lotus54

Did you check your crank seals when it was apart? I've had a couple of old OSSAs with bad crank seals, especially the dry side. Mark

As an original machine, I hope you can bring it back to life rather than part it. Everything is avaliable and are great vintage bike. I ride my 74 Explorer from time to time- it is very good, except the brakes! (I bought my Explorer from the original owner also)

It has been awhile- I probably installed the software first, then drivers, then plugged in cable. I'm running it with XP. Mark

From appearance, that USB connector looks the same as the cable I have. Finding the correct connectors ( without buying 1000 of them) has been more challenging.

The software is free for the OSSA. It is really something you need to have (or a local dealer has) to keep the bike running correctly. At least in my experience. It seems mine likes to have the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) 'reset' to the ECU about every 100 hours or so. I don't know if the TPS starts to drift, or perhaps other variables in the system (like connectors getting dirty and increasing resistance). Also the ECU stores errors, like high current draw for fuel pump (generally a sign the filter requires replacement). To properly change idle sped with stock throttle body you need the software/hardware (I have a BTWICE the olle body that allows idle speed adjustment anytime. I've never needed it, but figured if the bike had an issue way up in the mountains that feature could be well worth the cost) I really like the injection, but I aware of possible issues and required extra tools. Mark

Yes, we have been talking. Too bad I don't have a scope anymore...might be able to borrow a scope meter in a couple of weeks. I had a hard time actually buying the proper connectors. (Bring your bike over and we can ride too! - but they probably won't let you push the bike across- my Explorer is plated, so I could ride it on the ferry) Mark

How did you take it apart?

I ran the bike again, checking hoses and radiator to see if they all got hot. They did NOT! So I got a new waterpump, installed and all is good. It seemed to run 85-90c idling and reving on the stand. I did not check after riding more, but all seemed good. Mark

Just a note. The setup came with zerks, but the rocker middle 'joint' had a straight zerk and is jot accessible. the dealer made it good and I have a proper 90° zerk now. Thanks TTMoto

I have a little 'burble' at very small throttle openings I only have ever had if the play was really knackered or the TPS needed reset. (Runs great everywhere else and mixture appears great on the plug- running SSDT Hard map) So I decided it would be a good time to just check everything anyway ((290 hours). Reeds good, new sparking plug Idle right, TPS set to .6V and set to EC Air filter clean Cleaned sensor in lower airbox I did see a little corrosion on the ECU connections (dang it!). Attempting to clean well. That could be my issue. BUT I wanted to test the injector to see what the pattern looked like. When I do the injector test in the software, it just clicks the injector, the fuel pump is not running so no fuel comes out. Any ideas? Mark

Not exactly on topic- but does anyone have an explanation on what the different maps that are available do? Some seem self-explanatory, but others that have things the ++ at the end. Perhaps the 'road' 2nd map is extra rich?

What are others seeing as a 'up to full temp' coolant temperature in the software? I never really noticed before, but I was getting some off idle 'burbling' I've never gotten (except when the TPS needs setting) and thought perhaps it was goofed up. I saw 130C - fan would come on and go off, no boiling or any other issues. I didn't measure the actual coolant temp in the radiator, but it certainly seemed normal. Does it really run that hot? (I have not found anything in the manuals that state running temp yet) Mark

Two of my vintage OSSAs had bad crank seals. Easy to replace once you get the primary drive apart"

Ok- not wonderful, but actually quite functional. I have not added the taillamp/lisc plate holder yet. I'm going to use one like on my AJP. I may try another slightly different method- once piece sides and weld the top on instead. (maybe I'll get some more practice welding sheet aluminum and it will look better also)

Certainly the software is avaliable, getting the cables is more difficult right now it seems. I got some from Trials and Tribulations that wokrs great. What is your location?

I have an OKO on my 74 Explorer (same as MAR), on a 72 MAR I had and even on a 200 GasGas EC. They work very well and great price. The OSSA kits from MidAtlantic were complete and easy. Sorry, can't help a lot on your Mikuni, just the usual. Figure if rich or lean, and adjust appropriate circuit to suit.

Here it is in progress. I'm not done yet, and I think I can make it look a lot nicer before I'm done, BUT I've never made anything out of sheet aluminum before, and taught myself TIG (me ell, sort of). My biggest problem is feeding the rod. I don't have the knack of sliding it through my fingers so get all goofed up after I'd fed some in. Oh- plus I don't know what I'm doing! HA! But it is light and actually pretty sturdy. I'm thinking some vinyl sheet will make it look better.

Certainly! But cut me slack for being a TIG neophyte. (I did weld some aluminum cans together, but it was pretty ugly!)

Since there doesn't seem to be anymore rear mudguards or side panels anywhere around right now- I'm fabricating a once pice setup from aluminum. I've never done this sort of thing in aluminum (I have in fibreglass)- so,it is sort of a learning process. I made up a template, then cut the three pieces from aluminum sheet. Now I'm welding the side panels to the mudguard. They both use the two side screws by the end of the seat, and overlap. Might not be the best looking (at least this first try)- but I'm hoping will work well. My mudguard broke and I have it pieced together (plus a new spare, but don't want to waste it) The bike is just so darn fun- I sure hope they really do start producing again. But I'm preparing to keep it going myself it need be. Mark

Since I will flush the old and install new lube evey ride I don't think it makes so much difference anymore.

I've been using a moly high pressure grease, I used to use a silicon with Teflon grease, but this seems to hold up a lot better and repel water better.

Took the Explorer out yesterday, the new linkage worked great. I'll give it some grease to clean out any gunk and will be ready to go. Expensive, but a great setup. Mark

There is nothing on the OSSA web site (even 'news' seems to be gone) and I asked some people that really should know--head the rumours but nothing positive. Is there something more than just a rumour? (I would really like it to be true- and certainly could be- but I've heard a lot of things...)

Correct- drains from top to bottom- wt breather hose normally would not move fuel (but probably will have some fuel in it when both tanks are full. Yes, the fuel cap is awful.

The vacuum I mentioned was only to assure all the air was out. Normally the fuel will push the air up through yet breather hose into the upper tank- that means the lower is full (no vacuum under normal operation) On mine that part you mentioned leaked- so I tightened it up put some safety wire on the hose. Sounds to me as if there is either a bad , or the fuel sensor is bad. Yes, I think you could send the ECU and throttle body in for a pretty close setup (and update firmware) Of course it is better to do it in the bike. You could,measure the resistance across the TPS now. Then try adjusting the idle and see how it is. Not the right way to do it- but if you measure first, you can always set it back. Yes, I recall now your location etc. The system is pretty simple, but really wants to be set up correctly to work right. When correct, it will fire up in one or two kicks from cold, idle perfectly right from cold and run cleanly all the way up. Mark