lotus54

Two of my four current OSSAs

Is it a rich or lean flat spot? You could try changing idle mixture and see if any difference, then raising the needle (lower the circlip) and see if it gets better or worse.

No- when you read the firmware version it shows it has a dual map. It doesn't not show details about how the map actually works (rich/lean/advance etc). Software is readily available, just the cables are not currently abundant. (Especially reasonably priced ones). Both ECUs use the same cable and software, just a different end for the 4 pin vrs 6 pin.

What is the engine number? Looks like someone already changed the carb- but I had excellent results with an OKO conversion from Mid-Atlantic Trials.

I ended up getting a different bearing puller and they pop right out. But I'll keep the square drift in mind. mark

I'm not quite sure yet. It seems map 2 is milder than 1. But I also don't know if the engine needs to be restarted after a switch- or it will do it dynamically. Or perhaps on this particular map, there is not much difference between them. It doesn't say in the software description.

I can't seem to find the info, so thought I'd ask. 2014 Factory 300. There are two maps- 1 and 2. What do the two positions do? Which is 'soft' and 'hard'? I see on some other maps they list which is which (or 'hard' and 'Road' etc), but the Factory one does not. Thanks Mark

I've had very quick results ordering from Trials and Tribulations (England) https://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=index&manufacturers_id=7 Lewisport in the States has quite a stock also; http://www.lewisportusa.com/

looks great! How does it ride?

Where are you located? The bushing are easier to source in Europe it seems. Assuming you are buying in bulk. Trials And Tribulations does have them one by one. I was thinking the early bikes had bushings in the rear wheel? Did they change to bearings by 2012? I have the number written down someplace, but you can get the number off the bearing also. Mark

I made a very basic block diagram for the 'Super Easy Start'. I'll take some pics on the Factory 300 and where I put the battery etc. If I could find a decent source for the connectors, I could make these up ready to plug in. Ask any questions- I'll get the battery I'm using also. I only rarely charge it, since it only has a draw when the button is held down, it lasts a very long time. OSSA super-easy start.pdf

On my Explorer I needed to raise the radiator just a bit or it would not clear the fan mount. It just wasn't coming out. Fortunately, it is easy to raise, just drain coolant, unclip the lower hose to water pump and push it up a little. The 300 Factory actually looks like a little more room. I fit an 11 tooth countershaft sprocket to the Factory to match the one on my Explorer. It really helped for me and my use. Plus then they react a lot closer to the same. I have a bunch of hours on the Explorer and ride it most of the time, so I don't want to figure it out differently every time. Mark

Every vintage OSSA I've seen has Cotter pins (split pins) there each individually. Safety wire might be easier, but I would probably just fit the cotter pins again.

I'm going and a checker helper.

This was last thursday heading to a two-day Trial in Goldendale, WA (they had a World Round there about 2001) I had a great time- but rocks scare me (I usually ride logs, roots and mud) so I dropped back to Novice. %5BURL=http://s298.photobucket.com/user/lotus54/media/A-I%20trips/Deschutes_SP_DSC00423_zpsbbjvilov.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm256/lotus54/A-I%20trips/Deschutes_SP_DSC00423_zpsbbjvilov.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5D http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm256/lotus54/A-I trips/Deschutes_SP_DSC00423_zpsbbjvilov.jpg[/IMG]

I installed my 'Super Easy Start' on my 'new' 2014 Factory 300 R. the little battery is strapped along side the Capacitor behind the headlamp- + from the battery goes to the button on the handlebar- other end of the switch goes back down, then to the diagnostics port. - from the battery goes right to the diagnostics port. No charging or anything, only works while holding the momentary button down. This bike started for me pretty easily, but I like the potential trailside troubleshooting capabilities, MUCH easier starting if I were to run out of fuel and easier starting if I don't give it a good kick. I'll try to take pics tomorrow- I STILL never made a diagram but I'll try to get on that. Mark

I understand Lewisport has a jig used in transmission reairs- and I believe have been sourcing parts etc. So far, most stuff seems available (stuff like stickers and some plastic not so easy) Some changes were made to later transmissions- it may be good to see if any upgrades could be made at the same time. Mine at over 330 hours is still working great.

Here is the original bulb. http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm256/lotus54/OSSA/25571c765c56f8b2b28ca6393b2da172_zpswlruyx2y.jpg[/IMG]

Yes, they got back to me and said they have nothing that will work directly. The one I have will work if I fabricate an short pipe. thanks Mark

I ride mud a LOT. (I trail ride very tight stuff all the time). For me, I keep very low tyre pressure, very, very light throttle and lug the engine. Often I'll use 1st gear and tractor. If I'm tired or really slick, I'll site way back so the front tyre is just barely on the ground (I have a real seat). This is quite effective for me (but of course I'd likely get a 3 if in a section). I can do quite well unless the mud gets up over the foot pegs and the higher clearance enduro bikes have ridden through. Then it will just stop if going slowly. (Same in deep snow). All these other guys know way more than I do, but it seems to be effective for me. (Especially since I'm trying to save energy, just get through while not falling and not worried about 'dabs') I was trying to find a vid I've done, but couldn't really find one. this one isn't particularly muddy- but VERY steep and quite slick (wet salal). The guy in front was on an enduro bike, so have the extra weight to deal with (he is a lot better rider than I am). But perhaps my thoughts on low engine speed and no spinning will come through. Again- this just works for me, and perhaps might help in a section were you are going to get a 5 or get a 3 instead.

I did send a message to him. thansk

Anyone have good solutions for a spark arrestor on a Termi? The exhaust doesn't stick out- but the inner (toward center of bike) part is flush. So the type I have won't fit. I suppose I can fabricate a pipe that will go inside the Termi exit and inside the arrestor. (The arrestor I use fits right on the standard exhaust) But I' like to hear if anyone has a better solution. Mark

Yes, that is the same version I'm running. I did try a few different ones on my Explorer.

Here are a couple of documents. 2012 03 26 Ossa TR280i TROUBLESHOOTING ENGLISH.pdf Instructions.pdf

Anyone know which is the 'soft' on the map switch on these? The map loaded doesn't say two different ones in the description like some do- but reported to have that feature. I haven't really had it out enough to figure it out. I never got around to modifying my Explorer to use two maps- but it would be handy (like using one of the maps with 'road' and 'trail' settings) mark