lotus54

You need to verify the reading on the throttle, especially if you adjusted it. I recall 0.6 volts? But please check on that fist since I my memory may be wrong. I'll try to check. After that is adjusted propery, THEN set to ECU. There are instructions in the service manual. Mark

Possibly an issue with the USB driver not installing correctly? I use this on an old XP laptop I only use for diagnostics ( my SAAB and Ducati stuff requires old stuff)- I have not tried it with newer. But generally the new win OS seems to handle the USB Better. Look in your device manager and see if you can find the device

I've been filtering the fuel for a year or so before putting in the tanks. But certainly could have gotten stuff from the pumps before that. Thanks Adrian, I'll call Monday. Mark

Has anyone replaced the fuel filter? (Modern OSSA) I'm getting a 'fuel pump over current' which on every other bike I've ever had means a partially plugged fuel filter. I believe it is more time consuming than popping out the gearbox. Bike still runs great- I wouldn't have known but I put the software on to check things out. (Around 270 hours) Mark

I just hooked it up to my bike. Connect the cable (I have a small battery I use to power it up when not running also) Start up the K-Scan software. For me it hooks right up and starts reading. Then you can reset TPS, adjust base mixture, read and clear trouble codes etc. To load a new map, you use the other software. I was pretty cautious doing so- but didn't brick it or anything! I have a number of maps, but probably all the same ones that come on the various USB drives - I think I downloaded theses from the Cable website. Very easy.

You need to out the software on the computer. Start the software, then pick ECU I'd better look again, I havnt done it in a bit. But I'm cleaning up the. Bike now and replacing the sparking plug- easy to connect the computer and remind myself.

I've loaded new maps with no issue. I've also reset TPS and even tried changing base mixture ( I noted where I started and also used an exhaust analyzer)

I have these on two of my old OSSAs (and modern GasGas) Work great and come darn close for jetting etc. http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/OSSA.html

Every ride I start out with a coupe, of things to warm up. Ride to a stop- squat to compress forks, let out clutch and apply just a bit of throttle, wheelie and try to place the front tyre exactly where I want. Pretty easy, and if you proactive on flat ground you will pick it right up. Start with very small wheelies.

I also have a 72 MAR with a Pioneer engine (up for sale) OKO carb and runs really well. (Have to ditch those bars and rear dampers)

Back when I brought my 1974 Phantom home- new. (Wish I still had it) 1976 1/2 GPII Phantom, almost new. I now have it back. But a total restoration project. I'm still looking for an engine. Here is what the bike looked like when I got it back.

Best way to test is with a 2-stroke leak down tester. But yes, if clutch side it would lower your trans fluid level- although it wouldn't take much oil to make a huge mess.

Not a rebuild- but I ditched the Mikuni on my MAR and installed and OKO from Mid-Atlantic Trials http://www.usa-oko.com I have one on my 74 Explorer, 72 MAR and 2000 GasGas 200ec. They are working really well (low cost also) Mark

Yes, working for me- but didn't earlier. Probably something goofed up. It doesn't seem to slow other companies (and governments) that are broke down very much. (Still hoping they come back-but who knows?)

I think I have an Explorer wiring diagram. Let me find it and post it.

I'm very happy with the clutch on the 2014. I'm very much a trials novice, although I place very well in our club events. I do best when it is slimy/slippery and rooty. Since I ride that all the time. Plus if really nasty I can just sit down to get great traction and paddle if I need to. A 3 is better an a 5. I have a LOT more experience getting max traction on hills sitting. I've been working on doing it standing- since control is so much better. I got pinch flats on the front tube setup when I when below about 6psi. I certainly recommend the Tubliss system. Just watch the install video a few times and take your time installing. I can ride with the tyre completely flat and it won't come off the rim. Where are you located? From the experience I've had on my bike, once it is setup right- it only needs attention every 100 hours or so. Easy to update the ECU to a newer map, and Lewisport is doing a ECU exchange to the newer model now I believe. I fit the BTWICE throttle body, that allows idle speed adjustment without changing the ECU. I've never needed to do it, but if the bike is having any issues being able to change it out on the trail could save a ride. Your idle should be about 1600 (well, that is memory, could be 1300). If sounds link you made much closer to Lewisport, but I'm happy. To help out if you are anywhere close to me or are on a riding trip up this way and want do a setup and ride day (I'm very reasonable cost). I was working on a LithIon batt setup that would either run be connected for a set time (say two minutes) plus automatically connect when running- so it would charge also. But mine has been starting so well with the easy start I haven't finished the project. Adrian said mine started 2nd kick out of the crate when new (first 2014 Explorer in the States) I also swapped the rear brake out for the TR version (perhaps yours already has it) Mine came with the same caliper on the rear as on the front- with a larger disc and horrible steel mount that would get hit by rocks, bend and mess up the brake action. The TR brake setup works great. Mark

The Explorer tach/speedo is a TrailTech Vapor.

Looks good! I have one of he BTWICE plates, similar to this one. The only issue I've had is catching my MX boot on he outside edge of the plate when shifting up. Most people probably won't have that issue- but I have big feet and not very precise I guess.

The Explorer has the same frame and engine as the TR. The forks and rear damper are cheaper and nowhere near as good. The Explorer ca be converted to a Full TR ( well, if you upgrade suspension) in about 15 minutes. The subframe with aux tank, seat, rear fender comes right off. The 2014 Explorer has tube type tyres front and rear. So you can't go too low on pressure without getting pinch flats. I tried the front with low pressure, but got pinch flats. If your Explorer is tube type also, I recommend fitting the Tubliss system, ditching those horrible Pirelli trials tyres and fit some Michelin X-11 Tubless (if you can find any). The IRC radial works pretty well also - I have not tried the New Dunlop. I have over 230 hours on the X-11s so far and still work pretty well with very low pressure (5/3 F/R) I didn't find the stock suspension had much in the way of adjustability. The forks only changed very minimally with the clickers and the rear only has preload. I fit an Ohlins rear and Marzhocci front- it is a LOT better for trail riding. There are probably cheaper options than the Ohlins. I also fit some Twisted Engineering flex bars- it really helps for trail riding when you have mediocre suspension. Not as good for trials, but I did learn I was not preloading with my legs as I though I was. I understand the later clutches are much nicer than th early ones. Mine is great. I run a Clake 2 also, which has assisted clutch. A small Lith-Ion battery can really make the starting easier and is super small. Cheap too. The easiest way is to just wire in a momentary switch, hit it when starting. Also make sure the TPS is correct. I run a hotter sparking plug- I watched the the temperature on it carefully and it is just fine for me use,and setup. A dirty plug makes it a LOT harder to start. I don't ride trials very often, it is more fun for me to just trail ride. But the trails I like are much like the intermediate Trials sections I've ridden (or harder). I get more riding time in and I don't really care about competition. (All just my opinion of course) I have around 260 hours on my Explorer, I like it more all the time!

The OSSA runs better top to bottom then any bike I've ever owned or ridden in the last 48 years of riding. No issue with power, although the early ones without Easystart were finicky. Probably better with a larger batt. It works very, very well. Could it be better ? Certainly. Wait... I forgot. OSSAs are crap and the worst bike ever made. WHat was I thinking?

But can you adjust you pilot jet, main jet, needle, throttle cutaway in a few minutes ! The FI allows that Plus I've yet to need to adjust it for elevation, temp or humidity Just reset the TPS every 100 hours or so.

Email them and ask to get one. That's what I did

Try Trials and Tribulations in England. That is where I got mine. Works great

If Adrian doesn't have one, try 'Trials and Tribulations' in England. I could be persuaded to make some... Mine has been wonderful (2014)