lotus54

I found a KTM kit that includes a plug that snaps into the bike side connector and a nice rubber tube seal that goes over the one that is with the tank. Super easy and will ensure stuff stays clean. I'll post up part number- my KTM dealer knew exactly what I needed (didn't even need to look it up) and had it on the shelf (PA Power, Port Angeles)

Here is what I got from a guy that pulled his. (From ossaform.com) http://ossaforum.com/index.php?topic=27.0 #1 - if you are pulling the tranny - IT MUST BE IN GEAR. Otherwise something very bad will happen. Not sure what, but everybody says this. #2 - when removing the tranny make sure to remove the clutch fixer nut. This is NOT listed in the PDF from OSSA Canada. The nut is a LEFT HAND THREAD and is found inside the clutch housing. You have to hold the opposite side of the clutch fixer rod, by inserting a torx in the opposite side of the engine (ever wonder what that little breather hose is just ahead of the engine chain sprocket? it allows air to escape from the plunger of the clutch, but also allows you to insert a torx to hold the clutch fixer rod) #3 - when pulling the clutch cover a thrust washer over the kick start will pop off and get inside the engine. If you are removing the tranny - no big deal. But if you are just removing the clutch, its best to lean the bike way over towards you so it falls on the ground, and not in the engine. #3b - the clutch salve cylinder thrust bearing and washer will probably fall off too. #4 - if you do anything to the tranny you will probably have to adjust the gear selector "shift spring regulator". The GasGas clutch video shows how to do this:

Here is the easy start on my 2014 And all the stuff behind the headlamp, no way to fit this there.

I understand Lewisport is carrying them. Maybe give them a call? Idle on mine seems low, but it never, ever dies.

It is darn crowded behind the headlamp- the Easystart on mine looks larger than your pic. I'll take a pic of it, it is probably 3" deep

My 2-stroke barely smokes at all. It runs very, very clean. 100:1 oil ratio,semi direct EFI...almost no smoke at all. I can't handle being behind a rich 4-stroke either. Still prefer the 2-stoke. Mark

The easy start on my. 2014 is much larger. What did you use to plug the fuel quick disconnect to keep it filling with dirt? I was thinking if sourcing another to use as a 'dummy' that would be plugged off. I pulled the subframe/tank from my yesterday- yes, only. A few minutes. The existing cables look long enough I could maybe put the Easystart on the handlebar mount or something.

I'm doing the same thing. Resurrecting a TLR- for now I won't bother with lights etc- later I want to add lightweight lights etc. Reading the schematic from the manual I see it as follows. The white has a coil in the alternator, it say it is the lighting coil- although i havnt gone through the diagram to verify I'm correct. It goes to a regulator (but no rectifier). Looks a bit strange the way it is going to the earth side of the headlamp bulb...so maybe I full of it, I don't see where leaving it open would be an issue, no circuit- no current flow. BUT maybe there is something I'm not seeing (MaxBikes post above leads me to believe I'm right). Yellow and Pink wires go to the regulator/rectifier. This runs DC stuff. Again, I don't see where leaving it open will hurt anything. Open= no circuit= no current. Black goes to the CDI unit. That's it from the alternator. BUT there are two more wires that come from that area- the pulse generator (triggers the CDI) (green/white and blue/yellow)- they change colours. Those certainly need to be connected to the CDI And like mentioned the black/white is grounded to kill the engine. Sure seems the way to go from what I see. If I'm wrong, please correct me- mine runs fine like this now- but I have not tested to see that any damage was not done. Again, I don't see why it would. Mark

Nothing scary, just keeping 'in the lines' and not loosing balance.

The 2014 is different, the box under the seat does it all (so I understand). Guess I'll have to see where it could be located if I ever do it. I'm not sure where they put it in the 2014 TR model. The rather high cost of the plastic is the issue after that! Be nice to find some used stuff, but probably not very likely, Isn't the stock lower' fuel cap,glued in on the Explorer? Maybe it is just sealer I see...

Mine doesn't see to start well without it. But I'll give it a go and see how it is. Was there anyplace to put it if you want to install the Easystart? (I think they changed it for 2014 also, it is energized with the kill button)

I fit the DID narrow to my Explorer. The original chain was junk- I ride in the mud a lot and often 40-50 miles of tight single track on a ride. Maybe loose a little power, but it has so much less than my 300 KTM that I didn't notice it. If you use a rivet link I think it would fit right in. The clip link is wider than the rest of the chain by a fair amount. I didn't have a rivet link, so I opened up the chain tensioner block a little- works great! I wish it had an enclosed chain...but nobody does that anymore.

How long did it take you? The 2014 model has the Easystart box under the seat - that would have to be moved someplace, I don't think your model has that- yes?

I had never even been to a trial, let alone ride one- but I've been riding for many years- but MX or enduro bikes until pretty recently. I went to give one a go- on my OSSA Explorer (trials bike with a full seat and fuel tank). It was super fun! The sections were quite similar to trails I ride all the time- but of course when out trail riding I am just trying to Make it and not fall down. I do try to keep feet on the pegs, but that is really because of much better control. I had no idea of rules or scoring or anything. But the first section I tired I cleaned it! Not to say I did that on the rest, but felt pretty good, learned a lot about places I need to work on (after 46 years of riding you would think I could do a basic turn). I need to work on keeping my feet on the pegs rather than taking a dab when I don't really need to. My #1 rule when out trail riding is to not fall down, I need to try a little harder to just keep them on the pegs! I highly encourage going- everyone was friendly and helpful, I just said I knew nothing! Lots of good tips. (I did win the class, which was very surprising to me since I didn't think I rode that well!) Mark

I don't know much of anything about trials- I only just did my first one. But I started learning to cover the front brake all the time (and my LHRB) on my KTM 300 enduro bike. For awhile if felt really uncomfortable and unnatural to me. But once I got used to it, I found I had better throttle control- the finger on the brake gave me a good reference point to turning the throttle. My 300 has a LOT more power, and I set it up for loads of bottom end, so delicate control on the throttle is needed if you don't want to end up in the trees. Give it a try while thinking of reference- see if that makes any difference. I've never heard anyone say anything about that before, so maybe I'm full of it and it's just me.

I have about 50 hours on my 2014 Explorer- the issues I've had are a broken chain tensioner spring ($5) and the wiring loom by the steering head was tie wrapped too tightly from the factory, breaking a turn signal wire. My bike is plated, so I need to keep those working. The factory chain is junk- and the rear master fills with mud. But I ride in the mud a lot and my KTM went through wheel bearings also (no, I don't pressure wash). At least I could buy off the shelf ones cheap. Very happy with the bike!

I was told you could buy the cables/software (I was given a price) - but it was quite expensive.

I've had great results with my 2014. From what I read, they did address issues from the older bikes. But all well known and upgradable mostly. Mark

I'd probably locktite them also. I do everything else on bikes...

I welded a rod on a socket. That worked very well (swapped the phony stock Explorer pedal for the TR280 one) I wouldn't mine the setup - if they included a wrench with the bike. Sure no need to supply major special tools, but removing the brake pedal can be a fairly common need. Mark

For the air filter, there is a kit available from OSSA to make the air filter change a snap. Newer bikes come stock with it (I think from 2012?) My Explorer has been delightful and no issues. It seems that early issues have been addressed and solved. I'd post more, but I've already gone on and on in other threads. Very happy owner!

I have a 2014 Explorer. The main part is the same as the trials (plus subframe, seat, extra fuel tank and a bit firmer suspension) It is wonderful! Like mentioned, the engine has very controllable progressive power. Mark

The Explorer has tube type rims. I am running the Tubliss system, so I can run Tubless Tyres. The best part? If I get a puncture, the tyre will NOT come off the rim. Mark

Thanks Steve, I didn't see any class II hitch carriers there... Guess I'll make my own, or keep using the trailer... For shorter runs I just ride the bike, but wouldn't be very fun for a 150 mile road ride! Heading up in the hills shortly. COLD!!! (Well, for whimpy guys that grew up around here, where below 40f is cold)

Thanks for the ideas. cooper won't ship to the states or klipinhoff. Looks like I'll just need to build my own.