lotus54

I have all the replacement parts, but I'm working on a new design that will allow zerk greasing and (hopefully) needle bearings. Plus I'm looking into more robust material since I've broken two dogbones and a rocker. (The Explorer is a bit heavier, plus I wear a pack, plus I need to loose 15lbs). If you have any interest - PM me and I'll keep you in the loop. No clue on cost or weight at this point, (I guess with enough $$ weight could go down). I don't hear many people complaining, so it must be the use I give it. I keep the bushings well lubed and replaced. (Ok- the first broken dogbone probably was my fault) Mark

I forgot, you can get a 'wash kit' from the KTM dealer that has a plug for the quick disconnect fitting that is in the main line between the tanks.

If someone sees a used Termi for sale at a good price, please let me know. (I can't afford a new one!)

I'm guessing a wire jacket has been rubbed off and it is grounding. No float, but perhaps some corrosion could cause issues. I can't remebr offhand if you can unplug from the sensor- but if so try that first. I don't find it all that useful- I've had it come on when I had loads of fuel left. The trick is to make sure you get both tanks full. A couple of ways to do that- one is to pull the breather hose off the bottom tank, fill until fuel comes out. Other is to fill it, then ride the bike around a bit, with loads of bouncing to get any air pockets out. I carry a litre of fuel along on lots of rides- even though I've only needed it on one very long ride. I've gotten 60 miles easily before- but since no way to see how much is left... Also, make sure your TPS has been set, and I do it evey 100 hours or so. If the bike starts to run a bit rich, that is the first sign. (At least on mine). I'm pretty picky on how it runs, I don't like the 'burble' off idle and whe it is right it runs nice and clean.

I have done a number of novice and some intermediate on my OSSA Explorer. Of course it is much lighter and more narrow focused than the Randonee. Heck- just go do it and have fun.

That is not good (missing bolt) Are you referring to the two that hold the throttle plate to the throttle shaft? If that is gone, I'd see if it is sitting on he reed valves (if you are lucky) Getting the reed block off is a bit tricky for a college of the bolts. I have the BTWICE throttle body in mine, nicely nade and allows higher idle without resetting TPS. (I've never needed to do that yet)

Yes, put a light on the other side of the tank/screw. Use a thin screwdriver to hold it toward the front. ( the light will make it a lot easier to see where the screw hold is located) I'm looking into putting. 'pop-pin' instead for a quick release.

The lower (main) tank has a pretty phoney setup for venting - well in my opinion. It can work, but certainly could be a lot better. See my other post how I had to doctor mine up to stop leaking. I think I glued it Into place finally. I don't like the top tank fuel cap either. I've lost it a couple of times and it tends to leak. I finally put part of a nitrile glove to seal it, and ran a 'T' with a one way breather. That works pretty well. I may be that way in July, if you havnt figured it by then I'll try to bring a computer and cables to check it out. The newer software works better, but there are two Versions of hardware. The older ones won't take the new software. I think Lewisport had ECUs now and that could be something for the future.

Yes, as loonal describes. That lower one should not leak- I had to do some work to mine to make it not leak, and safety wire the hose on.

Don't forget to check with Adrian at Lewisport http://www.lewisportusa.com Phone call seems most effective. Mark

It is a bolt on, no need to bleed. I had to make a special wrench to take the bolt off- or pull the swingarm and service all the bushings, change the brake pedal at the same time. I just took and old socket and welded a rod in the appropriate place for a tool.

Email Trials and Tribulations and see if they can still get it. Otherwise modding your existing wheels seems the best bet to me.

The only way I know is to connect computer and read it. What is you location?

Dang- I was out riding today with buddies, hopped a gully and promptly broke the 'rocker' of the linkage. The front broke the bottom part right off. (Pics after I dismantle) No fun- Fortunatly it wasn't too far from a road, so I could out a stick between the swingarm and muffler. That way the bike would roll. I thought I had another, but I sent it back since I didn't need it (dumb). I think. Lewissport has some (mine is a 2014, but an early one so the middle pin is smaller than the later ones that have a 20mm pin. But that is not the place it broke, rather the front pivot of rocker- which I don't think changed.

That makes sense to me. I found some 6mm zerk fittings with a long straight thread, I think I'll try those and just leave them in place. At least that part will be easy! Thanks for the info Mark

So you drilled holes that go in the middle of the steel pivot- that goes into the hole that the retaining bolts screw into? (dogbones) I would think a grease fitting could be left to retain the dogbone that way also. (Assuming I could find a straight thread fitting with long enough threads) But maybe you Are talking about the lower pivot?

Yes, someone did fit needle bearings, but unless it has zerks for greasing every ride or figure out a good seal setup- that doesn't seem to do much good. Everything is pretty tight for clearance, so getting a permanent mount zerk could be a challenge.

Where I ride water and mud will get in there no matter what. I've serviced them loads of times- every time they are full of gunk. (Just did it again today) I've had to replace pin and parts due to wear, the bushings a bunch of times. (I bought a box of them). I'm sure fine for trials- but it is very common for my typical ride to be many, many hours- and quite often. I don't really want or pull it apart every ride or two. It is also pretty rare to not get Into loads of mud. That has been my experience anyway.

Almost my only compliant about my Explorer is the rear linkage. It is probably just fine for most trials- but I ride it a lot and in a lot of mud and water. Those bushings are ok if you take the thing apart a lot- but I'd rather have something a little more robust and with zerk fittings. Anyone looked at coming up with something else? Or no issue for anyone else? Bearings and zerks would be nice. Even just zerks would be ok, since I could hit it every ride. Mark

I can get you the software.

from the service manual (not sure if accurate- although matches with above post) My Explorer has those truncated wires going to turn sigs, horn, meter etc.

I pulled the engine, replaced the pump (will setup the original with new pump and filter for next time) Bought a tool for the connectors at NAPA - just a slight mod to work. I pulled the head, since I'm almost 300 hours I figured it may be good to see what it looks like. The cylinder looks like it has 10 hours on it- all cross-hatching still visible, no scoring, piston looks like new (from the port) I decided to leave the cylinder on this time- it just looks too good! No carbon buildup in the exhaust, very minimal buildup on the piston and head. I'm pretty I pressed. My KTM 300 certainly didn't look this good after much less hours. And most of the time I didn't run it any harder- maybe less. (Those have loads of power, too much for the types of trails I like the most, which looks like an intermediate trials section). I wish it had zerk fitting for the suspension bushings - but certainly a really well out together machine. Hope they come back. Oh yeah, I weighed the engine, about 34 lbs (15.5 kilos) Mark

I've worked on carbs for almost 50 years, all sorts of vehicles. I like them. But I find the OSSA EFI is working better than any motorcycle carb I've had, street, dirt, trials. Much less maintenance and better reliability and running. Just my experiences. You think I'd never have to adjust a carb in 280 hours? Or clean it? A good carb can work pretty well- but the EFI is better. I hate cables. But I also certainly don't feel you should listen to my experience - except maybe to say some have had good results. Edit: Yes, replacement parts on the EFI are more expensive than likely replacements on most carbs. For me it has been worth it- obviously not for everyone. I've seen more reliable, better performance than any carb I've had (including SmartCarb)

Better to go back to Drum brakes. If you bend one of those you are in deep trouble. Yeah, love those cables. I've never had a cable break out in the woods someplace... Lots better than these dumb reliable hydraulics. I have a 2014 OSSA Explorer and a 1974 OSSA explorer. The old bike handles great, suspension even works darn well (modern shocks). Brakes? (I think it has some). Clutch- wow is it stiff (better ton slip it too much or you will be replacing it). Engine? Very, very nice, but those old air cooled bikes are certainly noisy!

Yes, it helps if it is just loose enough to move, but still pretty snug. The good thing is it doesn't change very often at all.