind. (Unless someone comes along that really wants it and will use it- then I’d sell) mark

I bought a 2014 OSSA Explorer new as soon as that year was avliable. I’ve been riding the heck out of it ever since, some trials, mostly trails. Even some road. I have almost 400 hours on it, so I decided I’d better pop the cylinder off and check out the piston/rings/cylinder. (I also suspected I may have a head ‘O’ ring leaking a little). I couldnt’ believe how good it looked. I’ve seen 2-strokes with 40 hours look way worse. Hone marks still clean in the cylinder, no scoring, just a bit of ‘staining’. The piston looks great, a little blow by on the sides, none on the thrust faces at all. I have not measured the ring end gaps yet. The rings seemed to be a bit ‘gummed up’- but it is also quite cold in the garage. Perhaps the 100:1 was a bit too much? (I ran the full synth Motorex since new). Or maybe once it warmed up there was no issue at all. For 400 hours I was very impressed. I have a new piston kit- I’ll measure the rings and decide what I want to do. Might change it and keep the original as a spare, or just clean it up and put it back in for another 400 hours. I did get a Beta 300 Factory 4T - I wanted to keep from running up TOO many more hours on the OSSA. I still like the bike more every time I ride it, but the Beta is great fun also and I like the 4-stroke fuel mileage. (the OSSA isn’t bad, but the Beta is better). Power on the two bikes is actually quite similar. Torquey, smooth delivery, very controllable. The 4T does have a LOT more engine braking, sometimes I really like it (long, steep downhills) sometimes I don’t (along the flats with throttle on/off). With the longer range tank/seat on the Beta they weigh about the same (OSSA is street legal and plated). Mark

I would suggest looking for a 2014 and newer bike. They are well sorted by then. Parts are still available, but of course since not currently in production future spares that are OSSA specific could be troublesome. They claim to be starting in again- but I’ll believe it when I see it. (But would certianly like it). I have two- my Explorer has almost 400 hours and see my post about what it looked liked. Great bikes- run fabulous, but a couple of things to know and of course potential parts issues. mark

I still have not seen any more weeping, and the coolant level has been good. Perhaps it was just not happy going from hot Arizona to cold NW Washington state! Rebelling against the snow. mark

I use a bit of Hylomar. Seems to hold up well and do the job nicely.

No water in the oil- I did see some drips out the ‘weep’ hole in the water pump. Since there are two seals, it can leak out but not into the oil (so I understand). It hasn’t seeped any more, but I have the parts (to be ready). Thanks mark

2016

I didn’t think of that.

Yes- I probably could do that, although (so far) I am liking the gearing. I’ll think about that thanks mark

My 300 evo 4T came with a chain that has a half link. I dont’ like non-O ring chains around here- I ride in the wet and mud a lot and I find standard chains wear out very quickly. I I have used DID VTX2 chains on my OSSAs, they are narrow and will fit with just a bit of trimming on guide. BUT- they don’t make a half link for those. If I extend to a full length, the axle won’t go back far enough. If I take the half out- it won’t go far enough forward. anyon know of a narrow ‘O’ ring chain that has half links? mark

I found one thread on this- but it wasn’t really clear to me. I have not had any experince with these engines yet. I believe I am due for a water pump seal replacement. Perhaps the shaft should be replaced at the same time. I could not discern if the water pump shaft can be removed without the gear driving it being disturbed. It appears that the engine needs to be at least pivoted down to remove the cam cover, and probably that would be the safer way (?) but who has done it ‘in sutu’ and just removed/replaced the shaft and seals? thanks for any help. Mark

That is great to hear. Our local club has really freindly, helpful members and from my first trial I felt very welcome and got lots of help. Interestingly, my first trial was really muddy and slippery, and I did really well (won the novice class). It was much like what I ride all the time so right up my alley. Now...get into rocks and it is a whole other matter! Mark

It could have air in the clutch line- make sure you have a little gap in the lever pin to master cylinder piston. Also make sure to check if it uses mineral oil or DOT 4 Brake fluid. DO NOT use the wrong type!

They do make a 15-50 I’m not sure that it is any better than any other top oil, just using it since the PO had great results. https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/300v-factory-line-road-racing-15w50