lotus54

Yes, those connectors on the bottom are very much in the line of water/mud. They operate the fuel pump. mine were nicely sealed and clean the times I've checked. BUT certainly high on the regular maintenance like I think.

I don't now recall who was having some odd running issues, but thought I'd post this idea up for anyone now or future. My 2014 Explorer (same as trials with added subframe, tanks, seat etc) had an off-idle 'burble' a couple of times. At around 100 hours, then again around 200 hours. A TPS adjustment/reset solved those. Normally it runs nice and clean from idle all the way to max rpm. No burbling or richness. A few months ago it started again, and nothing seemed to solve it in the 'usual' areas. But I had never taken the main ECU connector apart. All the other connectors on the bike were well sealed and looked good, and the one time I tried it didn't come apart easily- so I left it. well, I did take it apart a few months ago and find some slight corrosion on a couple of pins. I know the current on a lot of these electronics is very small- so a tiny but of extra resistance can goof it all up. Careful cleaning with a fibreglass 'pen' made for such things and a healthy blast of ACF50--and the bike ran perfectly again and is still running great (I'm something like 315 hours now). It is probably time to pull it apart and blast it again. An idea to all, it may be a good idea to pull that connector apart and give it a careful clean/anti-corrosion treatment. Especially if you see odd running that doesn't seem ro have an easy solution. Mark BTW, I ride in a lot of water and mud.

I have a 'colourized' version someplace..

I have a diagram here- I just need to find it. I have a 74 Explorer that is wired up with no regulator or battery. Lights are not very good- but do work. I'll try to find the diagram. (might be the same as above?) mark

If you remove the cable at the clutch lever on the engine- then move the lever (have to use something to lever it)- does it come right back? could be too large bearing in the middle? (I would thing you would notice it didn't just fall in). I would probably pull the primary cover off and take a look- it isn't a big deal and then you will really know. Plus you could dismantle the clutch to inspect and make sure it is back together correctly etc.

I rode a trial, first in well over a year. I'm a novice, although tried intermediate last year with pretty good results. I wanted to get my head back in it, so did novice class. I got 1 point darn, one dumb dab (not a hard spot either) and wrecked probably the only perfect score I'll ever get ! HA! Loads of fun and the trusty OSSA ran great. The seat doesn't get in my way for how I ride- since I ride it like this so much, I'd rather know exactly what it is going to do rather than have to re-learn.

I bought the bike and the shock form Lewisport- I didn't event think of it! thanks mark

Who does Ohlins service in the States? Any recomendations? I have ave a bunch of hours on the rear damper and figured it is probably overdue. I don't have the tools to do it myself, although perhaps I should investigate that. mark

I'll try to come up with something better describing.

For me it has been worth it. but I broke the stock linkage twice and didn't want to do that again (plus easy lube) make sure they send a 90° zerk for the middle pin, the straight mine came with is inaccessible when on the bike. They are a thread pitch not avaliable locally for me (I live in a small town). I'd also recommend shimming and locktiting that middle pin, to make sure it doesn't come loose. mark

It is working well. I did have the middle rocker bolt come loose- so I shimmed it and re-locktited it to keep it form loose item again. Easy to lube and seems to be holding up well. Seems smoother than the factory, but I could be dreaming. mostly I didn't want to break it again and have to dismantle, lube and replace bushings less often. mark

Puget Sound Trialers also have vintage events, all north of you though. http://www.pugetsoundtrialers.com

I never pressure wash- but the riding I do does Basicly the same thing. It is pretty rare to not ride in a lot of mud. The linkage I bought came with zerk fittings, someone on here had fit them to the stock setup. But I wanted something more rugged than the original- so blew the big bucks for fhe titanium setup.

I've replaced loads of bushes, the swingarm pivot pins, bushes and seals and worn out the or pivots. I ride it a lot (I think I'm about 300 hours)- but I trail ride and only occasionally do a trial.

Yes, you need to take the wheel, swingarm and linkage all off. Then take the linkage apart (no need to remove damper) One reason I spent $$$ for the Ti linkage is it has zerk fittings and I can lube every ride. I ride in the mud/water a LOT and that trashed the bushings in a hurry. I got tired of taking it apart all The time. Plus I broke the linkage twice and this is guaranteed not to break. You can see a light mud ride in this picture.

It is pretty easy to pull the gearbox- might not be a bad idea to check it now.

I have an article on the Curnutts from about 1970. They used a floating mid valve, I don't think anyone else did. Seals are standard avalaible stuff, and they can still be sent in for rebuild. I talked to the guy that used to work with Charles (related also?) and he can even make them up. I am missing one form my GPII. (Long story, but I have it back) and need another. At a standstill they felt like they didn't have any rebound damping, but they worked wonderfully out riding. Way better than the Betors.

I had Curnutts on two of my old OSSAs (stiletto and GPII Phantom) For a MX/desert bike they are great. I'm not sure how well they would work for trials.

Yes- certainly look like Explorer forks. I changed mine to Marzocchi forks- much, much nicer. (Lewisport had a deal on some new ones) I've had mine apart, I don't recall any issue with the clickers. But they didn't do much either. One leg is compression, one is rebound. does it have an Ohlins on the rear?

Those look much like the forks from my Explorer. What does the slider look like?

Mike starts really well now 99% of the time. I fit a small Lithium batter that I activate with a momentary button. Hold it down and the fuel pump runs and ECU is 'awake'. Nice if you run out of fuel also. Yes. It does still require a healthy kick

If like mine, the TPS needs to be set and 'set to' the ECU. You need cables to do it. I run a one step hotter plug, seems to work much better. Where are you located?

I run mine to te handlebars- and still can get a bit of oil out of it after a long, high rpm hill (I trail ride mostly) I'm going to install a small tank with house out top and bottom, then put inline. I have a 2014 and run 450cc oil

If over full it can come out the breather hose. Even if correct 'new spec' amount, the breather hose needs to be extended.

It looks very complete. I ditched the Amal and put on an OKO from Mid-Atlantic Trials. Cheap and works wonderfully (kept the Amal in a box). If the engine/trans is good, then bearings, cables and perhaps sealing the fuel tank and could be a great runner. Mark http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/OSSA.html